Difficulty: Easy to Moderate (depending on your fitness level). The trail is so gradual, I didn’t notice the elevation gain until the last half-mile climb up loose, rocky scree to Upper Tama Lake.
When we learned that the Tongariro Alpine Crossing—widely considered the park’s top hike—was closed due to high winds and poor weather, the Tama Lakes Track became our backup plan. It didn’t disappoint. (AllTrails rates it #3 behind both the Tongariro Alpine Crossing #1 and #2 Taranaki Falls. I would rate it higher than the falls. But they’re both gorgeous!
With sweeping views of Lower and Upper Tama Lakes, Mount Ruapehu and Mount Ngauruhoe, and the narrow gorge of the dazzling Wairere Stream, the hike more than delivered. While the Tongariro Alpine Crossing may be more dramatic, it’s also barren and often crowded. Of course, there were a fair number of people on the Tama Lakes Trail, likely due to the Crossing’s closure.
For most of the route, the terrain is a relatively gentle gravel path that’s runnable, with easy footing.
An invigorating scene, the trail crosses over the narrow gorge of the dazzling Wairere Stream.
That changes during the final half-mile climb from Lower to Upper Tama Lake, where the trail steepens into loose, rocky scree that demands more attention and effort.
Here’s a video of the view from Upper Tama to Lower as the weather was changing.
You can also check out Taranaki Falls along the way. I highly recommend doing it on the way back, as the weather moves quickly here. In fact, it can turn in an instant, as I experienced, waiting for a friend to make the climb to Upper Tama. I watched his bright yellow rain jacket vanish into a wall of fog. One moment, the skies were clear; the next, the fog rolled in, and visibility was nil.
It’s easy to see how conditions like this can catch hikers off guard—whether from sudden exposure, hypothermia, or simply losing their bearings. Come prepared with layers and proper rain and wind gear, and don’t hesitate to turn back if conditions deteriorate.
Getting there: The trail starts from the road about 100 yards below the Whakapapa Visitor Centre.
SPOILER ALERT: This was one of the best bike tours and active vacations I’ve ever taken by far—the guides and support van, the challenging, engaging road and gravel routes, the quality of the hotels and restaurants, the spectacular scenery, and ALL the cultural add-ons – private tour of Amalia Rodrigues, Portugal’s “Queen of Fado” spectacular Frank Lloyd Write inspired cliffside. seaside home, the surprise private Fado concert, fortress tour, winery & distillery tours, etc. (As you probably know by now, I’ve taken a few bike tours and travel adventures, including Cuba, Thailand, etc.)Top Bike Tours Portugal exceeded expectations across the board. (Note: I tried to be expectations-free, but let’s face it, I’m spoiled by all the beautiful places I’ve seen and the excellent adventures I’ve been privileged to have.)
Thelmo, Pedro, and Top Bike Tours made my first encounter with Portugal not only unforgettable, but it’s no overstatement to say, life-changing, as it was a scouting trip for me to find a new EU adventure base camp and home.
From the warmth of the people, the ravishing, pristine beauty of the coastlines, the exquisite cuisine, the extensive and challenging road and gravel biking, the surfing, and the enchanting, white-washed villages, I was spellbound. I left my heart in Portugal, and I’ll reunite with it sometime in the not-too-distant future… In the meantime, I’ll relive my incredible journey along the Vincente Coast and the Algarve in the posts to come.
After conducting some research, I chose Top Bike Tours Portugal because I’d read a couple of rave reviews on an international middleman site that mentioned the company and guide by name. I also wanted to go direct to ensure that the local company would receive the entirety of my payment. While self-guided options were available, since navigation isn’t my strong suit, I chose the guided option with full Support and Gear (SAG) Van, which was only about $100 more per day and so worth it for the added peace of mind.
A break in my work schedule allowed me to join the “reduced” (shorter version) of the Vincente Coast Algarve 8-Day Bike Tour at the last minute. (Those who know me know me as “Last Minute Lydia,” and the way this trip and scheduling my subsequent eye surgery in Prague (more on this later) came together was in my typical spontaneous “if the stars align” fashion.
Total Distance and Mileage:141 miles with 8,290 feet of climbing.
Difficulty on regular bikes: Moderate ++, depending on your fitness level – the hills are no joke here, and they are plentiful – 16% grade was not an anomaly. Also, having some off-road bike handling experience is important. Many in our group were not experienced with the rougher terrain of off-road gravel biking, and exercised good judgment by walking the sketchier sections.
Day 1 – Arrival Lisbon and van transfer to Santiago do Cacém
Day 2 – Santiago do Cacém to Vila Nova de Mil Fontes
Day 3 – Vila Nova de Mil Fontes to Zambujeira do Mar
Day 4 – Zambujeira do Mar to Aljezur
Day 5 – Aljezur to Carrapateira
Day 6 – Carrapateira to Sagres
Day 7 – Sagres to Lagos
Day 8 – Departure
Arrival Day 1
We arrived at Lisbon Airport in the afternoon (after a long travel day from Utah) and were met by an Uber driver who took us to a hotel.
The featured image and the 2 images below are taken from my hotel room’s grass patio. In the distance, rooftops and a distant sea view. Across the way, a church and a castle dating back to the 5th century (didn’t realize it was there until I blew the photo up to write this blog).
At the hotel, we met with our guide, Thelmo, our support van driver, Pedro, and the rest of the tour group for introductions and bike fittings. Surprisingly, the group was comprised primarily of Americans (the exception being 2 Brazilian ladies). Out of the 14 of us, only 3, my friend Bradley, another fellow, and I opted for regular bikes; the rest chose e-bikes.
Much to my dismay, despite many valiant attempts by my friend, Bradley, and Thelmo and Pedro, the bike cleats I brought failed, so I would be left to ride on flat pedals without the knee-saving advantage of being clipped in. This would present quite a challenge on hills with my bone-on-bone knees, but I had to try. Of course, they offered me an e-bike, but, as you may know by now, I love challenges and being vigorous, and being a die-hard former triathlete and cyclist, I didn’t want to surrender my will to self-propel.
To shake off the effects of 24 hours of travel and give my legs a stretch, I took a quick walkabout before dinner. On my short scenic stroll, I encountered a couple of the well-fed local feral felines and discovered a windmill and Roman Ruins, which were closed for the night. I also saw what would be the first of many Cork Trees in the countryside. (Portugal is the world’s largest exporter of cork.) Cork trees typically take 25 years to reach maturity and then can be harvested every 10 years or so. The number on the tree connotes the next decade in which it can be harvested. Families that planted and cultivated cork trees leave an ecological, aesthetic, and financial legacy for whoever inherits or purchases the property, though climate change is beginning to compromise this, too.
And dinner, let’s just say my first taste of Portugal was savory, delicately seasoned, and one of the healthiest meals I’ve had in a long while. I enjoyed the pesto salad and grilled fresh fish, both of which were outstanding, while my friend savored the octopus. The fragrant local olive oil is the best I’ve tasted, and it added a wonderful, subtle flavor dimension to both the pesto and the fish.
And then it was off to bed for some much-needed sleep, dreaming of the days to come…
On the Loose Live 