Vincente Coast & Algarve With Top Bike Tours Portugal: Arrival Day

SPOILER ALERT: This was one of the best bike tours and active vacations I’ve ever taken by far—the guides and support van, the challenging, engaging road and gravel routes, the quality of the hotels and restaurants, the spectacular scenery, and ALL the cultural add-ons – private tour of Amalia Rodrigues, Portugal’s “Queen of Fado” spectacular Frank Lloyd Write inspired cliffside. seaside home,  the surprise private Fado concert, fortress tour, winery & distillery tours, etc. (As you probably know by now, I’ve taken a few bike tours and travel adventures, including Cuba, Thailand, etc.) Top Bike Tours Portugal exceeded expectations across the board. (Note: I tried to be expectations-free, but let’s face it, I’m spoiled by all the beautiful places I’ve seen and the excellent adventures I’ve been privileged to have.)

Thelmo, Pedro, and Top Bike Tours made my first encounter with Portugal not only unforgettable, but it’s no overstatement to say, life-changing, as it was a scouting trip for me to find a new EU adventure base camp and home.

From the warmth of the people, the ravishing, pristine beauty of the coastlines, the exquisite cuisine, the extensive and challenging road and gravel biking, the surfing, and the enchanting, white-washed villages, I was spellbound. I left my heart in Portugal, and I’ll reunite with it sometime in the not-too-distant future… In the meantime, I’ll relive my incredible journey along the Vincente Coast and the Algarve in the posts to come.  

How Did I Find Top Bike Tours Portugal?

After conducting some research, I chose Top Bike Tours Portugal because I’d read a couple of rave reviews on an international middleman site that mentioned the company and guide by name. I also wanted to go direct to ensure that the local company would receive the entirety of my payment. While self-guided options were available, since navigation isn’t my strong suit, I chose the guided option with full Support and Gear (SAG) Van, which was only about $100 more per day and so worth it for the added peace of mind.

A break in my work schedule allowed me to join the “reduced” (shorter version) of the Vincente Coast Algarve 8-Day Bike Tour at the last minute. (Those who know me know me as “Last Minute Lydia,” and the way this trip and scheduling my subsequent eye surgery in Prague (more on this later) came together was in my typical spontaneous “if the stars align” fashion.

Total Distance and Mileage: 141 miles with 8,290 feet of climbing.

Difficulty on regular bikes: Moderate ++, depending on your fitness level – the hills are no joke here, and they are plentiful – 16% grade was not an anomaly. Also, having some off-road bike handling experience is important. Many in our group were not experienced with the rougher terrain of off-road gravel biking, and exercised good judgment by walking the sketchier sections.

  • Day 1 – Arrival Lisbon and van transfer to Santiago do Cacém
  • Day 2 – Santiago do Cacém to Vila Nova de Mil Fontes
  • Day 3 – Vila Nova de Mil Fontes to Zambujeira do Mar
  • Day 4 – Zambujeira do Mar to Aljezur
  • Day 5 – Aljezur to Carrapateira
  • Day 6 – Carrapateira to Sagres
  • Day 7 – Sagres to Lagos
  • Day 8 – Departure

Arrival Day 1

We arrived at Lisbon Airport in the afternoon (after a long travel day from Utah) and were met by an Uber driver who took us to a hotel.

Then, we jumped in a van for the 2.5-hour ride to the charming Octant Hotel in Santiago do Cacem.

The featured image and the 2 images below are taken from my hotel room’s grass patio. In the distance, rooftops and a distant sea view. Across the way, a church and a castle dating back to the 5th century (didn’t realize it was there until I blew the photo up to write this blog).

At the hotel, we met with our guide, Thelmo, our support van driver, Pedro, and the rest of the tour group for introductions and bike fittings. Surprisingly, the group was comprised primarily of Americans (the exception being 2 Brazilian ladies). Out of the 14 of us, only 3, my friend Bradley, another fellow, and I opted for regular bikes; the rest chose e-bikes.

Much to my dismay, despite many valiant attempts by my friend, Bradley, and Thelmo and Pedro, the bike cleats I brought failed, so I would be left to ride on flat pedals without the knee-saving advantage of being clipped in. This would present quite a challenge on hills with my bone-on-bone knees, but I had to try. Of course, they offered me an e-bike, but, as you may know by now, I love challenges and being vigorous, and being a die-hard former triathlete and cyclist, I didn’t want to surrender my will to self-propel.

To shake off the effects of 24 hours of travel and give my legs a stretch, I took a quick walkabout before dinner. On my short scenic stroll, I encountered a couple of the well-fed local feral felines and discovered a windmill and Roman Ruins, which were closed for the night. I also saw what would be the first of many Cork Trees in the countryside. (Portugal is the world’s largest exporter of cork.) Cork trees typically take 25 years to reach maturity and then can be harvested every 10 years or so. The number on the tree connotes the next decade in which it can be harvested. Families that planted and cultivated cork trees leave an ecological, aesthetic, and financial legacy for whoever inherits or purchases the property, though climate change is beginning to compromise this, too.

And dinner, let’s just say my first taste of Portugal was savory, delicately seasoned, and one of the healthiest meals I’ve had in a long while. I enjoyed the pesto salad and grilled fresh fish, both of which were outstanding, while my friend savored the octopus. The fragrant local olive oil is the best I’ve tasted, and it added a wonderful, subtle flavor dimension to both the pesto and the fish.

And then it was off to bed for some much-needed sleep, dreaming of the days to come…

Happy Active Adventures!

Grand Canyon: South Kaibab Descent to Phantom Ranch With Bright Angel Ascent

Hike Report: Grand Views Spoilt by Noisy Crowds

Distance: ~16-17+ Miles (17.7 by my Garmin)

Elevation Loss & Gain: 4,700

Difficulty: Strenuous/hard due to distance, elevation change, sun exposure, heat

Grand views, but hiking the Grand Canyon is a bit of a circus. There are so many (way too many) people on the trails. It really detracts from the experience. (I’ll state the unpopular opinion that they should permit this hike, N.Rim, and Rim-to-Rim.)

I’ve been hiking (lengthy elevation gain hikes) and working out regularly (in anticipation of a possible Rim-to-Rim hike next month). This loop was an excellent training challenge. I have knee “issues”, so I wore knee braces. Fortunately, my knees were fine all the way down to Phantom Ranch (7.5 miles).

My hiking buddy and I arrived at Phantom Ranch after noon. We enjoyed two full 16-ounce glasses of refreshing lemonade (a must-do— $6 with a free refill!) I’d heard a lot about how cool Phantom Ranch is. It is a lovely, natural oasis with shady, gurgling Bright Angel Creek as backdrop and the comforts of campsites, rustic cabins, a restaurant, and a tiny store. Perhaps it’s charming when no one is around, but its charm was completely lost when I was there on an overrun weekend. The line for water refill there was at least 30 people long. I didn’t take any pictures at the ranch itself because I was so overwhelmed by the crowds

After downing 32 ounces of lemonade and a brief munchie break, we started climbing the switchbacks of Devil’s Corkscrew. By this time, the temperature was in the 90s. During the 3.5-mile climb up (1,300 ft), the completely exposed switchbacks, I slowed down, and my heart rate soared 20 points. By this point, my drinking water was the same temperature as my mouth. I couldn’t discern if I was drinking or if my Camelback Tube was twisted. Note, I was wearing a hat and a white shirt to deflect the sun’s rays. I don’t want to imagine what this section would feel like in triple-digit heat, which is common in the summer. I hadn’t acclimated to desert heat hiking yet because it was still Spring.

The second I came into the shade approaching Havasupai Gardens (water was available), my heart rate dropped 10 points. It returned to its active normal after I immersed my feet and my hat in the shallow stream. That immersion and the dragonfly below were the highlights here. We would have taken a longer break to wait for shadows to form on the steep Bright Angel Trail (4.5 miles, 3k elevation gain), but the area was completely overrun by noisy crowds. No pictures other than the dragonfly here, as I was too bummed out by the crowds. For me, it was the antithesis of a pleasant experience in nature.

We left in a hurry, eager to put the crowds behind me. I felt stronger on the climb out than when I hiked North Kaibab to Manzanita Springs out and back. My knees started complaining about a mile and a half from the top—poles might have helped.

After enjoying a celebratory ice cream at the top, my friend and I decided to “walk” to the parking lot, adding another 2.5 miles. That was the straw that broke the camel’s back for me. At about the 2-mile mark, both of my legs viciously cramped and seized, throwing me to the ground and rendering me helpless for at least 5-minutes, and hobbled for the remaining half-mile and day. If that had happened on the way up, I would have been incapacitated and might have required assistance. Scary. Why did it happen? Hard to say, but likely due to dehydration and lack of electrolytes. I had trouble drinking when I was overheated because my water was hot. next time, if there is one, I will bring metal containers to keep the water/electrolyte liquid cool.

Notes: Don’t underestimate the challenges of hiking in the Grand Canyon North or South, or Rim-to-Rim, especially in the summer. Even without extreme heat to factor in, hiking here is a serious undertaking. Don’t overestimate your abilities. Get as much elevation and heat training in as you can. Know your limits, hike with a buddy, and be prepared with adequate water, water purifier, electrolytes, and food. I wore trail running shoes with good tread. I prefer lighter footwear to heavy hiking boots and like having my hands free. The trails are mostly well-groomed. I did not use poles, but I might take them if I do Rim to Rim. Since I don’t do well drinking warm water, I’ll take on the extra weight of metal containers for cooler water next time.

“END” Notes

About a dozen people die in the Grand Canyon every year. The first cause of death is airplane and helicopter crashes (this comes in as first as it reflects the 128 deaths from the pre-FAA 1956 commercial airline collision). The second common causes are falls, jumps from, or driving off cliffs/ledges, and the third most common cause is due to the Grand Canyon’s extreme environmental hazards, including intense heat (temps can reach 120 degrees) dehydration/overhydration, cardiac arrest, flash floods, and lightning strikes.

Happy Trails & Safe Hiking!

The Cinder Cone, Diamond Valley, UT: Short hike that’s long on views

Yes, it’s right off highway 18 at Diamond Valley and super short—so yeah, those are the top 2 reasons not to go. But if you don’t, you’ll miss out big time as we often do when we fail to take those little spontaneous stops that beckon us from near and far. And sometimes, it’s those off the freeway and /or off the beaten track stops that yield the biggest rewards. Remembering my Kooteney Falls stop a couple years ago.

This hike is definitely short – a mere 1.7 miles, but as the spoiler alert headline says it’s LONG on panoramic views. Apologies for the fast spin, I was too excited!

Due to loose lava rock near the top, I’d suggest  hardy, grippy shoes . It’s starts out flat, takes you around the back on a mostly dirt trail and then starts climbing at the .60 mile point. Yes, you can make a scramble straight up &/or down, but you’ll likely leave some DNA on the lava rocks. And by nature of the scramble, leave another indented trail on the cone.

snow canyon from cinde cone
Views out across Snow Canyon

vistas from teh cinder cone trail
Pine Mountain views from the trail

contrasts om the cindercone trail
Pink fluff, black lava and Pine Mtn range vistas

L top of cindercone
Happy trails always

On Living YOUR Epic Life

I’m not one to throw the word epic around. (Disclaimer: I guess I’m guilty of overuse  when it comes to mountain bike ride descriptions: Tahoe’s Flume Trail  for 1.) In any case,  I don’t claim to be a “life coach”, but I know 1 thing —life is short and unpredictable.

My Dad had a debilitating stroke on the first night of the Hawaii vacation that my brother and I treated him too. He’d never really treated himself to anything in his entire life. And after the stroke and the paralysis he suffered, his ability to enjoy life or even take care of the most basic daily activities was severely diminished. If you’re waiting for something to happen until you do what you really want to do, let me suggest that you stop waiting and take the steps you need to take toward making it happen. Today.

Of course, I’ve procrastinated on following any number of my dreams too. But ever since Dad’s stroke and his subsequent death, my bike accidents, misc surgeries, etc. etc. (pile on effect), I’ve been determined to align my life and actions with my values. And that includes living somewhere where I’m closer to nature and able to live the outdoor, active lifestyle that I treasure. Sure, I’ve been fortunate to live a good part of my life in a place that many people consider dreamy – -Southern California. And I’d never taken its beauty and the many wonderful adventures I’ve had here for granted, but I’m ready for open horizons and roads—free from the excessive congestion that surrounds this place.

The  adventures I’ve had these past few years have have all been part of my quest to find my new home. I’ve road-tripped through Montana, Idaho, and Washington and found some delightful spots and top contenders, including Sandpoint ID, Port Angles WA, but none checked all my virtual boxes. Until St. George, UT. If you’ve been following my posts, it was a bit of a whirlwind romance. A year ago I visited, came back for seconds, and then I committed.

Yes, I’ve definitely had some second thoughts, self-doubt, and fleeting panic attacks, but I come back to that cliched  question – “If not now, when?” It’s a bizarre and unsettling time to be making a a major life transition, but I’m doing it. Last week, I moved about 60% of my stuff there and was fortunate to enjoy a couple mountain bike rides while I was there.

This 28 mile loop ride near Gunlock State Park was simply epic. See for yourself. It will likely be one of my top local rides.

I am happiest when I am immersed in nature’s beauty and being vigorously active. This is part of what living an epic life means to me. What does it mean to you and are you living it? If not, why not?

Chasing Waterfalls and Wildflowers: Three Sisters Falls Hike, SD County

San Diego County’s 3-tiered seasonal waterfall  in Cleveland National Forest is definitely worth a visit when the water is running.

3 sisters fall trailhead sign

 

 

 

 

 

At the beginning of the hike, these 3 lovely trees will greet you.

3 lovely trees 3 sisters hike

The falls are much more impressive than you might expect. As you hike down the trail, you can see the frothy, white veils in the distance.

 

For me, it was vaguely reminiscent of Yosemite. Of course, I was fortunate to experience the area after a rainy season, during the spring super bloom. The hillsides were green and sprinkled generously with wildflowers. If you’ve been following my superbloom posts (Walker Canyon, Diamond Valley Lake, Denk Mountain) this spring, you know I can’t get enough of these wildflowers. (I wasn’t expecting any on this hike and what a wonderful surprise to see the colorful abundance along the trail – perfect wildflower filters for my distant water shots.)

poppy filter 3 sistersbest wildflower filter 3 sistersCactus bloom 3 sisters

It’s a pleasant single-track, out & back trail that takes you down to the falls and then bring you back up to the parking area.

L with flowers on the trail 3 sisters

 

Lydia taking pics

 

 

 

 

rock falls 3 sistersfalls flower filter

The falls are a wonderful spot to have a picnic, cool off, and while away the afternoon – that is if you don’t mind being joined by too many humans who have the same idea. (Heavy sigh.) Be forewarned, this is one of San Diego’s most popular hikes so go early or be prepared for the crowds and a full parking lot.

If you want to add on another hike, the Cedar Creek Falls hike is in the vicinity too. Since I’ve done that one already, I decided to take the scenic drive out the other side on Descanso Road.

Descanso dirt road

The Scoop on 3 Sisters Waterfall Hike

Distance: 4 miles RT (out & back)

Elevation gain/loss :1000 ft (downhill on the way out, uphill on the way back)

Difficulty: Easy to moderate, depending on your fitness level. Trail run friendly on a non-crowded morning.

Getting there: From the town of Julian, turn left on Pine Hills Road, right on Eagle Creek, and left on Boulder Creek Road, which will become dirt road for the last 5 miles.

Note: Both Boulder Creek and Descanso are dirt roads with potholes, but no suv or 4-wheel drive needed. A regular passenger car with adequate ground clearance will do the trick as you have patience with potholes and bumps. However, it might not be prudent to attempt it without a SUV or 4-wheel drive after a heavy rain.

Fee: Display a National Forest Adventure Pass – $5 day pass [purchase info]  https://www.fs.fed.us/portaldata/r5/ap/r5-ap-vendors.php

On the way home, I added on short, vertical hike / scramble at Flinn Springs County Park on old highway 80 off highway 8. Post to come.