While it was bittersweet to leave lovely Vila Nova de Mil Fontes behind, we were all looking forward to what the new day with Top Bike Tours Portugal would bring.
Once again, we followed our trusty guide, Telmo, through a maze of paved and gravel roads.
One of our scenic stops was at the picturesque Zambujeira do Mar Cabo do Sardao Lighthouse, where the striated and serrated rocks in the sea meet the flowered-top cliff for postcard-like photo ops.
Gosh, I could spend days immersing myself in this splendid scenery, but we were off again to take in the beauty and charm of the tiny seaside village of Zambujeira (population 911). Zambujeria would later stand out as one of my many favorite hamlets. We enjoyed a refreshing lunch and gelato treat in a restaurant on the cliff overlooking the sea.
Top Bike Tours Portugaloutdid themselves with an amazing itinerary today, including a private tour and tasting experience at the splendid Vincentino winery (as nice or nicer than Napa and Sonoma wineries that I’ve been to and as delightfully palatable).
A sumptuous seaside dinner feast followed at a local, seaside, family-owned restaurant.
And if all that wasn’t enough, when we returned to the hotel, we were treated to a surprise, private, traditional Portuguese Fado concert—“Oh, my!”
Without question, this was one of my “top” days in Portugal, but then again, it seems so was every day that I spent with Top Bike Tours Portugal.
Distance: ~33 Miles Elevation Gain: 1,047 Ft Terrain: A mix of road & off-road
After a delicious buffet breakfast at the Octant Hotel, we saddled up, donned our new “Top Bike Tours Portugal” jerseys, and began our first day’s biking adventure.
We followed our wonderful guide, Pedro, [Top Bike Tours Portugal], into the lovely countryside via a maze of paved roads and gravel, dirt, and sandy paths. Encountering engaging vistas and a surprise around every corner.
At our morning rest stop, we were treated to our first glimpses of street art. The sea breeze foreshadowed that we would soon be at the captivating coast!
Soon we would be pedaling alongside the sea and taking scenic breaks to immerse ourselves in the rugged, ravishing natural beauty around each corner. Other than sharing it with a few hikers, we had much of the breathtaking scenery all to ourselves.
I kept thinking, “Wow, this must be the best part”, and it would just keep getting better and better. As would each moment, hour, and day of this epic bike adventure!
We enjoyed a leisurely lunch stop in the charming, fishing village of Porto Covo (population 1,400), where white-washed houses and restaurants with brilliant blue trim perch atop a hill overlooking the raging Atlantic Ocean and the rugged Alentejo western coast. I enjoyed the freshest tuna salad drizzled with the delicious local olive oil, and my friend had clams in garlic butter. (Fortunately, he was generous enough to share a couple of those sumptuous morsels.)
We would see many more hikers in the days that followed as our biking route encompassed segments of the Fisherman’s Trail, which is part of the Rota Vicentina, a network of hiking and biking routes throughout southwest Portugal, spanning the beautiful Alentejo and Algarve regions. The Fisherman’s Trail is a 78-mile-long coastal trail that’s described as one of the most stunning coastal trails in the world. (Indeed, I’m convinced!) Known for its spectacular seaside scenery, including dramatic cliffs, sandy beaches, and charming fishing villages, the route follows the wild Atlantic coastline from Porto Covo to Cabo de São Vicente.
After our tasty lunch, it was onward towards Vila Nova de Mil Fontes (population ~6k). However, first came a steep, rocky descent and a short dirt climb, which the e-bike group navigated with a little trepidation. Most had not ridden off-road before, and many were caught off guard by the “technical” challenges we encountered.
The view from our room at the Vila Nova de Mil Fontes Beach Hotel did not disappoint. The village was founded in 1486 by a royal charter granted by King João II and is located where the Mira River meets the sea.
After a refreshing post-ride libation (a Caipirinha for me), we took a relaxing stroll on the beach. (I developed my taste for this quenching cocktail on my cycling trip in Cuba and was delighted to find that they’re popular in Portugal too.)
Meet the friendly, well-fed feral felines of Vila Nova de Mil Fontes. (Say that 5 times – lol!)
Fun to share this awesome adventure with my yogi and hiking friend, Bradley! Here’s before and after cleaning up for dinner, and officially in full vacation mode! (Things came together as they often do for me, “Last minute Lydia”, about 2 weeks prior to “take-off”, and Bradley spontaneously jumped in to join in the fun. (Luckily, we were able to get in some saddle time prior as the rides were more challenging than advertised…Let’s just say that 16% grade hills were not an anomaly.)
That evening, we enjoyed our group dinner at a charming restaurant where we both “accidentally ordered” a fish casserole. Each individual serving was enough to feed a family!
On our after-dinner walkabout along the cobblestone streets of the old town village, we discovered the cliffside fortress/castle (built in 1599 by Filipe II of Portugal to fend off the constant pirate attacks on the village). We’d seen it earlier from the beach below, but it was so much more enchanting at night.
What an amazing day! I was so excited to see what tomorrow would bring.
Happy Active Adventures from Vila Nova de Mil Fontes!
If you missed my previous arrival day post and it’s not obvious at this point, yes, I wholeheartedly recommend Top Bike Tours Portugal. If you’re thinking about booking a tour with them, don’t hesitate! And please tell them I sent you. If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to message me.
Distance: Short: 1-5 miles; you can combine trails to make a longer loop
Sometimes, we take the people and things closest to us for granted. That’s the case for me and my local Anasazi (Ivins) and Tukupetsi trails (Santa Clara). These easily accessible, connecting trails are short (runnable and mountain bikeable), featuring the intriguing Land Hill petroglyph site, a fenced-in farmstead ruin once used to store food and herbs, and grand views in every direction.
I like these trails best when the Cottonwoods light up the rugged desert landscape with their vibrant flash of yellow, tracing the meandering (and meager) path of the Santa Clara River below. You can find me there, chasing leaves and golden light in my annual frenzy to catch it just right.
Take in the panoramic views of Red Mountain, Pine Valley Mountain, and, on a clear day, as far out to Zion from the ridge.
I will only post a couple of petroglyph pictures. I’d like you to be able to discover them for yourself.
Here are some highlights from the Tukupetsi side in Santa Clara from the vantage points of the upper and lower trails.
And more from Fall 2025.
Notes: Remember to leave no trace and respect all ancient petroglyphs and ruins. Please do not touch, step, sit on, or deface them. Oils in your hand can damage them, as can debris from your shoes. Perhaps think of them as outdoor museum art and appreciate their mystery.
These easy, short, fun hikes are offered by onthelooselive yoga and hike retreats and day adventures.
Day 2 was one of my favorite days on my Cuba cycling adventure: a tranquil coastal ride, a swim in turquoise waters, a tour of Matanzas art district and historical square, and a modern art luncheon experience, followed by beach time and a decadent lobster feast back in Varadero.
In the quiet of the morning, a white heron took flight as we rode by a lush green wetland area. The many shades of the shimmering turquoise sea were mesmerizing. Lucky me, I had the opportunity to immerse myself in the tropical sea at a secluded cove while we waited for the rest of the group to catch up.
Back on the bikes, we rode along the beautiful beach esplanade, discovering one magnificent sculpture after another. It was a perfect prelude into the art-filled, picturesque town of Matanzas (known as the Venice of Cuba or City of Bridges).
In Matanzas, we enjoyed a casual stroll along the canal way that was lined with more sculptures, tile art, frescoes, galleries, and restaurants.
Next, we explored the charming town square.
It was lunchtime next, and we dined in fine style—indulging in the local flavors and feasting our eyes on more colorful art and stained glass windows.
Upon return to Varadero, we enjoyed some beach time followed by another decadent lobster feast for me.
And so another amazing day with Cuban Adventures and my new friend, Vanessa, came to an end. Fortunately, the tour was just beginning! Stay tuned for the next postcard.
A few people have asked me what I’d recommend for a couples’ 2 to 3 night camping trip in Catalina. For nature lover’s with limited time, I suggest you skip touristy (though charming) Avalon and head straight for Catalina’s “Wildland” gems. Most Catalina aficionados concur that the 2 most beautiful spots on the island (not that you can really go wrong anywhere) are Little Harbor Campground and Parson’s Landing Campground. I’ll focus this post on them.
If you like this sort of thing, you’ll love those 2 spots.
Contemplating the climb ahead from Little Harbor Cove
Leaving Lovely Little Harbor
Heading down to picturesque Parson’s Landing
MAP
How you plan your getaway comes down to your preferred balance of activity to relaxation.
If you want to see both Little Harbor and Parson’s Landing, the easiest way to do it is to take the San Pedro ferry direct to Two Harbors. Once there, you are equidistant to Parson’s Landing and Little Harbor – this gives you the most flexibility and the most relaxation and recreation options. You can grab a bite and set out for either destination as a day hike / bike or an overnight at one or both of them. You can also catch a shuttle one or both ways.
When you visit Two Harbors, enjoy a meal at Doug’s Harbor Sands – the only restaurant / bar in town. I recommend the Mahe and a Buffalo Milk or two for dessert. Buffalo Milk is a delicious libation named after the island’s iconic buffalo (think alcoholic chocolate milkshake). I’d post a picture of one, but I drank them so fast I forgot to take one.
Otherwise, you could stay over in Little Harbor night 1 and then work your way West to Two Harbors and Parson’s Landing. On a quickie? Perhaps you take the Safari Bus back to Two Harbors or Avalon. (Arrange in advance.)
Staying Overnight in Two Harbors
Two Harbors Campground (42 tent sites & 3 Group sites) about a 1/4 from “town” on a bluff overlooking the Pacific. Outdoor cold water showers & portapotties.
In “town”, the Camping Cabins offer simple comforts on a budget ($50-70 a night) They are available November through March only.
Note: There are coin operated hot water showers in Two Harbors.
After roughing it for a day or two, I always like to throw in a little luxury. See why the rustic Banning House Lodge in Two Harbors is myTop Pick .
Two Harbors Things to Do: Diving, snorkeling, swimming, stand-up-paddling, kayaking, fishing, exploring and relaxing. So yes, you can have tons of fun just hanging in gorgeous Two Harbors. Did I mention the Buffalo Milk? (Yeah, I did.)
Head from Two Harbors to Parson’s Landing (via West End Road – easy fire road ~7 miles & or the Trans Catalina Trail – hard single track ~11 miles) and camp out there. Note there is no running water at this campsite. You can hike from here to Starlight Beach (the Western most point of the island), but be prepared for 20 miles round trip as Starlight Beach is day use only.
Avalon to Two Harbors ~23 miles (MTB route – ~3,284 elevation gain)
Little Harbor to Two Harbors ~7 miles by fire road or shorter by single track, expect a fair amount of climbing in either direction
Two Harbors to Parson’s Landing ~7 easy miles West End Road or ~11 via a challenging portion of the Trans Catalina Trail (hikers only) Note: Parson’s Landing Campgraound has no running water.
Two Harbors to Starlight Beach ~17 to ~21 miles depending on your route (see above)
Catch the Catalina Express from San Pedro to go direct to Two Harbors ~$75 ea round trip.
Or treat yourself to a Helicopter ride, starting at ~$135 one way depending upon your departure point. It’s a quick way to spend $135, but it is a dazzling ~15+ minutes. (One way is enough, unless you’re in a hurry and have $ to burn.)
If you have a boat, you’ve got it made to explore your way.
If you start in Avalon, you can take the island’s Safari Bus to Little Harbor, Two Harbors, or Parson’s Landing, but you are limited by their schedule. Mountain biking or hiking is possible too, but only if you’re up for ~23 somewhat tortuous miles (especially if you’re going to be carrying a pack) see my Catalina mtb. adventure post 1 & 3). There is a new Catalina Back Country Concierge that offers gear haul and other services, but they may not be open on weekdays in the off season – – at least they weren’t when we called them.
Another option is to stay in Little Harbor the first night and save the final 7 miles to Two Harbors for Day 2…
So many fantastic options, so little time. Be safe and have a blast!
I’ve been all over the island, the terrain can be challenging and most of it is completely exposed. (Carry plenty of water and sunscreen.) Keep ~150 yards from Buffalo. (They don’t like bikers.) Stay on designated trails and fire roads. Taking that short cut through brush may be tempting, but my brother will tell you, it’s not worth it. He got bitten by a rattlesnake there doing just that and had to be airlifted off the island. He’s fine now, but it was a bit sketchy during his two weeks in ICU…And no, I wasn’t on that trip.
Let me know if you have questions and do tell me what you did on your Catalina getaway!
On the Loose Live 