The Waitomo Cave Experience—Wet & Wild Subterranean Adventure, North Island, NZ

Disclaimer: none of the photos were taken by me, as we had to leave our cameras behind. In hindsight, that was for the best—having both hands free was essential given the slippery, wet, uneven, rocky terrain, and the crawling, wading, and swimming sections.

First Some Cave Context

Years ago, while traveling in Thailand, I explored a couple of miles of the Chiang Dao Cave—fascinating and not especially sketchy (unless you count the thousands of bats and the one tight crawl space).

Then, a year later, along with the rest of the world, I followed the nine-day saga of the boys’ soccer team trapped in a similar cave after monsoon rains flooded it. I remember thinking, “Yeah… I probably won’t be going into a cave again anytime soon.

Well, nearly ten years later, here I am at the Waitomo Cave Experience. My travel partner chose this one, and I wasn’t about to be a spoil sport. So, I wrestled myself into a thick, heavy wetsuit, squeezed on the white rubber “go-go” boots, and trudged off in slow motion with the rest of our oversized sloth of a group, crossing the oddly undulating pasture—hinting at the contours of the cave below—toward the woods.

At the edge of the woods, we climbed down a steel ladder, descending into the pitch-black, damp abyss of the Okohua Cave, and the adventure began… We switched on our headlamps—bright third eyes piercing the darkness and, just as often, blinding one another.

After casually warning us to stay put if anything happened to him, our guide led us into the narrow, watery “slot canyons” of the 30-million-year-old limestone grotto.

“Watch your head!” “Watch your footing!” And “Hands off!” the dripping stalactites and other stalagmite formations. It was slow going.

We stopped several times to turn off our headlamps and gaze up at the dark “sky” bespeckled with tiny lights from thousands of bioluminescent Arachnocampa luminosa (glow worm) larvae. (“Better worms than bats, I say.”) It was a lovely sight indeed.

Later, we’d enter a canyon with deep water where inner tubes were waiting for us for a cruise down glow worm alley. It was magical and mesmerizing. The once chatty group fell silent in awe.

Photo Credits: The Waitomo Cave Experience website.

If you’re slightly claustrophobic like me, adding water to the equation amplifies it…as do the low ceilings and narrow tunnels. Of course, learning that you’ll be underground for over 3 hours and knowing that you can’t simply, easily, and quickly exit also contributes to that constricting feeling…Not to mention the heavy wetsuit weighing you down…

As a yogi, I practiced my relaxation breathing and tried to stay in the moment. There were a couple of opportunities to bypass the tighter, belly crawling, face-first-into-the murky water routes, but, well, where’s the fun in that?

It was an amazing adventure for sure, but I probably won’t be going into another cave anytime soon…(Yeah, I know…)

Happy Adventuring!

Easy Waterfall Hikes With Ravishing Rewards, Tongariro National Park, NZ: Tawhai & Taranaki Falls

Founded in 1887 and officially established in 1894, Tongariro is New Zealand’s oldest national park and the 4th in the world. It is a dual UNESCO World Heritage site, recognized for both its outstanding natural volcanic features, including 3 active volcanoes: Mt. Ruapehu, Mt. Ngauruhoe, and Mt. Tongariro, and its cultural significance to the native Māori people.

Tawhai Falls                  Distance: < .50 Mile                               (Ranking 6th of the Top Hikes in Tongariro National Park per AllTrails.)

Up for a tame, super short stroll to a lovely waterfall? Tawhai Falls won’t disappoint. It’s an easy walk through the forest on a smooth trail to see the gorgeous, rushing, crystal-clear, turquoise waters of this 42-foot-high waterfall. You can take in the views from the top viewing platform and then follow the water’s journey to the base of the falls.

Getting to Tawhai Falls: It’s right off the SH48, about 2.5 miles below Whakapapa Village. Look for the large sign.

Taranaki Falls              Distance: 3.73 Miles (The #2 Top Hike in the Park per AllTrails.)

Another tame and short walk to a waterfall is Taranaki Falls. Here, you’ll walk through the tussock (a golden, coppery red ornamental grass that is native to New Zealand) and alpine shrublands, enjoying expansive views of mountains and the beech forest, until you come to the star of the show— the dramatic 65 ft Taranaki Falls tumble down from top of the volcanic cliffs (formed by the Ruapehu eruption of 15,000  years ago) to a natural, boulder-ringed pool below.

In my opinion, this loop is most scenic clockwise, with the reward of rounding a corner for the big reveal (versus the anticlimax of seeing the comparatively anticlimactic top of the falls first). From the falls, the track climbs up to loop back, or you can continue your hike on the Tama Lakes Track (post to come).

Getting there: The trail starts from the road about 100 yards below the Whakapapa Visitor Centre.

Happy Trails and Waterfall Chasing!

Getting a Taste of New Zealand, Oneroa Village, Waiheke Island

A short 40-minute ferry ride from Auckland, with its coastal charm and vineyard vistas, Waiheke Island feels like a world apart. With 36 miles of coastline, internationally acclaimed wineries, sun-drenched olive groves, award-winning restaurants, stylish boutiques, and vibrant art galleries, this island escape is the perfect blend of relaxation and refinement.

Arrive in Oneroa, a lively, yet laid-back charming village that’s ideal for wandering on foot. From here, you can create your own Island experience by taking the Hop-on Hop Off Bus, or simply strolling from winery to winery and shop to gallery. For nature immersion, there’s ziplining above the treetops and extended coastal walks. If you’d like to get more of the lay of the land, you can rent motor scooters, ebikes, or a car on the island. In favorable weather, the beaches may beckon you for a swim, kayak, stand-up paddle, or for a sunny snooze.

Here, the fresh flavors of New Zealand come alive awakening the appetite and tantalizing the taste buds. Oenophiles and food lovers alike will delight in discovering the region’s remarkable wines and vibrant culinary scene. Some may wonder how the wineries and cuisine compare to California’s renowned Napa and Sonoma wine regions. In my opinion, Oneroa’s wineries and their scenic coastal setting rival (dare I say, surpass) them. But of course, you’ll have to decide for yourself.

Whether you’re seeking a memorable day trip or a relaxed weekend escape, the charming never-never land of Oneroa is a wonderful place to spend an afternoon, the day, or a couple of days. For me it was an idyllic spot i to let the haze of the long flight gently dissolve before “winding up” for the New Zealand adventures to come. The vibe is relaxed yet sophisticated, encouraging you to slow down, savor the moment and the flavors, and soak up the best of island life. Stay tuned for the adventure posts – teaser alert – world-class hiking!!!

Happy Travels!

Guide to Waiheke Island.

Ferry info from Auckand.