Another Dreamy Day With Top Bike Tours Portugal: Carrapateira to Sagres

While every day of my Top Bike Tours Portugal adventure was dreamy, the days I enjoyed most were the ones when we arrived at our destination with enough time to simply be there—to wander, explore on our own, stroll along the beach, surf, swim, or just immerse ourselves in the local vibe.

For that reason and others, the second-to-last day of my biking tour stands out as one of my favorites. The morning began with a long, challenging climb, which was rewarded with a cruise down smooth roads and along scenic, coastal gravel paths. With only 20 miles to cover, it was an easy day that left us with plenty of energy and time to enjoy our stops along the way, and to relax by the sea in Sagres that afternoon and evening.

It certainly didn’t hurt that our accommodations for the night were at the 4-star Memmo Baleeira. This upscale, resort-style property is typically reserved for those who purchase the premium package. Not sure how I lucked out, but it was an unexpected and very welcome surprise.

Today’s Scenic and Historical Stops

Cape St. Vincent (Cabo de São Vicente): This extreme southwestern point of mainland Europe was known as the legendary “end of the world” during the Age of Discoveries as it was the last explored point-the edge that dropped into the Atlantic and the unknown. 

Indeed, ancient civilizations considered this windswept promontory a holy gathering place for their gods and the Romans referred to it as the Promontorium Sacrum (Sacred Promontory) or “the end of the world.” The name Sagres itself is derived from the Latin word sacrum (meaning “holy” or “sacred).

Farol do Cabo de São Vicente Set on a dramatic cliff presiding  ~ 250 feet above the restless and unruly Atlantic, thelighthouse (farol ) here is one of the most powerful lighthouses in Europe.

The Fortress of Sagres

Featuring Renaissance-Mannerist architecture, the impressive, photogenic 15th-century Fortress of Sagres was commissioned by Prince Henry the Navigator. Damaged in the 1775 Lisbon earthquake, it was rebuilt in the late 18th century and underwent major renovations in 1960s, 1990s, and 2010.

Staying at the Memmo Baleeira was a premium experience indeed — beautiful room and pool with sea views. And I took full advantage – went for a late afternoon swim in the pool, a sunset walk on the beach where I had it all to myself. While the water was calm and flat, I learned that Sagres is known for having some of the best and most consistent surfing in Europe because the peninsula juts out, capturing good waves regardless of wind direction.

After my stroll on the beach, I enjoyed dinner alfresco with a sea view. The owner introduced himself and treated me to shots of a potent local liquor to celebrate the restaurant’s recent opening. Oddly, I can’t recall the name of the alcohol…lol.

At the end of the day, I fell into my luxurious bed at the Memmo Baleeira and had my best sleep of the week. In the morning, I awoke well-rested to watch the sunrise over the sea as the swallows swooped and the seagulls called to each other.

It was bittersweet to realize that today would be the final day of our incredible bike tour. Usually, by the end of a touring adventure, I’m ready to move on. Not this time. I would have been perfectly happy to continue the journey through the country with Top Bike Tours of Portugal.

Happy adventures!

A Royal Treat: The Ben Lemond Track & Queenstown, South Island, NZ

Ben Lemond Track—Choose your adventure

Tiki Trail/ Base of Gondola Start to Summit Distance rt from Tiki Trail: ~9.7 miles Elevation Gain: ~4,786Top of Skyline Gondola Head Start to Summit Distance rt: ~7.1 miles Elevation Gain: ~3,310 ft

Difficulty: Moderate/difficult, depending on your fitness level. (AllTrails rates it as strenuous/advanced/highly challenging.)

Of my two weeks of adventures in New Zealand, this was one of my favorite days—and easily one of my favorite days anywhere. Simply EPIC from start to finish.

After hiking the Marian Lake Track and Key Summit the day before, I spent the night in a small, somewhat dilapidated motel in the scenic, lakeside village of Manapouri. While the accommodation left much to be desired, falling asleep and waking up to the spectacular view below more than made up for it—a fortuitous start to a day that would prove exceptional both on and off the trail.

Queenstown, the South Island’s Adventure Mecca

Here, every step you take leads to breathtaking scenery and an exhilarating experience. Set against the dramatic backdrop of the jagged peaks of The Remarkables mountain range with the shimmering waters of Lake Wakatipu (NZ’s longest lake – 50 miles long) reflecting the surrounding beauty, Queenstown is arguably one of the most stunning destinations in New Zealand and a gateway to some of the country’s most memorable outdoor experiences—including the spectacular Ben Lomond Track.

Whether you’re hiking alpine ridges, carving down mountain bike trails, riding gondolas, the luge, the Vortex Slide, or the Zipline, or mixing it up, your outdoor bliss awaits in Queenstown. The town itself doesn’t disappoint either—vibrant streets lined with galleries, restaurants, shops, and gorgeous boutique hotels like the one I stayed at, The Central Hotel, where the perks included a complimentary bottle of local wine, snacks, and continental breakfast.

While Kiwis, (as New Zealanders call themselves), may dismiss Queenstown as overly touristy, its popularity is clearly well-earned. (Also, in my opinion, the “touristy” vibe in NZ feels far more subtle than the US, and generally, crowds are smaller. than what you encounter stateside.)

A Queenstown Must Do: The Breathtaking & Ravishingly Beautiful Ben Lemond Track

There are two ways to access the Ben Lomond Track: hike up the Tiki Trail from the base of the Skyline Gondola, or give yourself a head start by riding the gondola to the top.

Obviously, starting from the Tiki Trail adds both distance and elevation to your adventure—about 2.6 miles round trip and 1,476 feet of additional climbing. Naturally, I took the Tiki Trail. Was it worth it? Yes, and no.

On the plus side, it added to the workout challenge, which I rarely resist. From a scenery perspective, it didn’t add much, as much of the trail winds through the forest, with the best views near the top.

If you have the time and enjoy earning every foot of elevation, the Tiki Trail is worthwhile. But if the Ben Lomond hike itself feels like enough of a challenge—or you’re simply short on time—take the Skyline Gondola.

The Ben Lemond Track is well-marked, easy to follow, and easy on the feet, until the last rocky mile or so to the summit. Great for trail running. The mountain bike trails are separate (45 mountain biking trails and 10 e-bike trails), so no close encounters with bikes (thankfully), but it’s fun to watch them flying down the ridgelines from a distance. As you climb the ridgeline, the incline is consistent, but mostly gentle/moderate until that last mile. Your reward is expansive views of the dazzling Lake Wakatipu (NZ’s longest lake – 50 miles long) and Queenstown far below, and a stunning panoramic view of it all at the top. While the summit is only 5,735 feet in elevation, it is considered alpine as it’s above treeline, completely exposed, and subject to severe, volatile weather. (Be prepared and check the weather forecast in advance.) I’ve discovered that many alpine hikes in New Zealand offer plenty of elevation gain without the altitude factor—same magnificent alpine hiking and scenic rewards, but far less arduous than hikes at higher elevations. Super fun and doable for hiking, trail running, and biking, but not helpful if you need altitude training or will be competing at altitude.

While not an official “Great Walk” of NZ, the Ben Lemond Track is a GREAT hike—in my opinion, it’s a “must do” if you’re in Queenstown.

So many adventures, so little time! Definitely something for everyone here! Whatever Queenstown adventures you choose, be sure to work up a good appetite, and then treat yourself to the lavish all-you-can-eat feast (lunch or dinner) at the Stratosfare Restaurant. Enjoy the incredible views, live music, and decadent delights.

Pro Tip: Reservations are required at the Stratosfare Restaurant, but it’s 100% worth checking in to see if they have last-minute availability. You just may get lucky like I did!

Skyline Gondola Views

Happiness is a challenging hike followed by an indulgent feast, a sunset gondola ride, and a cozy bed with a welcoming bottle of local wine and snacks—all with spectacular views! This was truly an epic day for me in NZ and in my life!

Happy Trails! Stay tuned for more NZ adventures.

The Waitomo Cave Experience—Wet & Wild Subterranean Adventure, North Island, NZ

Disclaimer: none of the photos were taken by me, as we had to leave our cameras behind. In hindsight, that was for the best—having both hands free was essential given the slippery, wet, uneven, rocky terrain, and the crawling, wading, and swimming sections.

First Some Cave Context

Years ago, while traveling in Thailand, I explored a couple of miles of the Chiang Dao Cave—fascinating and not especially sketchy (unless you count the thousands of bats and the one tight crawl space).

Then, a year later, along with the rest of the world, I followed the nine-day saga of the boys’ soccer team trapped in a similar cave after monsoon rains flooded it. I remember thinking, “Yeah… I probably won’t be going into a cave again anytime soon.

Well, nearly ten years later, here I am at the Waitomo Cave Experience. My travel partner chose this one, and I wasn’t about to be a spoil sport. So, I wrestled myself into a thick, heavy wetsuit, squeezed on the white rubber “go-go” boots, and trudged off in slow motion with the rest of our oversized sloth of a group, crossing the oddly undulating pasture—hinting at the contours of the cave below—toward the woods.

At the edge of the woods, we climbed down a steel ladder, descending into the pitch-black, damp abyss of the Okohua Cave, and the adventure began… We switched on our headlamps—bright third eyes piercing the darkness and, just as often, blinding one another.

After casually warning us to stay put if anything happened to him, our guide led us into the narrow, watery “slot canyons” of the 30-million-year-old limestone grotto.

“Watch your head!” “Watch your footing!” And “Hands off!” the dripping stalactites and other stalagmite formations. It was slow going.

We stopped several times to turn off our headlamps and gaze up at the dark “sky” bespeckled with tiny lights from thousands of bioluminescent Arachnocampa luminosa (glow worm) larvae. (“Better worms than bats, I say.”) It was a lovely sight indeed.

Later, we’d enter a canyon with deep water where inner tubes were waiting for us for a cruise down glow worm alley. It was magical and mesmerizing. The once chatty group fell silent in awe.

Photo Credits: The Waitomo Cave Experience website.

If you’re slightly claustrophobic like me, adding water to the equation amplifies it…as do the low ceilings and narrow tunnels. Of course, learning that you’ll be underground for over 3 hours and knowing that you can’t simply, easily, and quickly exit also contributes to that constricting feeling…Not to mention the heavy wetsuit weighing you down…

As a yogi, I practiced my relaxation breathing and tried to stay in the moment. There were a couple of opportunities to bypass the tighter, belly crawling, face-first-into-the murky water routes, but, well, where’s the fun in that?

It was an amazing adventure for sure, but I probably won’t be going into another cave anytime soon…(Yeah, I know…)

Happy Adventuring!

Easy Waterfall Hikes With Ravishing Rewards, Tongariro National Park, NZ: Tawhai & Taranaki Falls

Founded in 1887 and officially established in 1894, Tongariro is New Zealand’s oldest national park and the 4th in the world. It is a dual UNESCO World Heritage site, recognized for both its outstanding natural volcanic features, including 3 active volcanoes: Mt. Ruapehu, Mt. Ngauruhoe, and Mt. Tongariro, and its cultural significance to the native Māori people.

Tawhai Falls                  Distance: < .50 Mile                               (Ranking 6th of the Top Hikes in Tongariro National Park per AllTrails.)

Up for a tame, super short stroll to a lovely waterfall? Tawhai Falls won’t disappoint. It’s an easy walk through the forest on a smooth trail to see the gorgeous, rushing, crystal-clear, turquoise waters of this 42-foot-high waterfall. You can take in the views from the top viewing platform and then follow the water’s journey to the base of the falls.

Getting to Tawhai Falls: It’s right off the SH48, about 2.5 miles below Whakapapa Village. Look for the large sign.

Taranaki Falls              Distance: 3.73 Miles (The #2 Top Hike in the Park per AllTrails.)

Another tame and short walk to a waterfall is Taranaki Falls. Here, you’ll walk through the tussock (a golden, coppery red ornamental grass that is native to New Zealand) and alpine shrublands, enjoying expansive views of mountains and the beech forest, until you come to the star of the show— the dramatic 65 ft Taranaki Falls tumble down from top of the volcanic cliffs (formed by the Ruapehu eruption of 15,000  years ago) to a natural, boulder-ringed pool below.

In my opinion, this loop is most scenic clockwise, with the reward of rounding a corner for the big reveal (versus the anticlimax of seeing the comparatively anticlimactic top of the falls first). From the falls, the track climbs up to loop back, or you can continue your hike on the Tama Lakes Track (post to come).

Getting there: The trail starts from the road about 100 yards below the Whakapapa Visitor Centre.

Happy Trails and Waterfall Chasing!

Getting a Taste of New Zealand, Oneroa Village, Waiheke Island

A short 40-minute ferry ride from Auckland, with its coastal charm and vineyard vistas, Waiheke Island feels like a world apart. With 36 miles of coastline, internationally acclaimed wineries, sun-drenched olive groves, award-winning restaurants, stylish boutiques, and vibrant art galleries, this island escape is the perfect blend of relaxation and refinement.

Arrive in Oneroa, a lively, yet laid-back charming village that’s ideal for wandering on foot. From here, you can create your own Island experience by taking the Hop-on Hop Off Bus, or simply strolling from winery to winery and shop to gallery. For nature immersion, there’s ziplining above the treetops and extended coastal walks. If you’d like to get more of the lay of the land, you can rent motor scooters, ebikes, or a car on the island. In favorable weather, the beaches may beckon you for a swim, kayak, stand-up paddle, or for a sunny snooze.

Here, the fresh flavors of New Zealand come alive awakening the appetite and tantalizing the taste buds. Oenophiles and food lovers alike will delight in discovering the region’s remarkable wines and vibrant culinary scene. Some may wonder how the wineries and cuisine compare to California’s renowned Napa and Sonoma wine regions. In my opinion, Oneroa’s wineries and their scenic coastal setting rival (dare I say, surpass) them. But of course, you’ll have to decide for yourself.

Whether you’re seeking a memorable day trip or a relaxed weekend escape, the charming never-never land of Oneroa is a wonderful place to spend an afternoon, the day, or a couple of days. For me it was an idyllic spot i to let the haze of the long flight gently dissolve before “winding up” for the New Zealand adventures to come. The vibe is relaxed yet sophisticated, encouraging you to slow down, savor the moment and the flavors, and soak up the best of island life. Stay tuned for the adventure posts – teaser alert – world-class hiking!!!

Happy Travels!

Guide to Waiheke Island.

Ferry info from Auckand.