The Waitomo Cave Experience—Wet & Wild Subterranean Adventure, North Island, NZ

Disclaimer: none of the photos were taken by me, as we had to leave our cameras behind. In hindsight, that was for the best—having both hands free was essential given the slippery, wet, uneven, rocky terrain, and the crawling, wading, and swimming sections.

First Some Cave Context

Years ago, while traveling in Thailand, I explored a couple of miles of the Chiang Dao Cave—fascinating and not especially sketchy (unless you count the thousands of bats and the one tight crawl space).

Then, a year later, along with the rest of the world, I followed the nine-day saga of the boys’ soccer team trapped in a similar cave after monsoon rains flooded it. I remember thinking, “Yeah… I probably won’t be going into a cave again anytime soon.

Well, nearly ten years later, here I am at the Waitomo Cave Experience. My travel partner chose this one, and I wasn’t about to be a spoil sport. So, I wrestled myself into a thick, heavy wetsuit, squeezed on the white rubber “go-go” boots, and trudged off in slow motion with the rest of our oversized sloth of a group, crossing the oddly undulating pasture—hinting at the contours of the cave below—toward the woods.

At the edge of the woods, we climbed down a steel ladder, descending into the pitch-black, damp abyss of the Okohua Cave, and the adventure began… We switched on our headlamps—bright third eyes piercing the darkness and, just as often, blinding one another.

After casually warning us to stay put if anything happened to him, our guide led us into the narrow, watery “slot canyons” of the 30-million-year-old limestone grotto.

“Watch your head!” “Watch your footing!” And “Hands off!” the dripping stalactites and other stalagmite formations. It was slow going.

We stopped several times to turn off our headlamps and gaze up at the dark “sky” bespeckled with tiny lights from thousands of bioluminescent Arachnocampa luminosa (glow worm) larvae. (“Better worms than bats, I say.”) It was a lovely sight indeed.

Later, we’d enter a canyon with deep water where inner tubes were waiting for us for a cruise down glow worm alley. It was magical and mesmerizing. The once chatty group fell silent in awe.

Photo Credits: The Waitomo Cave Experience website.

If you’re slightly claustrophobic like me, adding water to the equation amplifies it…as do the low ceilings and narrow tunnels. Of course, learning that you’ll be underground for over 3 hours and knowing that you can’t simply, easily, and quickly exit also contributes to that constricting feeling…Not to mention the heavy wetsuit weighing you down…

As a yogi, I practiced my relaxation breathing and tried to stay in the moment. There were a couple of opportunities to bypass the tighter, belly crawling, face-first-into-the murky water routes, but, well, where’s the fun in that?

It was an amazing adventure for sure, but I probably won’t be going into another cave anytime soon…(Yeah, I know…)

Happy Adventuring!

Terrific Tama Lakes Track, Tongariro National Park, North Island, NZ

Distance: ~11 Miles

Elevation Gain: ~1,800 ft

Difficulty: Easy to Moderate (depending on your fitness level). The trail is so gradual, I didn’t notice the elevation gain until the last half-mile climb up loose, rocky scree to Upper Tama Lake.

When we learned that the Tongariro Alpine Crossing—widely considered the park’s top hike—was closed due to high winds and poor weather, the Tama Lakes Track became our backup plan. It didn’t disappoint. (AllTrails rates it #3 behind both the Tongariro Alpine Crossing #1 and #2 Taranaki Falls. I would rate it higher than the falls. But they’re both gorgeous!

With sweeping views of Lower and Upper Tama Lakes, Mount Ruapehu and Mount Ngauruhoe, and the narrow gorge of the dazzling Wairere Stream, the hike more than delivered. While the Tongariro Alpine Crossing may be more dramatic, it’s also barren and often crowded. Of course, there were a fair number of people on the Tama Lakes Trail, likely due to the Crossing’s closure.

For most of the route, the terrain is a relatively gentle gravel path that’s runnable, with easy footing.

An invigorating scene, the trail crosses over the narrow gorge of the dazzling Wairere Stream.

That changes during the final half-mile climb from Lower to Upper Tama Lake, where the trail steepens into loose, rocky scree that demands more attention and effort.

Here’s a video of the view from Upper Tama to Lower as the weather was changing.

You can also check out Taranaki Falls along the way. I highly recommend doing it on the way back, as the weather moves quickly here. In fact, it can turn in an instant, as I experienced, waiting for a friend to make the climb to Upper Tama. I watched his bright yellow rain jacket vanish into a wall of fog. One moment, the skies were clear; the next, the fog rolled in, and visibility was nil.

It’s easy to see how conditions like this can catch hikers off guard—whether from sudden exposure, hypothermia, or simply losing their bearings. Come prepared with layers and proper rain and wind gear, and don’t hesitate to turn back if conditions deteriorate.

Getting there: The trail starts from the road about 100 yards below the Whakapapa Visitor Centre.

Happy Trails!

Easy Waterfall Hikes With Ravishing Rewards, Tongariro National Park, NZ: Tawhai & Taranaki Falls

Founded in 1887 and officially established in 1894, Tongariro is New Zealand’s oldest national park and the 4th in the world. It is a dual UNESCO World Heritage site, recognized for both its outstanding natural volcanic features, including 3 active volcanoes: Mt. Ruapehu, Mt. Ngauruhoe, and Mt. Tongariro, and its cultural significance to the native Māori people.

Tawhai Falls                  Distance: < .50 Mile                               (Ranking 6th of the Top Hikes in Tongariro National Park per AllTrails.)

Up for a tame, super short stroll to a lovely waterfall? Tawhai Falls won’t disappoint. It’s an easy walk through the forest on a smooth trail to see the gorgeous, rushing, crystal-clear, turquoise waters of this 42-foot-high waterfall. You can take in the views from the top viewing platform and then follow the water’s journey to the base of the falls.

Getting to Tawhai Falls: It’s right off the SH48, about 2.5 miles below Whakapapa Village. Look for the large sign.

Taranaki Falls              Distance: 3.73 Miles (The #2 Top Hike in the Park per AllTrails.)

Another tame and short walk to a waterfall is Taranaki Falls. Here, you’ll walk through the tussock (a golden, coppery red ornamental grass that is native to New Zealand) and alpine shrublands, enjoying expansive views of mountains and the beech forest, until you come to the star of the show— the dramatic 65 ft Taranaki Falls tumble down from top of the volcanic cliffs (formed by the Ruapehu eruption of 15,000  years ago) to a natural, boulder-ringed pool below.

In my opinion, this loop is most scenic clockwise, with the reward of rounding a corner for the big reveal (versus the anticlimax of seeing the comparatively anticlimactic top of the falls first). From the falls, the track climbs up to loop back, or you can continue your hike on the Tama Lakes Track (post to come).

Getting there: The trail starts from the road about 100 yards below the Whakapapa Visitor Centre.

Happy Trails and Waterfall Chasing!

At the Intersection of Art and Nature: Harry Bertoia, Mid Century Modern Italian Artist, The Harry Bertoia Foundation, St. George, UT

Have you heard of the Italian artist Harry Bertoia? I hadn’t, but am so glad I was introduced to his eclectic works by none other than his daughter, Celia Bertoia, who runs the Harry Bertoia Foundation right here in St. George. Harry Bertoia was a renowned Mid Century Modern Italian artist whose favorite medium was metal. During the war, when metal was scarce, he created prints, which he called monotypes. A prolific and selfless artist, Harry Bertoia preferred not to title or sign his art because it came from “the great Oneness,” and he wanted the audience to experience it and interpret it freely.

From jewelry to chairs and sculptures—especially his mesmerizing “Sonambient” sounding sculptures (check out the videos and learn more)—his artistry fascinates and engages on all levels: visual, tactile, and auditory.

A few of Harry Bertoia’s notable artistic achievements

  • Wedding rings for the artist Ray Eames and his wife
  • The iconic 1952 Diamond Chair for Knoll—a staple of 1950s modern furniture—
  • 50 large-scale public commissions
  • The Sonambient Barn

[Pictures of the artist and his works courtesy of the Harry Bertoia Foundation.]

While all his artwork is compelling, the “Sonambient” sounding sculptures drew me in the most. I love that Harry Bertoia coined the term sonambient (Latin root words for sound and environment) to refer to his sound sculptures (varying in size from delicate rods to thunderous gongs up to 10 feet in diameter).  I immediately connected to their natural shapes and movement—some evocative of reeds and cattails, swaying in the breeze. Celia was gracious enough to treat me to a private concert/sound bath, playing each sculpture into a splendid symphony. The deeply resonant tones of the sculptures struck chords of connection in my soul. The experience made an indelible imprint on me – as if the sounds of the tonals are still reverberating through me. What beautiful gifts this selfless artist left us. Grateful to him and his daughter, Celia, for preserving his legacy.

Learn more about Harry Bertoia, his artwork, and his life.

If you’re in the Saint George area, stop by the Harry Bertoia Foundation.  You’re invited to Harry Bertoia’s Birthday Bash at the Foundation, March 10, 12-4. 1449 N. 1400 W #11, Saint George, UT 435-673-2355

Bang one of Harry’s gongs at Red Hills Desert Garden, 375 E Red Hills Parkway, St George, UT.

Check out the Harry Bertoia: Master of Metal Documentary.

A Quick Jaunt Up Lassen Peak Rewards With Panormaic Views, Lassen Volcanic National Park, CA

Distance: 5 miles

Elevation Gain: 1,957 ft (8,500 ft at the trailhead to 10,457 ft at the peak)

Difficulty: Moderate to difficult, depending on your fitness level and altitude acclimation.

(LVNP rates it as strenuous and suggests 4-5 hours. It took us 2 hours – the threat of a storm kept us on pace.)

When it’s your last day in LVNP, and you haven’t “bagged” Lassen Peak yet, you make a run for it. And so we did. Actually, it was more of a fast walk than a trot, but a steady pace to try and outpace a looming monsoon. Mission accomplished. This was a fun hike and a solid workout. In my opinion, the trail is runnable – mostly smooth gravel with some short rocky sections. It’s a moderate, though consistent, incline with sweeping switchbacks. (Unfortunately, my knees no longer sanction running, so I have to settle for brisk walking.)

Since we had just hiked the Ridge Lakes Trail with 1k of elevation gain, we were warmed up for the climb. If you’re just hopping out of the car, you may want to take a little stretch band stroll before you hop on the “hill”.

The immediate scenery is a bit stark, but the panoramic views are splendid.

Happy Trails!