Stave Springs to Observation Point, Zion—Take the Hike Less-Traveled for an Engaging “Angel’s Landing-Like” Experience Without the Crowds

Distance: 9.3 miles

Elevation gain: 2k

Difficulty: Easy to moderate, depending upon your fitness level

This is definitely one of the more engaging official trails in Zion and now one of my favorites. From the trailhead, it begins as a tame, wide-open, flat route.

After a mile or so in, stop and look back for a glimpse into a dark canyon below.

As you continue along the trail, you’ll be treated to distant views of Zion, but don’t forget to watch your step as you descend the rocky trail into the lightly forested valley.

After reaching the other side of the valley, the climb will begin in earnest along the remnants of a concrete trail, zigzagging up to higher ground. It’s a friendly grade and easy terrain for fast hiking or trail running. It’s reminiscent of Walter’s Wiggles on Angel’s Landing, but the big difference is that you’ll likely have it and most of the hike from Stave Springs all to yourself!

This was my favorite part of the hike—a great workout with great scenery! (The picture above was taken on the return trip down.)

Once you reach the zenith, the views into Zion Valley are spellbinding, but you’ll want to keep your eye on your footing as you traverse along the slim cliff rim. (If you’re subject to vertigo and have a strong fear of heights, this might not be the hike for you.)

As you approach Observation Point, you can see Angel’s Landing below and across from you, a very cool perspective! This hike doesn’t have the rugged, chained, cliff-hanging social media over-posted appeal and crowds, and that’s exactly why it appeals to me.

Looks like angels are landing on Angel’s Landing. The picture above is taken from the trail along the rim. How dangerous is it? Might depend upon whom you’re with… In 1997, James Bottarin was accused of pushing his wife, Patricia Bottarini, off the cliff to her death here. Choose your hiking (and life partners) carefully!

Yes, Observation Point Views are grand, but in my opinion, they are no better than what you see en route, so you can always skip the last 1/2 mile or so if you want to skip the crowds.

There are two downsides: one is the long drive to reach the remote Stave Springs Trailhead, which is actually an upside, as it keeps the humans away. The second is the crowds you’ll encounter at Observation Point, who have taken the easier, shorter, less engaging route from East Mesa. It can be a shock to the system, especially after enjoying the splendid solitude of the Stave Springs route. Select the hike that suits you, but please note that both trailheads have limited parking, so arrive early to secure a spot.

If you’re lucky, you might encounter some of the locals.

Driving back through Zion and capturing golden light is always a delight.

Getting there: Use the Zion Ponderosa Ranch Resort address for your GPS: Twin Knolls Rd, Orderville, UT 84758. Once there, signs will direct you to the trailhead. It’s a gravel road with a couple of rough spots by the small parking area. High clearance recommended.

Happy Trails!

Devil’s Garden Loop, Arches National Park, UT

Distance: 8 miles via the “Primitive Trail”

Elevation Gain: 1,085 Ft

Difficulty: Easy to moderate, mild scrambling and slick rock traverses, requires some route finding, download a map

This hike will take you on a fun tour of 9 of the 2,000 arches in Arches National Park, including Landscape Arch, which is the longest arch in the world. So many arches so little time! The good news is in this park, no matter how short on time or energy you may be, there’s always an arch to see from the road or just a few steps away.

The first 2-miles of the Devil’s Garden Loop or so is on an easy wide gravel trail. (There are 3 arches in the first couple of miles, Tunnel Arch, Pine Tree Arch, and Landscape Arch. Beyond that the trail gets more interesting as it branches into a loop and takes you up a mild scramble to a slick rock traverse. While the trail is relatively well marked by cairns, there are a few tricky spots along the slick rock traverses. If you’re used to hiking across our rugged Utah topography, you won’t blink. If you take the loop counter clockwise, you’ll see all the arches at the beginning and middle of the hike. Word to the wise, we ran into a couple of people who were lost even though they were following their downloaded AllTrails map.

If you’re short on time or energy, the imposing Dark Angel rock formation can be seen and photographed best (IMO) from the distance from Double-O Arch area so you can skip the offshoot trail to it and shave about a mile off the hike’s total distance. (I took a picture up close that didn’t even make my final cut. )

On the other hand, if you have extra time and energy, you can drive down the road and add on a 3-mile loop hike to Sand Dune Arch, Broken Arch, and Tapestry Arch. (Sand Dune Arch is only a half mile total distance, add Broken Arch for 1.5 miles, and Tapestry Arch for ~3 miles.)

If you go, let me know which arches were your favorites!

Happy Trails!

Enthralling Elephant Arch, Washington, UT

Distance:~3.5 miles

Difficulty: Easy with the following disclaimer: ~ 2 miles of THICK sand walking

Part of the Red Cliffs Desert Reserve, this short hike delivers the reward of one of the coolest rock / arch formations that I’ve seen. (In my opinion, the Elephant rock in Valley of Fire doesn’t even compare.)  See it for yourself and let me know what you’ve seen that tops it.

Getting there: I-15N from St. George, Exit 10 to Washington. Left onto Green Springs Drive, immediate right onto Buena Vista Blvd. Follow. In about 1 mile, turn left onto the dirt road immediately after the fire station. Follow it for about 1.2 miles to the intersection of another dirt road and turn left onto this dirt road. In about a half mile you’ll see the parking area, gate and trailhead. (Directions are a bit tricky & terrain is variable–high clearance / 4-wheel drive vehicle helpful.) Took me 3x until I finally found it.

Trailhead GPS: 37.161671, -113.512897 Arch GPS: 37.177333, -113.494083

Notes: Full sun exposure, bring your water, hats, and sunscreen. (Spring, Fall & Winter are the best time of year for this one.) Leashed dogs allowed. Parking is free.

Happy trails!

Smith Mesa: UT Gravel Riding at Its Best

Length:~30 miles

Elevation gain: 3k

Difficulty: Hard, 1st 3 miles is ALL climbing (about 2k) of ~11% grades, after that-easy-to-moderate

Terrain: The first couple of miles of the climb are on pavement (you’ll be grateful for that, believe me), and then it’s graded, gravel fire road the rest of the way

I’m discovering that so many places in Utah call for that overused, four-letter word EPIC. Just as Inuits have 50 words for snow, I think Utahans need to have 50 words for epic. These pictures don’t begin to do it justice. This spectacularly scenic ride is a must-do if you are a gravel grinder who likes a hill challenge.

At the top of the hill, there’s a no trepassing sign. It’s an old US government facility with a long supersonic test track that was used to test jet fighter ejection seats. 

The scenic route loops around Smith Mesa, taking you through pastoral ranch land as it enchants you with views of Zion in the distance.

Depending on when the road was last graded, a couple miles of the descent can be bumpy (understatement) (not washboard, but cow hooved, which is worse) and you have to watch out for the occasional pothole and loose sand. Road conditions are always variable.

Smith Mesa meets Kolob Terrace Road and takes you back to Highway 9.

Getting there: Look for the Smith Mesa road sign off of Highway 9, north of Virgin, Utah, and west of Zion National Park.

Happy trails!

On Living YOUR Epic Life

I’m not one to throw the word epic around. (Disclaimer: I guess I’m guilty of overuse  when it comes to mountain bike ride descriptions: Tahoe’s Flume Trail  for 1.) In any case,  I don’t claim to be a “life coach”, but I know 1 thing —life is short and unpredictable.

My Dad had a debilitating stroke on the first night of the Hawaii vacation that my brother and I treated him too. He’d never really treated himself to anything in his entire life. And after the stroke and the paralysis he suffered, his ability to enjoy life or even take care of the most basic daily activities was severely diminished. If you’re waiting for something to happen until you do what you really want to do, let me suggest that you stop waiting and take the steps you need to take toward making it happen. Today.

Of course, I’ve procrastinated on following any number of my dreams too. But ever since Dad’s stroke and his subsequent death, my bike accidents, misc surgeries, etc. etc. (pile on effect), I’ve been determined to align my life and actions with my values. And that includes living somewhere where I’m closer to nature and able to live the outdoor, active lifestyle that I treasure. Sure, I’ve been fortunate to live a good part of my life in a place that many people consider dreamy – -Southern California. And I’d never taken its beauty and the many wonderful adventures I’ve had here for granted, but I’m ready for open horizons and roads—free from the excessive congestion that surrounds this place.

The  adventures I’ve had these past few years have have all been part of my quest to find my new home. I’ve road-tripped through Montana, Idaho, and Washington and found some delightful spots and top contenders, including Sandpoint ID, Port Angles WA, but none checked all my virtual boxes. Until St. George, UT. If you’ve been following my posts, it was a bit of a whirlwind romance. A year ago I visited, came back for seconds, and then I committed.

Yes, I’ve definitely had some second thoughts, self-doubt, and fleeting panic attacks, but I come back to that cliched  question – “If not now, when?” It’s a bizarre and unsettling time to be making a a major life transition, but I’m doing it. Last week, I moved about 60% of my stuff there and was fortunate to enjoy a couple mountain bike rides while I was there.

This 28 mile loop ride near Gunlock State Park was simply epic. See for yourself. It will likely be one of my top local rides.

I am happiest when I am immersed in nature’s beauty and being vigorously active. This is part of what living an epic life means to me. What does it mean to you and are you living it? If not, why not?