A Royal Treat: The Ben Lemond Track & Queenstown, South Island, NZ

Ben Lemond Track—Choose your adventure

Tiki Trail/ Base of Gondola Start to Summit Distance rt from Tiki Trail: ~9.7 miles Elevation Gain: ~4,786Top of Skyline Gondola Head Start to Summit Distance rt: ~7.1 miles Elevation Gain: ~3,310 ft

Difficulty: Moderate/difficult, depending on your fitness level. (AllTrails rates it as strenuous/advanced/highly challenging.)

Of my two weeks of adventures in New Zealand, this was one of my favorite days—and easily one of my favorite days anywhere. Simply EPIC from start to finish.

After hiking the Marian Lake Track and Key Summit the day before, I spent the night in a small, somewhat dilapidated motel in the scenic, lakeside village of Manapouri. While the accommodation left much to be desired, falling asleep and waking up to the spectacular view below more than made up for it—a fortuitous start to a day that would prove exceptional both on and off the trail.

Queenstown, the South Island’s Adventure Mecca

Here, every step you take leads to breathtaking scenery and an exhilarating experience. Set against the dramatic backdrop of the jagged peaks of The Remarkables mountain range with the shimmering waters of Lake Wakatipu (NZ’s longest lake – 50 miles long) reflecting the surrounding beauty, Queenstown is arguably one of the most stunning destinations in New Zealand and a gateway to some of the country’s most memorable outdoor experiences—including the spectacular Ben Lomond Track.

Whether you’re hiking alpine ridges, carving down mountain bike trails, riding gondolas, the luge, the Vortex Slide, or the Zipline, or mixing it up, your outdoor bliss awaits in Queenstown. The town itself doesn’t disappoint either—vibrant streets lined with galleries, restaurants, shops, and gorgeous boutique hotels like the one I stayed at, The Central Hotel, where the perks included a complimentary bottle of local wine, snacks, and continental breakfast.

While Kiwis, (as New Zealanders call themselves), may dismiss Queenstown as overly touristy, its popularity is clearly well-earned. (Also, in my opinion, the “touristy” vibe in NZ feels far more subtle than the US, and generally, crowds are smaller. than what you encounter stateside.)

A Queenstown Must Do: The Breathtaking & Ravishingly Beautiful Ben Lemond Track

There are two ways to access the Ben Lomond Track: hike up the Tiki Trail from the base of the Skyline Gondola, or give yourself a head start by riding the gondola to the top.

Obviously, starting from the Tiki Trail adds both distance and elevation to your adventure—about 2.6 miles round trip and 1,476 feet of additional climbing. Naturally, I took the Tiki Trail. Was it worth it? Yes, and no.

On the plus side, it added to the workout challenge, which I rarely resist. From a scenery perspective, it didn’t add much, as much of the trail winds through the forest, with the best views near the top.

If you have the time and enjoy earning every foot of elevation, the Tiki Trail is worthwhile. But if the Ben Lomond hike itself feels like enough of a challenge—or you’re simply short on time—take the Skyline Gondola.

The Ben Lemond Track is well-marked, easy to follow, and easy on the feet, until the last rocky mile or so to the summit. Great for trail running. The mountain bike trails are separate (45 mountain biking trails and 10 e-bike trails), so no close encounters with bikes (thankfully), but it’s fun to watch them flying down the ridgelines from a distance. As you climb the ridgeline, the incline is consistent, but mostly gentle/moderate until that last mile. Your reward is expansive views of the dazzling Lake Wakatipu (NZ’s longest lake – 50 miles long) and Queenstown far below, and a stunning panoramic view of it all at the top. While the summit is only 5,735 feet in elevation, it is considered alpine as it’s above treeline, completely exposed, and subject to severe, volatile weather. (Be prepared and check the weather forecast in advance.) I’ve discovered that many alpine hikes in New Zealand offer plenty of elevation gain without the altitude factor—same magnificent alpine hiking and scenic rewards, but far less arduous than hikes at higher elevations. Super fun and doable for hiking, trail running, and biking, but not helpful if you need altitude training or will be competing at altitude.

While not an official “Great Walk” of NZ, the Ben Lemond Track is a GREAT hike—in my opinion, it’s a “must do” if you’re in Queenstown.

So many adventures, so little time! Definitely something for everyone here! Whatever Queenstown adventures you choose, be sure to work up a good appetite, and then treat yourself to the lavish all-you-can-eat feast (lunch or dinner) at the Stratosfare Restaurant. Enjoy the incredible views, live music, and decadent delights.

Pro Tip: Reservations are required at the Stratosfare Restaurant, but it’s 100% worth checking in to see if they have last-minute availability. You just may get lucky like I did!

Skyline Gondola Views

Happiness is a challenging hike followed by an indulgent feast, a sunset gondola ride, and a cozy bed with a welcoming bottle of local wine and snacks—all with spectacular views! This was truly an epic day for me in NZ and in my life!

Happy Trails! Stay tuned for more NZ adventures.

Key Summit via the Routeburn Track, Fiordland National Park, South Island, NZ

Distance: ~5 Miles

Elevation Gain: ~1,573 FT

Difficulty: Easy to moderate, depending on your fitness level. 

I took a microsample (~10%) of the Routeburn Track Great Walk on my afternoon hike to Key Summit. Having just scrambled up the slick, rugged obstacle course to Lake Marian, it was a refreshing relief to stride up the gravel path to Key Summit.

The climb is gradual and is rewarded with sweeping views of the Hollyford Valley, alpine tarns (lakes/pools), and Fiordland’s panoramic rugged peaks.

Possibly the best Port-o-Potty view ever!

Looking back, after doing both Lake Marian and Key Summit, I might have preferred covering more distance on the Routeburn Track vs the painstaking, slo-mo route up to Lake Marian. (Not the most adventurous take, I know.) I tend to enjoy a more vigorous pace—the former trail runner in me still craves that rhythm. Tortuous terrain that slows my flow tends to be more frustrating than fun for me. Lately, I’ve also been weighing the “risk versus reward” factor. That said, Lake Marian is undeniably spectacular, and the hike has a sense of challenge and excitement that Key Summit doesn’t.

That’s the beauty of the great outdoors: you get to choose your own adventure. And in New Zealand, there’s no shortage of ways to find it. Stay tuned for more Great Walk sampling on the South Island!

Happy Trails!

Terrific Tama Lakes Track, Tongariro National Park, North Island, NZ

Distance: ~11 Miles

Elevation Gain: ~1,800 ft

Difficulty: Easy to Moderate (depending on your fitness level). The trail is so gradual, I didn’t notice the elevation gain until the last half-mile climb up loose, rocky scree to Upper Tama Lake.

When we learned that the Tongariro Alpine Crossing—widely considered the park’s top hike—was closed due to high winds and poor weather, the Tama Lakes Track became our backup plan. It didn’t disappoint. (AllTrails rates it #3 behind both the Tongariro Alpine Crossing #1 and #2 Taranaki Falls. I would rate it higher than the falls. But they’re both gorgeous!

With sweeping views of Lower and Upper Tama Lakes, Mount Ruapehu and Mount Ngauruhoe, and the narrow gorge of the dazzling Wairere Stream, the hike more than delivered. While the Tongariro Alpine Crossing may be more dramatic, it’s also barren and often crowded. Of course, there were a fair number of people on the Tama Lakes Trail, likely due to the Crossing’s closure.

For most of the route, the terrain is a relatively gentle gravel path that’s runnable, with easy footing.

An invigorating scene, the trail crosses over the narrow gorge of the dazzling Wairere Stream.

That changes during the final half-mile climb from Lower to Upper Tama Lake, where the trail steepens into loose, rocky scree that demands more attention and effort.

Here’s a video of the view from Upper Tama to Lower as the weather was changing.

You can also check out Taranaki Falls along the way. I highly recommend doing it on the way back, as the weather moves quickly here. In fact, it can turn in an instant, as I experienced, waiting for a friend to make the climb to Upper Tama. I watched his bright yellow rain jacket vanish into a wall of fog. One moment, the skies were clear; the next, the fog rolled in, and visibility was nil.

It’s easy to see how conditions like this can catch hikers off guard—whether from sudden exposure, hypothermia, or simply losing their bearings. Come prepared with layers and proper rain and wind gear, and don’t hesitate to turn back if conditions deteriorate.

Getting there: The trail starts from the road about 100 yards below the Whakapapa Visitor Centre.

Happy Trails!

Easy Waterfall Hikes With Ravishing Rewards, Tongariro National Park, NZ: Tawhai & Taranaki Falls

Founded in 1887 and officially established in 1894, Tongariro is New Zealand’s oldest national park and the 4th in the world. It is a dual UNESCO World Heritage site, recognized for both its outstanding natural volcanic features, including 3 active volcanoes: Mt. Ruapehu, Mt. Ngauruhoe, and Mt. Tongariro, and its cultural significance to the native Māori people.

Tawhai Falls                  Distance: < .50 Mile                               (Ranking 6th of the Top Hikes in Tongariro National Park per AllTrails.)

Up for a tame, super short stroll to a lovely waterfall? Tawhai Falls won’t disappoint. It’s an easy walk through the forest on a smooth trail to see the gorgeous, rushing, crystal-clear, turquoise waters of this 42-foot-high waterfall. You can take in the views from the top viewing platform and then follow the water’s journey to the base of the falls.

Getting to Tawhai Falls: It’s right off the SH48, about 2.5 miles below Whakapapa Village. Look for the large sign.

Taranaki Falls              Distance: 3.73 Miles (The #2 Top Hike in the Park per AllTrails.)

Another tame and short walk to a waterfall is Taranaki Falls. Here, you’ll walk through the tussock (a golden, coppery red ornamental grass that is native to New Zealand) and alpine shrublands, enjoying expansive views of mountains and the beech forest, until you come to the star of the show— the dramatic 65 ft Taranaki Falls tumble down from top of the volcanic cliffs (formed by the Ruapehu eruption of 15,000  years ago) to a natural, boulder-ringed pool below.

In my opinion, this loop is most scenic clockwise, with the reward of rounding a corner for the big reveal (versus the anticlimax of seeing the comparatively anticlimactic top of the falls first). From the falls, the track climbs up to loop back, or you can continue your hike on the Tama Lakes Track (post to come).

Getting there: The trail starts from the road about 100 yards below the Whakapapa Visitor Centre.

Happy Trails and Waterfall Chasing!

A Quick Jaunt Up Lassen Peak Rewards With Panormaic Views, Lassen Volcanic National Park, CA

Distance: 5 miles

Elevation Gain: 1,957 ft (8,500 ft at the trailhead to 10,457 ft at the peak)

Difficulty: Moderate to difficult, depending on your fitness level and altitude acclimation.

(LVNP rates it as strenuous and suggests 4-5 hours. It took us 2 hours – the threat of a storm kept us on pace.)

When it’s your last day in LVNP, and you haven’t “bagged” Lassen Peak yet, you make a run for it. And so we did. Actually, it was more of a fast walk than a trot, but a steady pace to try and outpace a looming monsoon. Mission accomplished. This was a fun hike and a solid workout. In my opinion, the trail is runnable – mostly smooth gravel with some short rocky sections. It’s a moderate, though consistent, incline with sweeping switchbacks. (Unfortunately, my knees no longer sanction running, so I have to settle for brisk walking.)

Since we had just hiked the Ridge Lakes Trail with 1k of elevation gain, we were warmed up for the climb. If you’re just hopping out of the car, you may want to take a little stretch band stroll before you hop on the “hill”.

The immediate scenery is a bit stark, but the panoramic views are splendid.

Happy Trails!