Another Dreamy Day With Top Bike Tours Portugal: Carrapateira to Sagres

While every day of my Top Bike Tours Portugal adventure was dreamy, the days I enjoyed most were the ones when we arrived at our destination with enough time to simply be there—to wander, explore on our own, stroll along the beach, surf, swim, or just immerse ourselves in the local vibe.

For that reason and others, the second-to-last day of my biking tour stands out as one of my favorites. The morning began with a long, challenging climb, which was rewarded with a cruise down smooth roads and along scenic, coastal gravel paths. With only 20 miles to cover, it was an easy day that left us with plenty of energy and time to enjoy our stops along the way, and to relax by the sea in Sagres that afternoon and evening.

It certainly didn’t hurt that our accommodations for the night were at the 4-star Memmo Baleeira. This upscale, resort-style property is typically reserved for those who purchase the premium package. Not sure how I lucked out, but it was an unexpected and very welcome surprise.

Today’s Scenic and Historical Stops

Cape St. Vincent (Cabo de São Vicente): This extreme southwestern point of mainland Europe was known as the legendary “end of the world” during the Age of Discoveries as it was the last explored point-the edge that dropped into the Atlantic and the unknown. 

Indeed, ancient civilizations considered this windswept promontory a holy gathering place for their gods and the Romans referred to it as the Promontorium Sacrum (Sacred Promontory) or “the end of the world.” The name Sagres itself is derived from the Latin word sacrum (meaning “holy” or “sacred).

Farol do Cabo de São Vicente Set on a dramatic cliff presiding  ~ 250 feet above the restless and unruly Atlantic, thelighthouse (farol ) here is one of the most powerful lighthouses in Europe.

The Fortress of Sagres

Featuring Renaissance-Mannerist architecture, the impressive, photogenic 15th-century Fortress of Sagres was commissioned by Prince Henry the Navigator. Damaged in the 1775 Lisbon earthquake, it was rebuilt in the late 18th century and underwent major renovations in 1960s, 1990s, and 2010.

Staying at the Memmo Baleeira was a premium experience indeed — beautiful room and pool with sea views. And I took full advantage – went for a late afternoon swim in the pool, a sunset walk on the beach where I had it all to myself. While the water was calm and flat, I learned that Sagres is known for having some of the best and most consistent surfing in Europe because the peninsula juts out, capturing good waves regardless of wind direction.

After my stroll on the beach, I enjoyed dinner alfresco with a sea view. The owner introduced himself and treated me to shots of a potent local liquor to celebrate the restaurant’s recent opening. Oddly, I can’t recall the name of the alcohol…lol.

At the end of the day, I fell into my luxurious bed at the Memmo Baleeira and had my best sleep of the week. In the morning, I awoke well-rested to watch the sunrise over the sea as the swallows swooped and the seagulls called to each other.

It was bittersweet to realize that today would be the final day of our incredible bike tour. Usually, by the end of a touring adventure, I’m ready to move on. Not this time. I would have been perfectly happy to continue the journey through the country with Top Bike Tours of Portugal.

Happy adventures!

A Royal Treat: The Ben Lemond Track & Queenstown, South Island, NZ

Ben Lemond Track—Choose your adventure

Tiki Trail/ Base of Gondola Start to Summit Distance rt from Tiki Trail: ~9.7 miles Elevation Gain: ~4,786Top of Skyline Gondola Head Start to Summit Distance rt: ~7.1 miles Elevation Gain: ~3,310 ft

Difficulty: Moderate/difficult, depending on your fitness level. (AllTrails rates it as strenuous/advanced/highly challenging.)

Of my two weeks of adventures in New Zealand, this was one of my favorite days—and easily one of my favorite days anywhere. Simply EPIC from start to finish.

After hiking the Marian Lake Track and Key Summit the day before, I spent the night in a small, somewhat dilapidated motel in the scenic, lakeside village of Manapouri. While the accommodation left much to be desired, falling asleep and waking up to the spectacular view below more than made up for it—a fortuitous start to a day that would prove exceptional both on and off the trail.

Queenstown, the South Island’s Adventure Mecca

Here, every step you take leads to breathtaking scenery and an exhilarating experience. Set against the dramatic backdrop of the jagged peaks of The Remarkables mountain range with the shimmering waters of Lake Wakatipu (NZ’s longest lake – 50 miles long) reflecting the surrounding beauty, Queenstown is arguably one of the most stunning destinations in New Zealand and a gateway to some of the country’s most memorable outdoor experiences—including the spectacular Ben Lomond Track.

Whether you’re hiking alpine ridges, carving down mountain bike trails, riding gondolas, the luge, the Vortex Slide, or the Zipline, or mixing it up, your outdoor bliss awaits in Queenstown. The town itself doesn’t disappoint either—vibrant streets lined with galleries, restaurants, shops, and gorgeous boutique hotels like the one I stayed at, The Central Hotel, where the perks included a complimentary bottle of local wine, snacks, and continental breakfast.

While Kiwis, (as New Zealanders call themselves), may dismiss Queenstown as overly touristy, its popularity is clearly well-earned. (Also, in my opinion, the “touristy” vibe in NZ feels far more subtle than the US, and generally, crowds are smaller. than what you encounter stateside.)

A Queenstown Must Do: The Breathtaking & Ravishingly Beautiful Ben Lemond Track

There are two ways to access the Ben Lomond Track: hike up the Tiki Trail from the base of the Skyline Gondola, or give yourself a head start by riding the gondola to the top.

Obviously, starting from the Tiki Trail adds both distance and elevation to your adventure—about 2.6 miles round trip and 1,476 feet of additional climbing. Naturally, I took the Tiki Trail. Was it worth it? Yes, and no.

On the plus side, it added to the workout challenge, which I rarely resist. From a scenery perspective, it didn’t add much, as much of the trail winds through the forest, with the best views near the top.

If you have the time and enjoy earning every foot of elevation, the Tiki Trail is worthwhile. But if the Ben Lomond hike itself feels like enough of a challenge—or you’re simply short on time—take the Skyline Gondola.

The Ben Lemond Track is well-marked, easy to follow, and easy on the feet, until the last rocky mile or so to the summit. Great for trail running. The mountain bike trails are separate (45 mountain biking trails and 10 e-bike trails), so no close encounters with bikes (thankfully), but it’s fun to watch them flying down the ridgelines from a distance. As you climb the ridgeline, the incline is consistent, but mostly gentle/moderate until that last mile. Your reward is expansive views of the dazzling Lake Wakatipu (NZ’s longest lake – 50 miles long) and Queenstown far below, and a stunning panoramic view of it all at the top. While the summit is only 5,735 feet in elevation, it is considered alpine as it’s above treeline, completely exposed, and subject to severe, volatile weather. (Be prepared and check the weather forecast in advance.) I’ve discovered that many alpine hikes in New Zealand offer plenty of elevation gain without the altitude factor—same magnificent alpine hiking and scenic rewards, but far less arduous than hikes at higher elevations. Super fun and doable for hiking, trail running, and biking, but not helpful if you need altitude training or will be competing at altitude.

While not an official “Great Walk” of NZ, the Ben Lemond Track is a GREAT hike—in my opinion, it’s a “must do” if you’re in Queenstown.

So many adventures, so little time! Definitely something for everyone here! Whatever Queenstown adventures you choose, be sure to work up a good appetite, and then treat yourself to the lavish all-you-can-eat feast (lunch or dinner) at the Stratosfare Restaurant. Enjoy the incredible views, live music, and decadent delights.

Pro Tip: Reservations are required at the Stratosfare Restaurant, but it’s 100% worth checking in to see if they have last-minute availability. You just may get lucky like I did!

Skyline Gondola Views

Happiness is a challenging hike followed by an indulgent feast, a sunset gondola ride, and a cozy bed with a welcoming bottle of local wine and snacks—all with spectacular views! This was truly an epic day for me in NZ and in my life!

Happy Trails! Stay tuned for more NZ adventures.

The Waitomo Cave Experience—Wet & Wild Subterranean Adventure, North Island, NZ

Disclaimer: none of the photos were taken by me, as we had to leave our cameras behind. In hindsight, that was for the best—having both hands free was essential given the slippery, wet, uneven, rocky terrain, and the crawling, wading, and swimming sections.

First Some Cave Context

Years ago, while traveling in Thailand, I explored a couple of miles of the Chiang Dao Cave—fascinating and not especially sketchy (unless you count the thousands of bats and the one tight crawl space).

Then, a year later, along with the rest of the world, I followed the nine-day saga of the boys’ soccer team trapped in a similar cave after monsoon rains flooded it. I remember thinking, “Yeah… I probably won’t be going into a cave again anytime soon.

Well, nearly ten years later, here I am at the Waitomo Cave Experience. My travel partner chose this one, and I wasn’t about to be a spoil sport. So, I wrestled myself into a thick, heavy wetsuit, squeezed on the white rubber “go-go” boots, and trudged off in slow motion with the rest of our oversized sloth of a group, crossing the oddly undulating pasture—hinting at the contours of the cave below—toward the woods.

At the edge of the woods, we climbed down a steel ladder, descending into the pitch-black, damp abyss of the Okohua Cave, and the adventure began… We switched on our headlamps—bright third eyes piercing the darkness and, just as often, blinding one another.

After casually warning us to stay put if anything happened to him, our guide led us into the narrow, watery “slot canyons” of the 30-million-year-old limestone grotto.

“Watch your head!” “Watch your footing!” And “Hands off!” the dripping stalactites and other stalagmite formations. It was slow going.

We stopped several times to turn off our headlamps and gaze up at the dark “sky” bespeckled with tiny lights from thousands of bioluminescent Arachnocampa luminosa (glow worm) larvae. (“Better worms than bats, I say.”) It was a lovely sight indeed.

Later, we’d enter a canyon with deep water where inner tubes were waiting for us for a cruise down glow worm alley. It was magical and mesmerizing. The once chatty group fell silent in awe.

Photo Credits: The Waitomo Cave Experience website.

If you’re slightly claustrophobic like me, adding water to the equation amplifies it…as do the low ceilings and narrow tunnels. Of course, learning that you’ll be underground for over 3 hours and knowing that you can’t simply, easily, and quickly exit also contributes to that constricting feeling…Not to mention the heavy wetsuit weighing you down…

As a yogi, I practiced my relaxation breathing and tried to stay in the moment. There were a couple of opportunities to bypass the tighter, belly crawling, face-first-into-the murky water routes, but, well, where’s the fun in that?

It was an amazing adventure for sure, but I probably won’t be going into another cave anytime soon…(Yeah, I know…)

Happy Adventuring!

Terrific Tama Lakes Track, Tongariro National Park, North Island, NZ

Distance: ~11 Miles

Elevation Gain: ~1,800 ft

Difficulty: Easy to Moderate (depending on your fitness level). The trail is so gradual, I didn’t notice the elevation gain until the last half-mile climb up loose, rocky scree to Upper Tama Lake.

When we learned that the Tongariro Alpine Crossing—widely considered the park’s top hike—was closed due to high winds and poor weather, the Tama Lakes Track became our backup plan. It didn’t disappoint. (AllTrails rates it #3 behind both the Tongariro Alpine Crossing #1 and #2 Taranaki Falls. I would rate it higher than the falls. But they’re both gorgeous!

With sweeping views of Lower and Upper Tama Lakes, Mount Ruapehu and Mount Ngauruhoe, and the narrow gorge of the dazzling Wairere Stream, the hike more than delivered. While the Tongariro Alpine Crossing may be more dramatic, it’s also barren and often crowded. Of course, there were a fair number of people on the Tama Lakes Trail, likely due to the Crossing’s closure.

For most of the route, the terrain is a relatively gentle gravel path that’s runnable, with easy footing.

An invigorating scene, the trail crosses over the narrow gorge of the dazzling Wairere Stream.

That changes during the final half-mile climb from Lower to Upper Tama Lake, where the trail steepens into loose, rocky scree that demands more attention and effort.

Here’s a video of the view from Upper Tama to Lower as the weather was changing.

You can also check out Taranaki Falls along the way. I highly recommend doing it on the way back, as the weather moves quickly here. In fact, it can turn in an instant, as I experienced, waiting for a friend to make the climb to Upper Tama. I watched his bright yellow rain jacket vanish into a wall of fog. One moment, the skies were clear; the next, the fog rolled in, and visibility was nil.

It’s easy to see how conditions like this can catch hikers off guard—whether from sudden exposure, hypothermia, or simply losing their bearings. Come prepared with layers and proper rain and wind gear, and don’t hesitate to turn back if conditions deteriorate.

Getting there: The trail starts from the road about 100 yards below the Whakapapa Visitor Centre.

Happy Trails!

A Quick Jaunt Up Lassen Peak Rewards With Panormaic Views, Lassen Volcanic National Park, CA

Distance: 5 miles

Elevation Gain: 1,957 ft (8,500 ft at the trailhead to 10,457 ft at the peak)

Difficulty: Moderate to difficult, depending on your fitness level and altitude acclimation.

(LVNP rates it as strenuous and suggests 4-5 hours. It took us 2 hours – the threat of a storm kept us on pace.)

When it’s your last day in LVNP, and you haven’t “bagged” Lassen Peak yet, you make a run for it. And so we did. Actually, it was more of a fast walk than a trot, but a steady pace to try and outpace a looming monsoon. Mission accomplished. This was a fun hike and a solid workout. In my opinion, the trail is runnable – mostly smooth gravel with some short rocky sections. It’s a moderate, though consistent, incline with sweeping switchbacks. (Unfortunately, my knees no longer sanction running, so I have to settle for brisk walking.)

Since we had just hiked the Ridge Lakes Trail with 1k of elevation gain, we were warmed up for the climb. If you’re just hopping out of the car, you may want to take a little stretch band stroll before you hop on the “hill”.

The immediate scenery is a bit stark, but the panoramic views are splendid.

Happy Trails!