National Parks – On the Loose Live

The Game of Risk: The Hike to Lake Marian, Fiordland National Park, South Island, NZ

April 18, 2026April 19, 2026livevigorously

Mileage: 4.4 Miles rt

Elevation Gain: 1,400 ft

Difficulty: More gnarly than “difficult” per se

The Lake Marian hike is short, but risky business. A trail sign warns of “rough terrain” and advises that only experienced hikers continue.

For the first half-mile, the path crosses a swing bridge over the Hollyford River and follows the magnificent, roaring Marian Creek, lulling you into a false sense of ease. The creek is dazzling, but dangerous too. (Sadly, in 2024, a 10-year-old girl slipped in and was washed away.)

After the warning sign, you begin the slippery obstacle course, scrambling over wet roots, loose, slimy mossy rocks, and mud on a barely perceptible, steep trail. It is a painstaking, slow-motion journey, each step a careful calculation. I only have 1 photo of the trail because I needed to keep my hands free and my focus for fall / accident prevention. It’s the kind of hike best left to the nimble and sure-footed—reminiscent of some trails in the rainforests of Hawaii, but possibly more treacherous.

This hike stands in stark contrast to the meticulously groomed trails like the Kepler Track and the Tama Lakes Track that I hiked a few days before (some might argue those are over-groomed), but my knees and I have zero complaints.

Everyone knows I love my alpine lakes and often go to great lengths to get to them. Lake Marian, with its granite glacier-carved basin, snow-capped peaks, and waterfalls, is spectacularly stunning, but having done it, I’m not sure I would choose it again. (Especially, with ALL the beauty of New Zealand to choose from and the more pristine “tracks” that don’t threaten a broken ankle, or leg at every turn…) For instance, after this hike, I went on the nearby Routeburn Track (one of New Zealand’s 11 “Great Walks”) to Key Summit (post to come). In retrospect, spending the day taking in more miles of that 20-mile track would have been time better spent.

On the way down, a helicopter rescue was underway for a woman who had slipped and broken her leg. Unfortunately, the terrain was so rugged that they couldn’t maneuver the helicopter where it was needed. Instead, the rescuers would need to hike in to get her…(She was still waiting, hours later.) It made me think: perhaps a more effective warning sign for the hike would be one that shows the tally of rescues here. I have to imagine they are weekly, if not, daily in the high season.

While some might label me a risk taker, the risks I take are certainly becoming more calculated with each passing year…

Pro Tips: If you’re determined to do the Lake Marian hike, save it for your last day so an accident doesn’t ruin your entire vacation. Bring water shoes if you’re planning to go for an immersion, as there are sharp rocks at the shore. (I skipped my usual dip as the air was brisk, and I knew the hike back through the dense forest would be slow going, likely not enough vigorous movement to ward off hypothermia.)

Getting There: The Marian Lake trailhead is located in Fiordland National Park, just 1km off Milford-Te Anau Highway (SH 94) on Lower Hlyyfor Road.

Happy Trails! Stay Safe!

Tame Hike; Wild Weather: Kepler Track to Luxmore Hut, Fiordland NP, South Island, NZ

April 7, 2026April 12, 2026livevigorously

Distance from the Te Anau Control Gates to Luxmore Hut: 16 Miles Round-trip

Total Distance of the Multiday Loop: ~37 Miles

Elevation Gain: 3K Ft (Total for Multiday Loop: ~7K Ft)

Difficulty: Moderate (Depending on your fitness level.)

The 37-mile Kepler Track loop in Fiordland National Park is one of New Zealand’s 11 “Great Walks”—a network of meticulously maintained multi-day routes designed to showcase the country’s most spectacular landscapes. Across these trails, hikers move through a range of terrain, from the volcanic drama of the Tongariro Northern Circuit to Kepler’s alpine ridgelines and Fiordland views, coastal forests, glacier-carved valleys, and more.

I hiked 16 miles of the Kepler Track to Luxmore Hut, which sits in a fully exposed alpine basin at 3,560 feet overlooking the deep blue expanse of Lake Te Anau and Fiords below.

You might question, as I did, “Alpine?” How can 3,560 feet possibly qualify? I had always assumed alpine conditions were strictly tied to high altitude. I was surprised to find that they’re not. “Alpine” refers instead to environments above the natural tree line that are defined by intense, volatile weather, strong winds, and exposure, regardless of how many feet above sea level they sit. That’s how, despite its modest altitude, the Luxmore Hut qualifies as alpine. (You’re welcome.) Both the Kepler ridgeline and Luxmore Hut are subject (as I was soon to discover) to the wild vagaries of Mother Nature…As is the Tama Lakes hike, I did on the North Island, with 4,724 feet being the high point there.

A “walk in the park” until…

The hike begins as a true “walk in the park,” following pristine, well-groomed trails through beech forest and fern-lined trails that never stray too far from the lovely, sparkling shores of Lake Te Anau, the second-largest lake in New Zealand and the largest in the South Island.

In a mile and a half, the path brings you to the beach of Dock Bay (an easy family destination for picnics and swimming). At the 3-mile point, you’ll reach Brod Bay, which has 15 tent sites (reservations required), a cooking shelter, picnic tables, and a couple of port-o-potties. Despite the picturesque beauty, you may not want to set up camp here literally or figuratively as the sandflies are described as intense, relentless, and ferocious. I didn’t linger to find out.

Pro Tip: If you’re short on time and lucky enough to catch a water taxi from Te Anau to Brod Bay, you can cut off the first 3 miles of the hike and start at Brod Bay.

From Brod Bay, it’s 5 miles and 2,791 ft elevation gain to the Luxmore Hut. This is where the climb begins, but the grade is gentle for the most part, and there’s a short set of stairs to climb.

From the forest, you emerge onto the tussock-covered ridgeline with spectacular views of Lake Te Anau and Fiordland.

Pro Tip: Be prepared for sudden weather shifts with strong winds, rain, hail, or snow at the alpine level.

The moment I emerged from the protection of the forest onto the ridge, I was nearly blasted off it by cold, gale-force winds. The cloud bank was coming in fast. I had about a mile to go to reach the hut and was about to turn around when I ran into a hiker on his return trip who told me, “It’s just over the next hill…” (Note, in the video below, I’m a bit tongue-tied due to exertion and the wind; it’s Luxmore Hut, not Luxemburg Hut.)

I made it to Luxmore Hut, but I didn’t linger there either, as I wasn’t sure how bad the weather would get. Rain started mixing with the wild wind as I scurried back across the ridge.

As soon as I dropped into the forest, it was like being transported to a safe haven. Yes, it was still raining, but not much moisture was making it through the forest canopy, and almost none of the wind was getting through.

Kepler Hut & Brod Bay Campsites Reservation Information at the Department of Conservation website. Reservations open in May for teh following season.

By the time I reached Brods Bay, though, the rain was heavier and more persistent. The previously serene lake looked more like an ocean with surfable white-water waves clobbering the shore. Happy, I wasn’t camping there and grateful for my rain jacket.

The Great Walks season is late October to April. Winter (May–October) is for experienced mountaineers only-requiring experience with snow, ice, avalanche hazards, and navigation. Consensus is that the moderate Kepler Track is more difficult than the Milford and Routeburn Tracks. While I did slightly less than half the miles and elevation gain of the whole Kepler Track, if the other half is similar, I’d rate it easy to moderate. For context, I’m used to the rugged terrain of Utah. So far, the groomed foot-friendly trails of the Kepler Track and the Tama Lakes Track have blown me away (almost literally, as you’ll see from the videos above) with how easy they are on the feet, knees, and body. I wore my Nike trail runners. It was dreamy, even in the wind and rain.

Getting There: The trailhead is at the Te Anau Control Gates a 3 mile drive or walk from Te Anau town center.

With its many restaurants and shops, the village of Te Anau itself is charming for a walkabout. Plenty of spots to come in out of the rain and refuel after a full, windy, wet day on the trail. Italian was the call that evening.

Happy Trails! Stay tuned for more New Zealand adventures!

Terrific Tama Lakes Track, Tongariro National Park, North Island, NZ

March 22, 2026March 22, 2026livevigorously

Distance: ~11 Miles

Elevation Gain: ~1,800 ft

Difficulty: Easy to Moderate (depending on your fitness level). The trail is so gradual, I didn’t notice the elevation gain until the last half-mile climb up loose, rocky scree to Upper Tama Lake.

When we learned that the Tongariro Alpine Crossing—widely considered the park’s top hike—was closed due to high winds and poor weather, the Tama Lakes Track became our backup plan. It didn’t disappoint. (AllTrails rates it #3 behind both the Tongariro Alpine Crossing #1 and #2 Taranaki Falls. I would rate it higher than the falls. But they’re both gorgeous!

With sweeping views of Lower and Upper Tama Lakes, Mount Ruapehu and Mount Ngauruhoe, and the narrow gorge of the dazzling Wairere Stream, the hike more than delivered. While the Tongariro Alpine Crossing may be more dramatic, it’s also barren and often crowded. Of course, there were a fair number of people on the Tama Lakes Trail, likely due to the Crossing’s closure.

For most of the route, the terrain is a relatively gentle gravel path that’s runnable, with easy footing.

An invigorating scene, the trail crosses over the narrow gorge of the dazzling Wairere Stream.

That changes during the final half-mile climb from Lower to Upper Tama Lake, where the trail steepens into loose, rocky scree that demands more attention and effort.

Here’s a video of the view from Upper Tama to Lower as the weather was changing.

You can also check out Taranaki Falls along the way. I highly recommend doing it on the way back, as the weather moves quickly here. In fact, it can turn in an instant, as I experienced, waiting for a friend to make the climb to Upper Tama. I watched his bright yellow rain jacket vanish into a wall of fog. One moment, the skies were clear; the next, the fog rolled in, and visibility was nil.

It’s easy to see how conditions like this can catch hikers off guard—whether from sudden exposure, hypothermia, or simply losing their bearings. Come prepared with layers and proper rain and wind gear, and don’t hesitate to turn back if conditions deteriorate.

Getting there: The trail starts from the road about 100 yards below the Whakapapa Visitor Centre.

Happy Trails!

Easy Waterfall Hikes With Ravishing Rewards, Tongariro National Park, NZ: Tawhai & Taranaki Falls

March 8, 2026April 7, 2026livevigorously

Founded in 1887 and officially established in 1894, Tongariro is New Zealand’s oldest national park and the 4th in the world. It is a dual UNESCO World Heritage site, recognized for both its outstanding natural volcanic features, including 3 active volcanoes: Mt. Ruapehu, Mt. Ngauruhoe, and Mt. Tongariro, and its cultural significance to the native Māori people.

Tawhai Falls Distance: < .50 Mile (Ranking 6th of the Top Hikes in Tongariro National Park per AllTrails.)

Up for a tame, super short stroll to a lovely waterfall? Tawhai Falls won’t disappoint. It’s an easy walk through the forest on a smooth trail to see the gorgeous, rushing, crystal-clear, turquoise waters of this 42-foot-high waterfall. You can take in the views from the top viewing platform and then follow the water’s journey to the base of the falls.

Getting to Tawhai Falls: It’s right off the SH48, about 2.5 miles below Whakapapa Village. Look for the large sign.

Taranaki Falls Distance: 3.73 Miles (The #2 Top Hike in the Park per AllTrails.)

Another tame and short walk to a waterfall is Taranaki Falls. Here, you’ll walk through the tussock (a golden, coppery red ornamental grass that is native to New Zealand) and alpine shrublands, enjoying expansive views of mountains and the beech forest, until you come to the star of the show— the dramatic 65 ft Taranaki Falls tumble down from top of the volcanic cliffs (formed by the Ruapehu eruption of 15,000 years ago) to a natural, boulder-ringed pool below.

In my opinion, this loop is most scenic clockwise, with the reward of rounding a corner for the big reveal (versus the anticlimax of seeing the comparatively anticlimactic top of the falls first). From the falls, the track climbs up to loop back, or you can continue your hike on the Tama Lakes Track (post to come).

Getting there: The trail starts from the road about 100 yards below the Whakapapa Visitor Centre.

Happy Trails and Waterfall Chasing!

A Quick Jaunt Up Lassen Peak Rewards With Panormaic Views, Lassen Volcanic National Park, CA

February 2, 2026livevigorously

Distance: 5 miles

Elevation Gain: 1,957 ft (8,500 ft at the trailhead to 10,457 ft at the peak)

Difficulty: Moderate to difficult, depending on your fitness level and altitude acclimation.

(LVNP rates it as strenuous and suggests 4-5 hours. It took us 2 hours – the threat of a storm kept us on pace.)

When it’s your last day in LVNP, and you haven’t “bagged” Lassen Peak yet, you make a run for it. And so we did. Actually, it was more of a fast walk than a trot, but a steady pace to try and outpace a looming monsoon. Mission accomplished. This was a fun hike and a solid workout. In my opinion, the trail is runnable – mostly smooth gravel with some short rocky sections. It’s a moderate, though consistent, incline with sweeping switchbacks. (Unfortunately, my knees no longer sanction running, so I have to settle for brisk walking.)

Since we had just hiked the Ridge Lakes Trail with 1k of elevation gain, we were warmed up for the climb. If you’re just hopping out of the car, you may want to take a little stretch band stroll before you hop on the “hill”.

The immediate scenery is a bit stark, but the panoramic views are splendid.