Elevation Gain: 650 ft (You’re starting at about 6,100 ft)
Difficulty: Easy to moderate, depending on your fitness level
I finally made it to the spectacular 200-foot, double-tiered Stewart Falls! What took me so long?
(The truth is, I’m guilty of prioritizing marvelous Mount Timpanogos via the Aspen Grove or Timpooneke routes when I’m up here and rarely have time to fit in this quickie.) This time, I fit in Lake Blanche in the morning and made this my afternoon destination. A bit of driving, but worth it.
This lovely, runnable, single-track trail through the forest is especially enchanting in the Fall, with the Aspens at the height of their color. You can’t beat the splendid reward of this shortie
Make a day of it; check out the beautiful grounds of the Sundance Resort, grab a bite, and browse the shops.
Turns out Stewart Falls is just as splendid in the summer. In fact, with the snow melt, it really rushes and mists, and you may get to see additional falls!
Getting there: The trail begins at the Aspen Grove Trailhead parking lot. The entrance fee is $10 or free with a National Park Pass. This lot fills early, and they do ticket cars along the street. Pay close attention to the “No Parking” signs; they’re easy to miss.
Elevation Gain: ~2,800 FT (Evenly distributed across the 3.5 miles.)
Difficulty: Moderate +/-, depending upon your fitness level
Known as one of the best hikes in the Twin Peaks Wilderness Area, Lovely Lake Blanche, with its dramatic granite spire backdrop (Sundial Peak), has an allure of its own. Hence, its well-documented, high-profile social media status and popularity.
Begin your hike along the rushing creek on your left and make your first right onto the Lake Blanche Trail. The climb is gradual and consistent, with colorful foliage (in the Fall) and peak-a-boo, foreshadowing views of Sundial Peak up ahead and down the canyon to the Great Salt Lake Valley to the West. I kept waiting for the climb to get steeper as I’d read reports that this hike was “challenging.” Perhaps I was just transfixed by the scenery, as you’ll see why.
Lake Blanche and its smaller sister lakes, Florence and Lillian, sit at 8,888 feet. The lakes were a bit low but still high on the beauty scale. While it’s a popular hike, there’s plenty of room to find your zen once you reach the lakes. Just keep strolling past Lake Blanche, where most people seem to congregate.
There’s an off-trail hike up Sundial Peak; I’ll have to try it next. Unfortunately, I didn’t have time this time.
I revisited in late July and just missed the wildflowers! Must go earlier next year. This time, I was running short on daylight, so off-trail exploration is still to come.
Directions: Take Big Cottonwood Canyon Road to the Mill B South Fork Trailhead. The parking lot fills FAST as in FULL at 7 AM on a Saturday.) Parking is allowed along the road, but that fills quickly, too!
Notes: Unfortunately, dogs and swimming aren’t allowed due to the area being a protected watershed.
Rats, all the scenery is too “grand” to fit in the featured photo. Please excuse the rough edit.
My route: Up the Big Pine Lakes North Fork Trail (Lakes 1-7 with the spur to Summit Lake), and down via the Black Lake Trail
Length: ~15.5 Miles
Elevation Gain: 3,986 ft
Difficulty: Depends on your fitness level and how far you go; while the elevation gain is gradual, it is significant, constant, and at altitude.
Trail Quality: Excellent, trail runnable! Well-marked and easy to follow!
This trail was a long unrequited love of mine. While I initially explored the area on two occasions decades ago, I never made it to all 1-7 numbered Lakes and Summit Lake and Black Lake until now. I fell in love all over again. It was even more stunning than I remembered.
Take 1
My first ill-fated overnight trip to the Big Pine North Fork Trail resulted in my hiking companion Chip getting altitude sickness and us having to make a hasty retreat. (Of course, we’d done everything you’re not supposed to do – we drove up from sea level to the trailhead at 7,660, charged up the trail 4 miles (gaining ~2k+elevation) to set up the tent near stunning Lake 2 before dark. With no time to eat dinner, we’d munched on fresh rosemary bread on the way up. Once we had the tent up, Chip became violently ill, vomiting multiple times. Meanwhile, his dog Chatz was becoming agitated- hair standing up, growling – this is bear country. I remember worrying about an apple I had in the tent; at the time, I didn’t realize that Chip was creating a bear smorgasbord outside. As Chip became sicker, it became obvious we had to abort our overnighter. It was dire enough that we thought about leaving the tent behind. There were no other hikers or campers around. I wondered how I would manage if I needed to carry Chip down. I worried that Chatz was going to have a run-in with a bear. Luckily, we all made it down the trail safely. As for Chip, predictably, he began to feel slowly but progressively better on the descent and was almost 100% within an hour of driving down from the trailhead. Since then, he has had an aversion to rosemary bread and higher altitudes. Despite being concerned about Chip’s well-being as marched down the trail with our headlamps, I recall being transfixed by the stark, ragged granite peaks glistening in the moonlight, the silence, and stillness. I vowed to return.
Take 2
When I returned a decade or so later, no idea what took me so long, I came with a mountain biking buddy who wanted to charge up the trail to the Palisade Glacier (the largest glacier in the Eastern Sierra). The trail spur to reach the glacier is about a 1/2 mile beyond Third Lake. Given that we prioritized the Palisade Glacier as our day hike destination (19 miles with 4,646 ft of elevation gain) and didn’t get an early start, we barely had time to nod to the 3 spectacular lakes we “ran” by on the way up and down. (If you know me, you know I’m more of an alpine lake person than a glacier person.) Once again, I vowed to return to immerse myself in those lakes’ beauty.
Take 3
Over a decade later (again, I have no idea what took me so long), I returned with my hiking buddy and expert back-country guide, Colin, the most earnest person I know about getting the most out of every hike. And this was no exception. We hit EVERY numbered alpine lake (1-7) plus Summit Lake and Black Lake, with ample time to bliss out at each.
How had I forgotten about the mesmerizing trailside rushing rapids and waterfalls of Big Pine Creek? I’m guessing there must not have been much snowmelt when I went previously.
I’m not going to number the lakes for you. You need to go discover them one by one for yourself. Here’s a sampling:
If you fish, you might get as lucky as the fellow who caught and released this big beauty.
On the Black Lake trail down, we were treated to patches of colorful wildflowers and breathtaking views of the lakes from above.
And there was also time for my yoga pose photobombing and blissful immersion! I vow to return before another decade passes!
And so the sun must set on even the most beloved adventure so another one can begin.
Happy Trails!
Tell me, what trails have you fallen in love with, and do you long to return to?
The Eastern Sierras Ruby Mountain range (often compared to the Alps) was named for the gems found there during the gold rush. The name is a misnomer, though, as the dark red gems discovered in these mountains were garnets, not rubies.
While no gold was ever found in the Ruby Mountains, treasures abound—two dozen dazzling alpine lakes and streams lively with Rainbow, Brook, and Lahontan Cutthroat Trout, meadows, and healthy forests. This rich wilderness area is home to one of the largest mule deer herds in Nevada and populations of mountain goats, bighorn sheep, and Himalayan Snowcock. (Oddly, I didn’t see any of them on my overnight backpack.)
The Ruby Mountains’ craggy, glacier-carved peaks rise nearly 5,000 feet above the valley below and are capped by Ruby Dome at 11,387 feet. The elevation on the trails ranges from 7,ooo ft to 11k. Trail length varies from a couple of miles to multi-day thru-hikes—choose your adventure. The main trails are well-marked and maintained, easy to follow, and easy on the feet. Explore for an afternoon or overnight backpack, as I did. If you’re like me, you’ll be dazzled by the glimmering alpine lakes and the sparkling night sky.
I went on an overnight backpacking trip here in September 2023. Yes, I’m way behind in my posts (understatement). I explored half a dozen lakes, including Liberty Lake, Lamoile Lake, Farvre Lake, and Castle Lake. I shall return and will provide more details then. Until then, click here for more info about the Rubies from “Travel Nevada.”
By now, you know that I have a thing for alpine lakes. While I could have lingered for days at any of the gems I visited, I did venture up above the treeline to take in the grand views as well. As you can see, it’s a completely ifferent vibe at a higher elevation – there are ten peaks over 10k feet here, and the highest is Ruby Dome at 11,387 feet
Night skies are wonderfulhere (Saw a rocket launch and a huge meteor!) And even on a weekend, solitude abounds!
Note of caution: Elko is 21 miles away from the Ruby’s; you’d think a place so close to this spectacular wilderness area would take pride in its gateway status. Sadly, Elko has one of the highest crime rates in America compared to communities of all sizes. (Elko’s population is only 20K!) The chance of becoming a victim of violent or property crime is 1 in 30. YIKES! Making it your adventure base camp, especially if you are a woman traveling solo, is ill-advised. Bring a hiking buddy and head for the mountains. (Common sense—don’t leave any valuables in the car.
Elko history: Elko was settled in 1869 with the development of the Transcontinental Railroad and became a base for gold and silver mining and livestock ranching. Unfortunately, it seems that it’s been downhill since then. There are 6 legal brothels in this small town of 20k, and the seedy element they attract is
Getting there:
From Elko, follow State Route 227 southeast toward the tiny town of Lamoille. Just before entering Lamoille town limits, turn right on the paved 12-mile Lamoille Canyon Scenic Byway and follow it to the parking area at its terminus.
Happy Trails!
(Here I am overloaded with my old heavyweight gear (3 lb surf backpack, 3.5 lb sleeping bag, 7.5 lb tent, 4 liters/8 lbs of water, etc., etc.). My last overnight backpack was years ago on Mt. Whitney. I guess my knees and back could still handle a heavy, poorly distributed load then. This time, the struggle was real. In the picture here, who knows if I’m grimacing or smiling in relief that most of the climbing was done. Since then I have opted for ultralight camping gear, which cuts my load by more than half. Stay tuned for an upcoming gear post.
Just when I thought the scenery along Mirror Lake Highway couldn’t get better, I saw the sign for Provo River Falls and turned off (<15 minutes east of Kamas). This enchanting roadside waterfall has three tiers (upper, mid, and lower), lovely terraces, and multiple cascades. It’s a must-stop if you’re driving Highway 150. There’s a short paved path alongside the 3 waterfalls. The water temperature ranges from 35 to 55 degrees so the mist from the waterfall is wonderfully refreshing, especially on a hot day.
On the Loose Live 