Tag: Featured

Hanging 10 at the Elusive Wave. Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness, AZ

Hanging 10 at the Elusive Wave. Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness, AZ

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After diligently trying for 3 years, my adventure partner Bernie finally lucked out and won the highly sought-after lottery for “The Wave” / Coyote Buttes North—one of the most striking geological wonders of the world. The trailhead is in Utah, but the Wave and the 3-mile hike to it are in Arizona.

The landscape was enchanting from start to finish. The colorful, striped, groovy rock formations that comprise this mesmerizing geological wonderland are part of the 112K acre Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness. 

The Wave was awe-inspiring, though the area was much smaller than I’d envisioned. My photos don’t do it justice, but there are plenty out there that do.

Unexpected highlights included some colorful formations along the way, an alcove, and a double arch beyond the Wave.

And we had the good fortune to run into some of the locals who get to call this area their home.

The maximum group size is 6, with a daily maximum of 64 people permitted. I’m for lotteries in these exquisite natural areas . It eliminates undesirable crowds, optimizes the visitor’s experience, and helps keep our natural wonders pristine. However, the lottery system for the Wave is complex and, as with most lotteries, not rigged in the player’s favor. One of our friends has been trying for 10 years! Some would argue that the system favors two tour companies that often swoop up the most permits and charge $200 per head to escort people to the main attraction and other points of interest when the group is game and time permits. Permit info.

One clear advantage of going with the guides is that they assume the risk of the notorious 9-mile drive to the Wirepass Trailhead on the rough and often unruly/treacherous House Rock Road. The perfect storm of ingredients, precipitation (rain or melting snow), thick sand, deep mud, and slick clay coagulates like quicksand to trap jeeps, trucks, and those silly enough to attempt the drive without a 4-wheel drive in their tracks. The tow cost alone likely would be several times the cost of a group tour. Our group evaluated the risks and the weather and took the tour with Dreamland Tours. Great operation, and I highly recommend our guide, Melanie Rader.

Naturally, despite doomsday predictions from the BLM and Visitor Center, the road was tame and easily passible with any 4-wheel drive on the day we went. Better safe than sorry as they say.

While we were disappointed that we couldn’t explore on our own, we appreciated the insights and highlights that Mel shared. We’re looking forward to exploring White Pocket next, along with the permitted Coyote Buttes South. A daily maximum of 20 people is permitted to visit Coyote Buttes South. Permit info.

Ok, so I didn’t exactly hang ten here, but our friend, Cris did.

The yoga pose photobomber strikes again and again! Perhaps my yogi balance poses or headstand count?

Happy Adventures!

Lower Calf Falls, Especially Lovely in the Fall! Grand Staircase Escalante, UT

Lower Calf Falls, Especially Lovely in the Fall! Grand Staircase Escalante, UT

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Lovely Lower Calf Falls, Grand Staircase Escalante, UT

Distance: 6 miles

Elevation: ~500 ft

Difficulty: Easy (with a fair amount of thick sand walking)

Highlights: 126-foot cascade into a shallow pool, giant petroglyphs in the distance

I was fortunate to return to Lower Calf Creek Falls in Autumn, and it was spectacular! Traces from the season’s first snow accented the gorgeous Fall colors and seeing the waterfall framed in golden leaves was glorious. So much beauty! And thankfully, with the cold, wet weather, there were only a handful of people on the trail. Can’t imagine a better way to experience this magical place!

As you can see, this amazing gem is definitely worth a visit. Lower Calf Falls cascades over a nearly vertical cliff face into a large pool that is enclosed on three sides by sheer Navajo sandstone walls. Pick up an interpretive pamphlet at the trailhead to learn about the flora along the trail and giant petroglyphs in the distance (too far in the distance to get a good pic).

Summer Slide Show

Without question, Grand Staircase Escalante is National Park caliber and deserves to be preserved and protected. Stay tuned for more posts on this area!

Notes: This is a very popular destination for obvious reasons. Go early / late to avoid the crowds. Off-season in stormy weather will deliver more solitude.

Get the scoop on Upper Calf Creek Falls.

Soapbox: If you bring pets, please pick up their poop! This trail (single track in many spots) and the falls’ area are small and quickly becoming overrun and overused. One fellow watched me watching him after his Labrador left a big poop pile on the trail. He took out a poop bag, and then when I turned away, he tucked the bag back in his pocket and left the steaming pile! ARRRGH! No respect for fellow hikers or nature. They should permit this hike, at least on weekends, and fine those who litter and leave their dog’s poop. Don’t get me started about the imbeciles who bag poop and then leave the full bag. I can’t get my head around people who go somewhere to enjoy nature’s beauty and then defile it.

Getting there: Highway 12 to the BLM-managed Calf Creek Recreation Area. The parking lot has limited parking. Go early, or you may have to park along the highway.

Happy Trails!

Smith Mesa: UT Gravel Riding at Its Best

Smith Mesa: UT Gravel Riding at Its Best

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Length:~30 miles

Elevation gain: 3k

Difficulty: Hard, 1st 3 miles is ALL climbing (about 2k) of ~11% grades, after that-easy-to-moderate

Terrain: The first couple of miles of the climb are on pavement (you’ll be grateful for that, believe me), and then it’s graded, gravel fire road the rest of the way

I’m discovering that so many places in Utah call for that overused, four-letter word EPIC. Just as Inuits have 50 words for snow, I think Utahans need to have 50 words for epic. These pictures don’t begin to do it justice. This spectacularly scenic ride is a must-do if you are a gravel grinder who likes a hill challenge.

At the top of the hill, there’s a no trepassing sign. It’s an old US government facility with a long supersonic test track that was used to test jet fighter ejection seats. 

The scenic route loops around Smith Mesa, taking you through pastoral ranch land as it enchants you with views of Zion in the distance.

Depending on when the road was last graded, a couple miles of the descent can be bumpy (understatement) (not washboard, but cow hooved, which is worse) and you have to watch out for the occasional pothole and loose sand. Road conditions are always variable.

Smith Mesa meets Kolob Terrace Road and takes you back to Highway 9.

Getting there: Look for the Smith Mesa road sign off of Highway 9, north of Virgin, Utah, and west of Zion National Park.

Happy trails!

Zion Narrows, Widely Populated, and Dare I Say, Overhyped

Zion Narrows, Widely Populated, and Dare I Say, Overhyped

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Distance: ~10 miles RT

Difficulty: First and last 1.7 miles is on flat pavement–easy. After that–hard, due to icy water immersion (from ankle deep to hip deep) and treacherous footing over slippery rocks. Water is so murky that you must use your hiking stick / poles every step of the way.

Fortunately, my friend and I were of the first few to step our feet into the icy waters of the Narrows that morning so we were able to soak in its beauty in solitude. Unfortunately, on the way back, the multitudes had arrived—unruly mobs descending on a magnificent citadel destroying all vestiges of a nature’s magnificence.

The waterfall in the feature picture above is the official turning around point for the Narrows. If you wish to add on a nice side trip on the way there, on the way back, or as an alternative, check out Orderville Canyon. It’s the right fork at about the 2.5 mile mark. It’s much greener, and in my opinion, prettier than the Narrows itself. Unfortunately, my bettery dies so I wasn’t able to take any pictures there. Guess, I’ll have to return. Orderville Canyon is also a bit less traveled, which in my book, is always a win

Yes, the Narrows is cool, but in my opinion, over-hyped. I’m so fortunate to be discovering so many equally or more beautiful, less-populated spots all over Utah. Zion National Park’s inability and/ or unwillingness to minimize crowds is discouraging and certainly offputting.

There is a 17-mile top-down challenging route that requires canyoneering and some swimming, likely it rules out the masses, but there’s no avoiding them for your final 5 miles when you’re most likely to be a bit hangry anyway… I’ll let you know if and when

Soapbox: In my opinion, ZNP needs to permit this hike ASAP to preserve the area from the irreversible impact of the HORDS of HUMANS and enhance visitor experience. They do it for the Subway and it works well. Never felt overwhelmed there, but the Narrows felt like being in a city subway. Perhaps they should flip the names.

Notes: Water temperature ranges from 40 to 60 degrees. In the fall, winter and spring, dry gear is recommended. (My first time was inMarch and I froze. Came back in July and was fine in shorts.) Rent info: https://www.zionguru.com/narrows-rental-equipment  Hiking sticks/poles are a necessity. Go early to avoid the crowds as much as possible.

Zion’s Sublime Subway: Bottom Up—Is Tops!

Zion’s Sublime Subway: Bottom Up—Is Tops!

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Distance: ~9 mile round-trip (out and back)

Elevation: ~1900ft

Difficulty: Moderate, depending upon your fitness level. (Zion National Park’s rating is strenuous.) Steep and exposed initial descent and return ascent, otherwise fairly mellow trail with lots of stream crossings / stream walking, some rock-hopping, and minor scrambles over boulders. (Good idea to have some longer hikes with some elevation challenge under your belt before attempting.) Since footing can be precarious at times, especially at the Subway itself, but also along the way, expect the hike to take longer than mileage would indicate. Also, you’ll want to take the time to savor the beauty that surrounds you.  Average hike times range from 5 to 9 hours.

Definitely one of my favorite Utah hikes so far—epic scenery, waterfalls, the magnificent, iconic beauty of the Subway, and a solid workout.

More than 1 of us accidently took the wrong “trail” down.  Not sure how that happened – maybe it was too early in the morning, and too much excitement. If it looks and feels like you’re navigating down a precipitous, vertical avalanche area —retrace your steps back to the trail and continue on. While the descent and ascent are steep, they are on a definite trail.

The hike description noted a strenuous and steep descent / ascent so we didn’t think we’d gone astray until we found the real trail (pic on right) on the way back.

Apparently, there are some dinosaur tracks just off the “trail” somewhere – their whereabouts remain a mystery to me. I’ll let you know if I find them on my next trip.

Keep your eyes out for snakes, toads, and trout.

And yes, there’s also a top-down route to the Subway that requires canyoneering, rappelling, and swimming. It may be in my future—will report back, if and when.

Heads-up:

  • Walking stick with a solid rubber end and grippy shoes highly recommended. (You’ll be traversing many slippery rock sections through the stream and at the subway itself. Be cautious – safe is better than sorry. Many helicopter rescues occur here. Don’t be one of them.)
  • Be aware of flash flood danger and heat exhaustion exposure. Get the weather report and double-check with rangers. I went in April and it was 90 degrees by midday—some fellow had heat stroke on the trail. (Bring plenty of water, a hat, and sunscreen.)
  • This is a day use only area and permits are required. An advance lottery system applies from April to October and calendar reservation applies from November through March. There is also a last-minute drawing and you can always check for cancelations day of—unlikely, but we met a couple who nailed both a same day cancellation opening for the hike and a campsite so you never know. (Permits are $15 for 2, $20 for up to 7, and $25 for up to 12 people.) Lottery, reservation, and permit details here.

Good luck – it’s soooooooo worth it!

Getting there: Left Fork Trailhead on Kolob Terrace Road

Happy Trails!