Havasupai Part 2: Revisiting Mooney Falls and Exploring Beaver Falls

Mooney Falls

~ 3 Miles from Supai Village

The descent to Mooney Falls requires ducking through a narrow, low sandstone tunnel carved into the cliffside, followed by cautious navigation down eroded and slippery sandstone “footholds” to the ladder far below.  While there are chains bolted into the rock for handholds in the most exposed sections, even with them, it feels a bit sketchy. The new wood ladder was slick with mud and mist, and its rungs were spaced wider than a comfortable leg stretch for me. With 6 years of rugged hiking, scrambling, and the occasional canyoneering adventure in Utah under my belt, you’d think I’d have less trepidation navigating this than I did in my younger years. But still, it gave me moments of pause. (On the way back up, I saw a toddler and a young boy scramble ahead of their parents up the cliffside. Yikes!)

The power of the waterfall and the amount of mist the rushing water created were tremendous! The sunlight through the mist caused a magical effect in my photo on the right.

Beaver Falls

~3 Miles from Mooney Falls

I’d never ventured beyond Mooney Falls before—there was never enough time. So I was especially grateful for the chance to explore further on this trip. The 3-mile hike from Mooney Falls to Beaver Falls is both enchanting and engaging, winding through a lush corridor of vines and trees along the turquoise creek. It feels like stepping into a jungle, with hidden oases revealing themselves around every bend.

After a few refreshing creek crossings, the trail leads you through a striking sandstone archway to a short make-shift mini-bridge water crossing, followed by a ladder cliff climb. Thankfully, the footing here was drier and more stable than the slippery ladder at Mooney Falls.

Beaver Falls was truly stunning—cascading tiers of turquoise water —but it was also crowded. I hardly took any photos. A brief moment of uninterrupted zen there below.

Thankfully, there were plenty of quieter “private” oases along the way, perfect for a peaceful dip or simply taking a moment to soak it all in. Beaver Falls is absolutely worth it, and the hike to it is fun—just be sure to get an early start if you’d like to experience it in solitude.

On the hike back, it was nearing critter hour. Much to my surprise, a bighorn sheep was just off the trail, seemingly scouting out a peaceful spot by the water to settle in for a nap. I had no idea that there were big horn down here!

Closer to the campgrounds, I spotted a blue heron, focused, mid-hunt—clearly having some luck with its evening catch. Pics are a bit blurry due to distance.

Leaving Eden

We started our return hike from the village just after dawn, hoping to beat the heat. Fortunately, most of the trail remained shaded until the final climb out of the canyon, which is fully exposed. Fortunately, there are a few rocky overhangs along the way—perfect spots to catch your breath and escape the unforgiving sun for a moment.

This adventure was nothing short of epic. I felt a pang of sadness as it came to an end, but also immense gratitude for the chance to return (thanks to my friend Bernie for securing the permits) and the opportunity to explore more than I ever had before. Among all my adventures near and far, the exquisite beauty and spiritual essence of Havasupai will forever hold a special place in my heart. I’ve never experienced anything quite like it. It remains one of my all-time favorites.

Happy Trails!

Leave No Trace!

Magnificent Mount Timpanogos in July Never Disappoints: Wildflowers, Waterfalls, Wildlife, and Wild Views-Oh My! (Via Timpooneke, Trail), UT

Distance: ~13 Miles RT

Elevation Gain: 4,856 ft

Difficulty: Moderate to hard, depending on your fitness level and acclimation to altitude

My second splendid summit of Mount Timpanogos (11,753 ft) was via the Timpooneke Trailhead. (And yep, I’m sticking with the same title. Mount Timpanogos simply has ALL the ingredients for a great hike. I’ve seen Mt. Timpanogos from both sides now (Aspen Grove Trailhead and Timpooneke), and both routes are gorgeous. Mount Timpanogos still ranks as the best US hike I’ve done.

Trail Notes: Keep your eyes open; at Mile 1, the trail takes a sharp right turn. (I kept going straight on what appeared to be a wide, well-traveled trail that stopped short across a stream. I ended up scaling a waterfall avalanche chute before it dawned on me that I was on another one of my “off trail explorations”—yep, I know, lol. I later learned I wasn’t the only one and suggested to the ranger that a sign might be advisable.)

At the 3-mile mark, a “snow bridge” had collapsed across the middle of a waterfall, requiring careful traversing of the slanted, slippery snow field. The picture below may not look too treacherous, but there is a waterfall crevasse directly under the snow. One slip could be a big, potentially final slip if you know what I mean.

Crampons would help, but given the onslaught of the heat wave we’ve been having, this section won’t be an obstacle for long. Other than that, the trail is well-marked until you reach the Emerald Lake juncture. The Summit Trail (054) is the unmarked (I’m not sure why) trail to the right.

Cons: This route seems busier/more crowded. (I was there on a weekend. I’m sure it’s better on a weekday.) You may want to challenge yourself with the extra 1k of elevation that the Aspen Grove route delivers.)

Pros: It’s easier—there is 1,000 feet less elevation gain, and a couple of miles shorter. Best of all, you completely bypass the tortuous snow and talus field that takes forever to painstakingly cross on the Aspen Grove route. (See picture below.) Footing is easy the entire way on the Timpooneke route perhaps that’s why it’s so popular with trail runners.

On the way up, you’ll go through what I’ll call “Moose Meadow,” where I saw the moose below with her calf.

You get a great “bowl” view of Timp’s peak above and surrounding peaks from the wildflower-filled meadow basin.

After which, the trail begins to climb in earnest to the Timp Saddle, where you’ll enjoy sweeping views of Utah Valley and the summit ahead. If you’re lucky, you may see grazing, napping, or salt-licking mountain goats along the way. Give the mountain goats space and respect. I(I have a great magnifier on my camera.) (While the goats look docile, they have been known to kill loose dogs that harass them (3 loose dogs were killed by goats last year) and gore people who get too close.)

I saw several off-leash dogs—doesn’t seem prudent! I’m guessing the moose wouldn’t take kindly to the loose dogs, either.

To reach the summit, mild scrambling is required. The section is short and nontechnical, but it is not for the faint of heart or those scared of heights. The panoramic views are tremendous, but it was a bit hazy when I summited—perhaps due to the wildfires in the surrounding areas.

Did I mention waterfalls? Lots!

Notes: On weekends, you need to reserve a parking spot: Timpooneke Parking Reservations

Caution: This hike involves significant elevation gain and hiking at elevation. Be aware of the signs of altitude sickness. It can sneak up on you even if you’ve never had it before. It happened to me recently on Wheeler Peak. On the way down Timpanogos, a teenage girl was in a fetal position by the trail, holding her head. Her family had called for rescue. Hopefully, she’s okay.

Happy and Safe Trails!

A Tale of 2 Lolos From Catalina Island

Meet Lolo and his falconer, Dave Long, the founder of the Catalina Falconry Experience.
I met Dave and Lolo, the Harris hawk, on the beach while enjoying happy hour at a local establishment. Dave was nice enough to come by and tell my friend and me what he and Lolo were up to. He said Lolo is a working bird. His job is to keep the seagulls from camping out around the beach, restaurants, and shops of Avalon. The restaurants on the shore draw both tourists and seagulls in large numbers. When left to their own devices, seagulls will camp out and wait for crumbs and handouts. An excessive amount of seagulls in the area means an excessive amount of seagull poop in the water, which leads to excessive bacteria counts and that stinks for all. I always wondered why the bacteria levels were so high in what looks like crystal clear turquoise waters of Catalina. Now I know.
Lolo the hawk was named after Lolo Saldana, the legendary local barber of Avalon. Lolo’s father came to Catalina in 1919, the same year that William Wrigley, Jr. purchased the island. Born and raised in Catalina, Lolo is 94 years old and still tending shop and cutting hair in his barber shop as he has for last half-century. Watch the documentary about Lolo the barber on YouTube.
If you’d like to see what it feels like to have this majestic Southwestern hawk or other raptors land on your hand and learn about them, check out the Catalina Falconry Experience next time you’re on the island. And if you need a haircut, stop into the barbershop and get your hair cut by a legend.
https://www.visitcatalinaisland.com/things-to-do/land-tours/falconry-experience/
https://www.facebook.com/catalinafalconryexperience/

(800) 626-1496

Summiting Magnificent Mount Timpanogos: Waterfalls, Wildflowers, Wildlife, & Wild Views—Oh my!

Elevation gain:5,384ft

Mileage: ~15 Miles RT

Summit: 11,752ft, the 2nd highest mountain in Utah

Difficulty: Hard, strenuous – due to altitude, elevation gain, and ~1.5 miles ea way of an unstable, tortuous, talus field

Happened to be in the area and made the spontaneous decision to hike Mount Timpanogos via the Aspen Grove Trailhead. So glad I did. By far, Mount Timp (as the locals call it) is my new, all-time favorite hike / peak. And I’ve done a ton of hiking across the country and around the world. I couldn’t stop smiling all the way to the 11,752-foot summit and back. Ok, maybe my smile was a bit of a grimace through the 1.5 miles back and forth across the treacherous talus strewn avalanche field.  Rest assured, the grimace quickly reverted to ear to ear, exuberant glee once I reached the summit and then again as I descended back down to the lake.

What’s make Mount Timpanogos so wonderful, you ask? Well, the title gave it way, but in case you missed it:

  • Abundant colorful, wildflowers of more varieties than I’ve ever seen
  • Dazzling waterfalls around nearly very switchback
  • Pristine alpine lake and snow field a couple miles from the summit
  • Muscular mountain goats guarding the upper slopes and frolicking by the lake
  • 5,384 ft elevation gain in altitude delivers a fitness challenge and solid workout
  • Sweeping views of Utah Valley from the saddle and spectacular panoramic views from the summit

This hike had it all—absolutely enchanting.

Started the trail in a steady rain, and walked up a verdant paved path for about a mile and a half or so before the pavement gave way to the elements.  Plentiful wildflowers and sparkling waterfalls distracted from the effort of the climb and the sun’s radiance soon highlighted all of the beauty, mist rising. The trail is easy to follow with plenty of switchbacks to help mitigate the elevation gain. It felt almost tropical at times.

The lovely Hidden Lake Basin and Emerald Lake are destinations for many, including the mountain goats.

Those who push on beyond the mile and ½ talus torture field and onward and upward still, are well rewarded at the summit.

Pay your respects to the kings of the mountain along the way. If you have good eyesight, you might spy the summit hut from thousands of feet below. It’s a bit daunting and exciting because it seems so far away, almost out of reach.

From the summit, you’ll take in dizzying 360 degree views of Utah Valley and Utah Lake to the west, Lone Peak and American Fork Twin Peaks to the north and expansive views everywhere in between.

Disclaimer: I experienced Mt. Timp in her July glory. I was told by locals that I wouldn’t recognize her in the Fall when the waterfalls are dry, the wildflowers have disappeared, and the green meadows have turned to yellow hay. Others report that Fall colors are nice here. Someday, perhaps I’ll be back to see for myself. In the meantime, if you’ve been in another season, let me know what it was like.

Notes: I’d say hiking shoes are a must to navigate the talus field. There were some hard core, ultra runners in trail runners. (I know – WOW!) Hiking poles are also a nice to have, given the elevation gain and loss. Layers are always smart at altitude. Be aware of weather changes and avalanche danger.

Getting there: I-15N to Pleasant Grove, exit 275. Follow N County Blvd and UT-92 E to the Aspen Grove Trailhead.

Stay tuned: I’ll be posting the videos soon!

Happy trails!