My adventurous boyfriend, Bernie, had been on a white-water rafting trip with Sheri Griffith Expeditions and loved it. He wanted to share the experience with me, so he booked our Cataract Canyon expedition on the Colorado River. I had some reservations that I didn’t share with him about “surfing” Class 4 and 5 rapids. I didn’t want to dampen his exuberance about the trip. While I’m adventurous, I’m not a risk-taking, adrenaline-seeker type per se. I’ve only experienced an afternoon-long white-water rafting trip with mild Class 2 to 3 rapids. My anxiety did not dissipate after discovering what class 4 and 5 rapids are.
What are Class 4 and 5 rapids, you ask?
Class 4 Long, unpredictable rapids with large waves and narrow passages for intermediate and experienced rafters.
Class 5 Large, gnarly white-water waves with the possibility of rocks and other hazards, including large drops—requires precise maneuvering and advanced whitewater experience.
Pre-trip trepidation
Having reached a “certain age” where mortality looms large, the memories of serious accidents and the long road back from them haunt me. I pick my active adventures carefully. I want to stay happily and vigorously active for as long as possible. White-water rafting Class 4 and 5 rapids is a bit out of my risk zone. In the weeks leading up to the trip, I had a couple of nightmares. I shared my qualms with some of my close friends—primarily about being tossed out of the boat, hitting my head on a rock, being held underwater, and lights out. These things do happen, but infrequently. (Indeed, Bernie shared a story that this had happened a week before his last rafting trip. Probably not the best story to share with me before our trip.) Maybe I should take a more cavalier attitude like my Mother, “When your number’s up, your number’s up.”
Turns out, my number wasn’t up
Among the many exhilarating moments, was the instant where I nearly got pitched from the boat, my legs flying out perpendicular to me like a ragdoll’s—it turns out my number wasn’t up. So I got my feet and entire body wet trying something new and somewhat risky, and had a blast.
Why the 2-night, 3-day Cataract Canyon white-water rafting adventure on the Colorado River?
It was just the right amount of time for me. 3 days without a vigorous workout will make me wangry, and Bernie knew it. Bernie also knew that most of the rapids are in a fairly concentrated area. A 4- or 5-day trip means more downtime. If you enjoy relaxing by the river, it might be the right trip for you. (Of course, how relaxing it is depends on the group.)
We lucked out with a semi-private trip with kindred spirit raftmates—a cool couple from Salt Lake City. Some rafting companies would cancel your reservation or force you to reschedule since small group trips are not profitable. While they asked if we’d like to switch to the 4-day, they let us stick with our 3-day plan. The ratio of guides to guests was in our favor at 3:4, so we received 1st class, VIP treatment even without them knowing that I’d be blogging this review.
We Had the Best Crew
Owen, our boat team captain/river cowboy, was a skilled raftsman. He navigated us head-on into the white-water waves for extra fun while sharing his knowledge and love of the river during the lulls. As we floated down the river, he shared a poem about Floyd Dominy, the man behind the Glen Canyon Dam. The poem, Floyd’s Void, was written by former river runner, legendary Vaughn Short. (I’ve posted the humorous poem on the controversial dam at the end of this blog.)
Owen’s apprentices were Joe and Emma, college students, intellectuals, and athletes. After dinner clean-up, we’d chill out under the stars enjoying the evening and sharing stories
What did you bring? They take care of the food, tents, and sleeping bags. You pack for fun.
Speaking of the food, how was it? I ate better and more frequently than I do at home. We had 3 well-prepared and beautifully presented delicious meals a day, plus snacks and appetizers. (I wish I’d taken pictures of the charcuterie board and the other lovely dishes (pork roast, grilled carrots and mashed potatoes, egg sandwiches and fresh fruit, refreshing Caesar salad wraps, etc. but I was too busy chowing down.)
What were the highlights?
Bouncing through tumultuous rapids while bracing for the next shockingly cold (~50 degrees) splash to face and body
Mini hikes to cool granaries and overlooks
Chilling by the river at sunset was sublime, especially when the big horn sheep (my spirit animal) came down to the water to drink.
Doing yoga on the river beach both mornings
Dawn and sunsets golden glow on the cliff walls
What’s the scoop about packing out the poop?
To leave no trace and keep the beaches and river as pristine as possible, packing out poop is a necessity. You do your business on a metal “commode” called a “groover’. The earlier versions of the groover would leave telltale indents/grooves on one’s delicate cheeks. The name “stuck,” even though they have regular toilet seats now. At each campsite, the crew places the throne in a private spot with a fantastic view so you can meditate on nature’s beauty as you answer nature’s call. Bernie was answering nature’s call or getting his groove on when he was graced with a big horn sheep visitation on the beach at dawn. How’s that for a memory?!
Oh, and that’s not all.
To top it off, the adventure includes a 40-minute flight back to Moab with Red Tail Adventures in a Kodiak!* You get a bird’s eye view of Moab’s amazing geological wonderland and, if you’re lucky, a documentary-style narrative by the pilot! We took precautionary Dramamine because Bernie said last time there was a bunch of turbulence. Fortunately, there was no turbulence on this flight.
Unfortunately, the Dramamine had an unintended consequence on Bernie.
*(Flight is weather permitting. Otherwise, you’ve got a 2+ hour van ride back to Moab.)
Would I consider another white-water rafter rafting trip with Sheri Griffith Expeditions? Yes-absolutely! The food, service, and entire experience was tops. There are many options on multiple rivers (Colorado, Green, Yampa) via oarboat, motorboat, and kayak. And, I’d request our same crew.
Wholeheartedly recommend Sheri Griffith Expeditions —2 thumbs up.
Other lasting impressions
You hear of the devastating depletion of Lake Powell and the Colorado River in the news. Hearing Owen describe how it’s changed in his time on the river and seeing the evidence first hand from air and land was heartbreaking.
Who knows how much longer there will be white-water water rafting trips on this man-strangled river. The only exit ramp left is steep and treacherous and takes hours for the crew to maneuver. Big thank you to Bernie, our crew at Sheri Griffith Expeditions, and Red Tail Adventures for an EPIC adventure!
I’ll close with Vaughn’s Short’s poem, Floyd’s Void from his book Raging River Lonely Trail, Tails Told by the Campfire’s Glow.
Floyd’s Void
There’s a breed of men who sit at their desks
And they like their water tame,
They like to damn the rivers up,
Then give the lakes a name
They do They give the lakes a name.
So give three cheers for the Bureau boys
And a special rah for Floyd
He built his dam and he built it well
And then he said, “In spite of hell, I’m going to fill that void l am I’m going to fill that void”
Now within this void, created by Floyd,
Was a special thing or two,
Reserved for the sight of the filthy rich
And a very greedy few They were A very greedy few.
So give three cheers for the Bureau boys
And a special rah for Floyd
For Floyd did say, “I’ll change this plan,
I’ll open it up for the common man I will I’ll open it up for the common man.”
“What value the trees?
What value the grasses, Compared to the rights of the down-trodden masses?”
Floyd said, “I’ll make it so easy, I’ll make it so simple,
They can all speed their boats over Music Temple How about that?
Speed right over the top of Music Temple!”
So give three cheers for the Bureau boys
And a special rah for Floyd, For now we know beneath the blue
Is a revered spot once seen by few
How sad Before Floyd’s void seen only by few.
To see the Rainbow-aloof-remote you had to hike or you had to float
Denied it was to that jolly old chap
By his houseboat rail in his yachting cap
Oh my! Poor old chap in his yachting cap.
So give three cheers for the Bureau boys
And a special rah for Floyd.
Floyd said, “We’ll put the water there For this deserving old man in his easy chair,
For he’s entitled to his just share He is He’s entitled to his just share.”
If one should insist on making a list
Of the many grandeurs there-There were Gregory, Dungeon, Hidden Passage
And many more I swear Oh Yes!
There were many more I swear. So give three cheers for the Bureau boys
And a special rah for Floyd
He buried them all deep under his lake
But he did it for the people’s sake
He did He did it for the people’s sake.
For the power hungry man with the dollar sign eyes,
Who lights up the neon in the evening skies,
For the poor down-trodden in his speeding boat,
For the jolly old chap in his yachting cap
Who had no water to float Poor guy
He had no water to float.
So give three cheers for the Bureau boys And a special rah for Floyd
Though he buried the Moqui and he shortened the wall,
He did it for the good of all He did
He did it for the good of all!
But there’s a breed of men both hardy and free
Who lie at night on the lonely bars
And there beneath the glittering stars
They dream of TNT They do They dream of TNT.
So give three cheers for the Bureau boys And a special rah for Floyd
He built his dam and though he built it well,
These dreamers swear in spite of hell
They’re going to void Floyd’s void
They are They’re going to void Floyd’s void.
They dream of a mighty boom and a quake.
They dream of a swirl in a vanishing lake.
They dream of a river wild and free,
Freed from its shackles by TNT Sweet bliss
Freed from its shackles by TNT.
Now! Let’s have three cheers for the boys on the bars
Who dream their dreams ‘neath the glittering stars.
Who dream of a wild and a wonderful treat
A house boat running Dominy Falls at a million second feet
Ah yes A house boat running Dominy Falls at a million second feet!
On the Loose Live 