If you’re rolling into Capitol Reef at sunset or wrapping up a day of hiking but still have some energy left, the Chimney Rock Trail is a short, sweet hike that offers stunning panoramic sunset views. If you’re really short on time, you can take the official sunset “hike” in the park, Sunset Point Overlook—an easy half-mile trail that offers similar breathtaking vistas.
Chasing sunsets on the trails and yoga pose photobombing are two of my favorite things! What silly things do you do to express your exuberance in the wild?
Wizard Island, named for its resemblance to a wizard’s hat, is a striking volcanic cinder cone rising from the western side of Crater Lake in Oregon’s Crater Lake National Park. It was formed over 7,700 years ago during the cataclysmic eruption of Mount Mazama.
Exploring Wizard Island is one of the most unforgettable ways to experience Crater Lake up close — from its pristine shoreline to the sweeping panoramic views from the rim. It’s easily one of the top highlights of the entire park. I’m so glad my friend insisted we make the boat trip out there!
Unfortunately, the Cleetwood Cove Trail — the only public access point to the water at Crater Lake — is now closed for the 2025 season and may remain closed for up to three years due to a major rehabilitation project. As a result, boat tours to Wizard Island are suspended until the trail reopens.
I was lucky enough to visit Crater National Park this past August, just before the closure. The excursion to Wizard Island was, without a doubt, the highlight of my trip there. While I enjoyed a few beautiful hikes in the Park (posts coming soon), it was on Wizard Island that I truly felt the spellbinding magic of Crater Lake. The colors are spectacular—the many blues of the water and the neon green of the moss and trees are surreal.
What truly made the visit unforgettable was standing on Wizard Island, surrounded by mesmerizing views of Crater Lake, and then immersing myself in the deepest, bluest, purest lake in the country (in the refreshing summer temps of ~57 F)—priceless.
Cleetwood Cove Trail
Distance: 2.2 miles RT
Elevation Gain: ~700 ft on the return (comparable to 65 flights of stairs)
Difficulty: NPS lists this hike as “steep and strenuous”, AllTrails lists it as “moderate” – it depends on your fitness level and altitude sensitivity. (It’s easy footing, and runnable though the pumice surface can be slippery.) I’d rate it easy++.
To the Top of the Wizard’s “Hat” (Cindercone Rim) & Lower Cove area, Wizard Island
Distance: 3.6 miles
Elevation Gain: 798 ft
Is Crater Lake National Park Worth Visiting If You Can’t Get To Wizard Island?
Knowing what I know now, would I visit Crater Lake if I couldn’t get to Wizard Island? Probably not. While the hike samplers I took in the park (posts to come) were wonderful, I don’t find them compelling enough to warrant a special trip here. Disclaimer: I would never discourage a visit to a national park if you’re in the area, but if you need help deciding when and where to go, and what to prioritize, this might be helpful. Also, if you feel Crater Lake is absolutely worth it, even if you can’t get to Wizard Island, comment below to let people know.
Notes: Boat reservations to Wizard Island must be made in advance. Since it’s likely the park will have a new system in place when the trail and boat excursions reopen, here’s a direct link to CLNP.
Swimming is only allowed within 100 yards of Cleetwood Cove and within 100 yards of Wizard Island. To keep the water pristine, the following items are not allowed: scuba and snorkeling gear, wet suits, masks, goggles, fins, inner tubes, kayaks, canoes, inflatable rafts, SUPs, flotation devices, personal life jackets or vests, waders, and personal boats.
Pro tip (wink): Apparently, it’s a “thing” to wear a Wizard’s hat to Wizard Island. There’s plenty of time for you to find one before it reopens if you’re so inclined. (No, I didn’t wear one.)
Biking day 4 withTop Bike Tours Portugalwas tops in my book, yet again. The day began with a steep, mist-shrouded climb up a slick cobblestone street to the ruins of the 12th-century Castle de Aljezur.
If you’re wondering what it’s like to ride straight uphill on damp, sandy cobblestones—it’s no joke. Especially if you’re not clipped in or riding an e-bike. I now have a whole new respect for the Tour de France riders.
This was one of only two hills that got the best of me on this trip (both cobblestone), not a bad record considering how many steep hills we encountered, my knee issues, and being unclipped. I made it about a third of the way, just behind one e-biker and one clipped-in cyclist. Then my tire slipped. I lost traction and had to surrender to the dreaded walk of shame for the final climb portion. Sigh. How steep and slippery was it? Let’s put it this way, many of our e-bikers ended up walking it too.
The ruins were interesting and the view from the top was lovely—lush green fields stretching out below, and the white-washed village of Aljezur nestled peacefully in the valley.
Fortunately, our route didn’t take us back down that treacherous cobblestone. Descending the same way would’ve been an entirely different kind of adventure.
We went from that crazy cobblestone climb to cruising sweet, less-traveled, wide, paved roads down to the coast, stopping for coffee and snacks in a small surf village.
After pedaling through the charming village of Arrifana, we followed a pristine gravel path that wound through a quiet forest and eventually opened to the stunning coast. Our lunch spot awaited us on a seaside cliff, perched above the ruins of an ancient Islamic fishing village dating back to the 12th and 13th centuries.
Our lunch times were drifting later and later into the afternoons. To emphasize the freshness of the day’s catch, our waiter brought “a portion” of it straight to the table—huge half fish in hand. Famished, I went all in on a decadent seafood pasta, which I devoured almost as quickly as it arrived.
Much to my delight, our next stop was a surf beach in Carrapateira. Even though we only had half an hour to play in the waves—and it had been years since I last surfed—I couldn’t resist. I rented a wetsuit and a board and jumped right in, and managed to get up on my first wave. Yes, I was a bit of a “kook” after all these years, but I had a blast, and the water wasn’t nearly as cold as I’d expected.
With 30 miles covered, we still had 8 cross-country miles to go before reaching our lodging for the night.
Saving the best for last, we charged along winding singletrack, through wildflower-strewn fields and splashy water crossings—an exhilarating finish to the day. Our reward? Cozy countryside accommodations and a well-earned dinner at the “Inn’s” welcoming restaurant.
What a day! Any portion of it would have been incredible on its own — but packing all that fun into a single day? Next level. From exploring castle ruins and cruising through coastal villages to riding cross-country through quiet forest trails, enjoying a decadent seaside lunch above ancient ruins, sneaking in an afternoon surf session, and capping it all off with a sunset mountain bike style ride through the countryside, followed by a fantastic dinner — oh my! Top Bike Tours Portugal delivers one epic day after another!
Castle Lake to Heart Lake, Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Mt. Shasta City, CA
Distance: <2.5 RT
Elevation Gain: ~680 ft
Difficulty: Easy to moderate, depending on your fitness level and sensitivity to altitude (5k-6k ft)
I discovered another gem of a hike in the Shasta-Trinity National Forest, some have called it one of the premier hikes in the region. I guess I know how to pick them. It’s easy on effort and short on distance, but long on rewards. Especially if you’re into alpine lakes, reflection shots, and great views of Mt. Shasta, Black Butte, and Mount McLoughlin.
The single-track trail winds through a few rocky stretches, gradually climbing to captivating Heart Lake at an elevation of 6,050 ft, where you’ll be dazzled by the reflections.
If you have more time than I did, you can take dip in any of the lakes, hike the spur trail to Little Castle Lake (add 2 miles RT and a steep 250 ft climb) or continue to Mount Bradley (add 8 miles RT).
(I had less than 2 hours to sneak in a hike before dashing to the airport, so I wanted to make the most of it. Mission accomplished with this lovely hike that I paired with the super shortie hike just down the road on the way back to town—enchanting Faery Falls.)
After a solid night’s sleep and another heavenly breakfast buffet, we hit the road for biking day 3 with Top Bike Tours Portugal.
We rolled through peaceful countryside and farmland on a mix of paved roads and dusty trails.
After huffing our way up a steep cobblestone hill —legs burning (well, those of us on regular bikes that is), spirits high—we were rewarded with a surprise at the top: a cluster of unlikely expats appearing like a mirage. Apparently, residents of the Safari Lodge Kuanza.
Our next surprise was a private tour of the legendary “Queen of Fado”, Amália Rodrigues’ spectacular cliffside estate. Telmo casually tapped in the code at the remote entrance gate and guided us in. Privileged!
Amália wasn’t just a singer; she was a force of nature. A poet, lyricist, actress, and Portugal’s most iconic voice, she poured raw emotion into every note of Lisbon’s soulful folk music. Her songs of longing and love captivated not just Portugal but the entire world, earning her accolades and honors from every corner of the globe.
Before the grand house took shape in the 1960s, Amália made her home in this cozy “cottage” tucked into the property.
Sign me up! Is there a more splendid setting than this for a B&B? Imagine waking up to the sounds of waves crashing into the shore of the rugged wild beach below, and surveying the last untouched, preserved coastal stretch of the Algarve, Vicentina Coast Natural Park. Oh my! If you’re in the area, I highly recommend that you book a room or at least take a tour.
The estate is hosted by Amalia’s charming cousin and engaging storyteller, Antonio Felipe Gomes, who gives tours and shares highlights and personal anecdotes of Amalia’s life and legacy.
From “Herdade Amalia’s”, we continued our cycling journey along dirt roads with grand views of the coast, whitewashed houses, and verdant countryside.
Our next surprise stop was at Junior Jaques Medronho Distillery, where one of the owners, Alfonso, passionately shared the story behind their journey to honor a cultural pastime and involve the local community in its revival. At the heart of it all is medronho, the fruit of the wild medronho tree.
Smoother than vodka, richer than whiskey with a fruity kick that leaves gin in the dust, it’s a flavor that tells a story. For centuries, locals in this region have handpicked medronho berries, using them in everything from homemade recipes to secret family distillations. Now, thanks to Alfonso and his team, that age-old tradition is being shared with the world, one handpicked berry and one sip at a time.
Of course, the experience couldn’t be considered complete without a tasting—there were a few varieties to sample. We politely sipped the tantalizing, heady spirits—it was 2PM, we’d long since burned off our breakfast buffet, and we still had a couple of miles to ride before lunch.
From the distillery, we rode back down the gravel road, crossed a short bridge, and followed a narrow, surprisingly busy, paved road into the picturesque village of Oxienta, nestled between the sea and the River Seixe.
At this point, we were all a bit overeager for lunch. The hollowness of our bellies had been punctuated by the intensity of the medronho spirits.
Along the road into the village was an amazing, vibrant, dynamic 260-foot mural. The group rode on, but I had to stop to marvel and capture pictures, only fragments, which don’t do justice to the splendor, scale, energy, or impact of this magnificent work of art.
A serene, beautiful native woman framed by hibiscus (mother nature?), and two birds anchors the far left of the mural, blue and red foxes spring into the air over mushrooms on either side of a hybrid fox man holding a rooster, a sea bird feeds her young, and at the other end a white-bearded, wool- capped fisherman amidst colorful fish and birds in flight (didn’t capture that section). See the entire span of the mural and learn about the artist, OZEARV, and his work here and on IG as OzeArv.
Commissioned by the Odeceixe Parish Board, Lisbon-born artist OZEARV, describes his work, “110 Steps to the Sea” on IG as follows: “[…]a reflection on the natural landscape and the socio-cultural fabric of the territory. I intended to celebrate the biodiversity[…]A painting that accompanies the River Seixe in which I tried to convey the feelings inherent to the transition from the past to modernity, reflecting the customs and traditions of the village that marks the border between Alentejo and the Algarve and what I consider to be a meeting place, inclusion and respect for nature. [Also, from the first to the last step, this is a mural that reflects on the journey of life, even if you are a human or any other animal, it’s part of life to take that walk from birth till death.
I would humbly ask the Odeceixe Parish Board to consider creating a walking and cycling path across from the mural so you can appreciate the artwork at your own pace without concern for traffic. After hastily snapping my pics of the mural, I joined the others for lunch in the delightful village square.
I devoured a fresh poke bowl.
After lunch, came a bit of unintended excitement.
We kicked off the final stretch of the day toward our overnight stop in Aljezur—riding along a fast, smooth, scenic section that hugged the river and ended with a punchy little climb that came out of nowhere. The group was riding faster than they had yet. (Yes, all but 3 of us were on ebikes, but despite being on ebikes, their pace had been surprisingly slow previously. You’ll understand why this is relevant in a moment.)
Just as we were gearing up for that ascent, I noticed something strange: no sign of Bradley. Usually, at the front of the pack with his clip-in bike shoes and steady pace, he was MIA. I turned around and sprinted back, calling out and checking with everyone I passed. Even our trusty volunteer “sweeper” gave me a clueless “nope” (though I’m pretty sure he mentally handed in his sweeper duties right then and there). Where’s Bradley?
So, off I went again—sprinting back up now to catch our fearless leader, Telmo, who was already powering up that hill. I shouted, but the wind swallowed the sound. It took some serious effort, but I finally caught up with him, and between gasps for air, I explained the situation. Cool and collected as ever, Telmo gathered the group in a scenic pullout to wait, then turned back and took off like a hero on a rescue mission.
With no cell service, it felt a bit hectic for a minute… until, moments later, who rolls up in the van with Pedro but Bradley, grinning sheepishly. Turns out he was head down strapping on his bike shoes when we disappeared into the cobblestone mini maze, all of us assuming he was right behind us. Luckily, he saw Pedro, our ever-reliable driver, and the van just around the corner. In the end, Telmo and I got some bonus cardio, and Bradley has a story to tell about that time he was “almost stranded” on a bike tour in Portugal.
After that hill I mentioned, the scenic, winding road continued to climb steadily for a few miles. Then suddenly, we were flying, soaring downhill for miles on a world-class descent straight into Aljezur. I do believe it was the longest downhill I’ve ever ridden. So smooth and fast that you forget every uphill pedal stroke that came before it. (Would certainly make for an “interesting” ascent.)
Whoohoo, what a day! We had just enough time to check in, freshen up, and swap out our bike outfits for something civilian. As the sun dipped low, we wandered over to the restaurant.
The restaurant was quite unassuming from the outside. Our host greeted us with a knowing smile and led us through a discreet side entrance. We ducked under the low stone arch entrance and stepped down into a hidden underground cavern with a private dining area for our group—it felt like we were guests in a medieval castle. Yet another unexpected and enchanting twist to end the day.
While the details of this meal are a bit fuzzy (we were all a bit wiped out from our full day at that point), I do recall the stroll back to the hotel in the magical moonlight.
Speaking of castles, little did we know then that the next morning’s first stop after a brutally steep cobblestone climb would be the ruins of an old fortress. Stay tuned for Biking Day 4 with Top Bike Tours Portugal.
Happy Adventures on Foot or Wheels! Loving Portugal! Can you tell?
On the Loose Live 