If you’re rolling into Capitol Reef at sunset or wrapping up a day of hiking but still have some energy left, the Chimney Rock Trail is a short, sweet hike that offers stunning panoramic sunset views. If you’re really short on time, you can take the official sunset “hike” in the park, Sunset Point Overlook—an easy half-mile trail that offers similar breathtaking vistas.
Chasing sunsets on the trails and yoga pose photobombing are two of my favorite things! What silly things do you do to express your exuberance in the wild?
Difficulty: Easy to moderate, depending upon your fitness level
This is definitely one of the more engaging official trails in Zion and now one of my favorites. From the trailhead, it begins as a tame, wide-open, flat route.
After a mile or so in, stop and look back for a glimpse into a dark canyon below.
As you continue along the trail, you’ll be treated to distant views of Zion, but don’t forget to watch your step as you descend the rocky trail into the lightly forested valley.
After reaching the other side of the valley, the climb will begin in earnest along the remnants of a concrete trail, zigzagging up to higher ground. It’s a friendly grade and easy terrain for fast hiking or trail running. It’s reminiscent of Walter’s Wiggles on Angel’s Landing, but the big difference is that you’ll likely have it and most of the hike from Stave Springs all to yourself!
This was my favorite part of the hike—a great workout with great scenery! (The picture above was taken on the return trip down.)
Once you reach the zenith, the views into Zion Valley are spellbinding, but you’ll want to keep your eye on your footing as you traverse along the slim cliff rim. (If you’re subject to vertigo and have a strong fear of heights, this might not be the hike for you.)
As you approach Observation Point, you can see Angel’s Landing below and across from you, a very cool perspective! This hike doesn’t have the rugged, chained, cliff-hanging social media over-posted appeal and crowds, and that’s exactly why it appeals to me.
Looks like angels are landing on Angel’s Landing. The picture above is taken from the trail along the rim. How dangerous is it? Might depend upon whom you’re with… In 1997, James Bottarin was accused of pushing his wife, Patricia Bottarini, off the cliff to her death here. Choose your hiking (and life partners) carefully!
Yes, Observation Point Views are grand, but in my opinion, they are no better than what you see en route, so you can always skip the last 1/2 mile or so if you want to skip the crowds.
There are two downsides: one is the long drive to reach the remote Stave Springs Trailhead, which is actually an upside, as it keeps the humans away. The second is the crowds you’ll encounter at Observation Point, who have taken the easier, shorter, less engaging route from East Mesa. It can be a shock to the system, especially after enjoying the splendid solitude of the Stave Springs route. Select the hike that suits you, but please note that both trailheads have limited parking, so arrive early to secure a spot.
If you’re lucky, you might encounter some of the locals.
Driving back through Zion and capturing golden light is always a delight.
Getting there: Use the Zion Ponderosa Ranch Resort address for your GPS: Twin Knolls Rd, Orderville, UT 84758. Once there, signs will direct you to the trailhead. It’s a gravel road with a couple of rough spots by the small parking area. High clearance recommended.
The Shadow to the Minaret (Agnew Meadows to Devil’s Postpile) route packs so much breathtaking beauty into a challenging 17-mile hike. Backpacking might be the best way to experience it, or you can choose a waterfall or any of the 7 amazing alpine lakes (Olaine, Shadow, Ediza, Iceberg, Cecile, Minaret, and Johnston) along the way as your destination for a shorter out-and-back hike. I wanted to see as much as I could in the limited time I had in the area, so I did it as a day hike.
Miles: 17, or create your own out-and-back adventure (~7 miles RT to enchanting Ediza Lake with only 400 feet elevation is an excellent option for a shorter day hike and is popular for good reason ).
Elevation gain: ~2.529
Difficulty: Hard/Challenging, especially for a day hike
From Agnew Meadows, you’ll encounter Olaine Lake first, then the gorgeous tiered Shadow Creek Falls, Shadow Lake, and dazzling Ediza Lake.
Enchanting Ediza Lake
Take the trail above Ediza Lake for a glimpse of dramatic Iceberg Lake.
From there, if you wish to venture beyond, you’ll have to climb/scramble the rugged loose scree and talus cliffs to reach Cecile Lake.
Note that I wouldn’t recommend attempting this if snow is present. There’s an argument if you’ve come this far to keep going. You’ll need to boulder hop for a half mile or so around Cecile to get to the slippery, rugged drop into Minaret Lake.
Scaling Iceberg’s cliffs, boulder hopping around Cecile, and “sliding down” the loose sandy “trail” into Minaret can be quite time-consuming despite these sections’ short distances. (Some AllTrails hikers reported it taking 2 hours for these miles 9 & 10 .) I made it up Iceberg in 20 minutes or so, but I am accustomed to scaling rugged, steep landscape. The boulder hopping around Cecile Lake was slow going for me, and the slide down into Minaret was even slower as my knees did not appreciate the vertical angle.
From Minaret to Devil’s Postpile, it’s all downhill with some rocky sections. Highlights include a wonderful, wide, terraced waterfall, and close to the end, a cool canyon area with a stream going through it, and finally, Johnston Lake.
Notes:
Get to the Agnew Meadows trailhead before 7am for self-drive and parking, or take the shuttle.
Equipment: Would poles have helped on the descent to Minaret? I’m not sure. Personally, I prefer to have my hands free. Prophylactically for me, knee braces would have been a good call, but not needed until the Minaret descent. If you’re going over 12 miles, I’d recommend hiking shoes. Much as I love hiking in light trail runners, my feet were beaten up/done at the end of this 17-mile day.
Was it worth it? ABSOLUTELY! I hope you can see why.
Rats, all the scenery is too “grand” to fit in the featured photo. Please excuse the rough edit.
My route: Up the Big Pine Lakes North Fork Trail (Lakes 1-7 with the spur to Summit Lake), and down via the Black Lake Trail
Length: ~15.5 Miles
Elevation Gain: 3,986 ft
Difficulty: Depends on your fitness level and how far you go; while the elevation gain is gradual, it is significant, constant, and at altitude.
Trail Quality: Excellent, trail runnable! Well-marked and easy to follow!
This trail was a long unrequited love of mine. While I initially explored the area on two occasions decades ago, I never made it to all 1-7 numbered Lakes and Summit Lake and Black Lake until now. I fell in love all over again. It was even more stunning than I remembered.
Take 1
My first ill-fated overnight trip to the Big Pine North Fork Trail resulted in my hiking companion Chip getting altitude sickness and us having to make a hasty retreat. (Of course, we’d done everything you’re not supposed to do – we drove up from sea level to the trailhead at 7,660, charged up the trail 4 miles (gaining ~2k+elevation) to set up the tent near stunning Lake 2 before dark. With no time to eat dinner, we’d munched on fresh rosemary bread on the way up. Once we had the tent up, Chip became violently ill, vomiting multiple times. Meanwhile, his dog Chatz was becoming agitated- hair standing up, growling – this is bear country. I remember worrying about an apple I had in the tent; at the time, I didn’t realize that Chip was creating a bear smorgasbord outside. As Chip became sicker, it became obvious we had to abort our overnighter. It was dire enough that we thought about leaving the tent behind. There were no other hikers or campers around. I wondered how I would manage if I needed to carry Chip down. I worried that Chatz was going to have a run-in with a bear. Luckily, we all made it down the trail safely. As for Chip, predictably, he began to feel slowly but progressively better on the descent and was almost 100% within an hour of driving down from the trailhead. Since then, he has had an aversion to rosemary bread and higher altitudes. Despite being concerned about Chip’s well-being as marched down the trail with our headlamps, I recall being transfixed by the stark, ragged granite peaks glistening in the moonlight, the silence, and stillness. I vowed to return.
Take 2
When I returned a decade or so later, no idea what took me so long, I came with a mountain biking buddy who wanted to charge up the trail to the Palisade Glacier (the largest glacier in the Eastern Sierra). The trail spur to reach the glacier is about a 1/2 mile beyond Third Lake. Given that we prioritized the Palisade Glacier as our day hike destination (19 miles with 4,646 ft of elevation gain) and didn’t get an early start, we barely had time to nod to the 3 spectacular lakes we “ran” by on the way up and down. (If you know me, you know I’m more of an alpine lake person than a glacier person.) Once again, I vowed to return to immerse myself in those lakes’ beauty.
Take 3
Over a decade later (again, I have no idea what took me so long), I returned with my hiking buddy and expert back-country guide, Colin, the most earnest person I know about getting the most out of every hike. And this was no exception. We hit EVERY numbered alpine lake (1-7) plus Summit Lake and Black Lake, with ample time to bliss out at each.
How had I forgotten about the mesmerizing trailside rushing rapids and waterfalls of Big Pine Creek? I’m guessing there must not have been much snowmelt when I went previously.
I’m not going to number the lakes for you. You need to go discover them one by one for yourself. Here’s a sampling:
If you fish, you might get as lucky as the fellow who caught and released this big beauty.
On the Black Lake trail down, we were treated to patches of colorful wildflowers and breathtaking views of the lakes from above.
And there was also time for my yoga pose photobombing and blissful immersion! I vow to return before another decade passes!
And so the sun must set on even the most beloved adventure so another one can begin.
Happy Trails!
Tell me, what trails have you fallen in love with, and do you long to return to?
If you like alpine lakes and friendly trails, you’ll have plenty to choose from, starting at the Crystal Lake Trail and hiking in virtually any direction. Forget peak bagging for the day and enjoy some lake hopping instead. This area wins my record for most lakes and ponds in the least mileage. The more miles you cover, the more lakes and ponds you’ll see in this dazzling area of the Western Unitas. I combined 2 loops going in opposite directions and visited a mind-blowing 32 lakes and ponds in 15 miles—yep, that’s a whopping 2 sparkling lakes per mile. (But whose counting? LOL, the Garmin, thank goodness, as I lost track!) Despite the parking lots being jam-packed, surprisingly enough, the trails weren’t overrun. (Island Lake had the most people—big family groups.) Overall, I saw more lakes and ponds than people—now that’s a perfect scenario.
Distance: Create your own lake-hopping adventure.
Difficulty: Easy to moderate+, depending on your fitness level and altitude acclimation
Altitude: All hikes in the 10k ft range
Getting there: Milepost 25.5 off of the Mirror Lake Highway. (This highway is closed from late October through Memorial Day.)
Notes: Parking and overflow lots fill fast in peak season, especially on the weekends. There are several campsites in the area, but most require reservations. Boondocking and backpacking are options.
On the Loose Live 