A Royal Treat: The Ben Lemond Track & Queenstown, South Island, NZ

Ben Lemond Track—Choose your adventure

Tiki Trail/ Base of Gondola Start to Summit Distance rt from Tiki Trail: ~9.7 miles Elevation Gain: ~4,786Top of Skyline Gondola Head Start to Summit Distance rt: ~7.1 miles Elevation Gain: ~3,310 ft

Difficulty: Moderate/difficult, depending on your fitness level. (AllTrails rates it as strenuous/advanced/highly challenging.)

Of my two weeks of adventures in New Zealand, this was one of my favorite days—and easily one of my favorite days anywhere. Simply EPIC from start to finish.

After hiking the Marian Lake Track and Key Summit the day before, I spent the night in a small, somewhat dilapidated motel in the scenic, lakeside village of Manapouri. While the accommodation left much to be desired, falling asleep and waking up to the spectacular view below more than made up for it—a fortuitous start to a day that would prove exceptional both on and off the trail.

Queenstown, the South Island’s Adventure Mecca

Here, every step you take leads to breathtaking scenery and an exhilarating experience. Set against the dramatic backdrop of the jagged peaks of The Remarkables mountain range with the shimmering waters of Lake Wakatipu (NZ’s longest lake – 50 miles long) reflecting the surrounding beauty, Queenstown is arguably one of the most stunning destinations in New Zealand and a gateway to some of the country’s most memorable outdoor experiences—including the spectacular Ben Lomond Track.

Whether you’re hiking alpine ridges, carving down mountain bike trails, riding gondolas, the luge, the Vortex Slide, or the Zipline, or mixing it up, your outdoor bliss awaits in Queenstown. The town itself doesn’t disappoint either—vibrant streets lined with galleries, restaurants, shops, and gorgeous boutique hotels like the one I stayed at, The Central Hotel, where the perks included a complimentary bottle of local wine, snacks, and continental breakfast.

While Kiwis, (as New Zealanders call themselves), may dismiss Queenstown as overly touristy, its popularity is clearly well-earned. (Also, in my opinion, the “touristy” vibe in NZ feels far more subtle than the US, and generally, crowds are smaller. than what you encounter stateside.)

A Queenstown Must Do: The Breathtaking & Ravishingly Beautiful Ben Lemond Track

There are two ways to access the Ben Lomond Track: hike up the Tiki Trail from the base of the Skyline Gondola, or give yourself a head start by riding the gondola to the top.

Obviously, starting from the Tiki Trail adds both distance and elevation to your adventure—about 2.6 miles round trip and 1,476 feet of additional climbing. Naturally, I took the Tiki Trail. Was it worth it? Yes, and no.

On the plus side, it added to the workout challenge, which I rarely resist. From a scenery perspective, it didn’t add much, as much of the trail winds through the forest, with the best views near the top.

If you have the time and enjoy earning every foot of elevation, the Tiki Trail is worthwhile. But if the Ben Lomond hike itself feels like enough of a challenge—or you’re simply short on time—take the Skyline Gondola.

The Ben Lemond Track is well-marked, easy to follow, and easy on the feet, until the last rocky mile or so to the summit. Great for trail running. The mountain bike trails are separate (45 mountain biking trails and 10 e-bike trails), so no close encounters with bikes (thankfully), but it’s fun to watch them flying down the ridgelines from a distance. As you climb the ridgeline, the incline is consistent, but mostly gentle/moderate until that last mile. Your reward is expansive views of the dazzling Lake Wakatipu (NZ’s longest lake – 50 miles long) and Queenstown far below, and a stunning panoramic view of it all at the top. While the summit is only 5,735 feet in elevation, it is considered alpine as it’s above treeline, completely exposed, and subject to severe, volatile weather. (Be prepared and check the weather forecast in advance.) I’ve discovered that many alpine hikes in New Zealand offer plenty of elevation gain without the altitude factor—same magnificent alpine hiking and scenic rewards, but far less arduous than hikes at higher elevations. Super fun and doable for hiking, trail running, and biking, but not helpful if you need altitude training or will be competing at altitude.

While not an official “Great Walk” of NZ, the Ben Lemond Track is a GREAT hike—in my opinion, it’s a “must do” if you’re in Queenstown.

So many adventures, so little time! Definitely something for everyone here! Whatever Queenstown adventures you choose, be sure to work up a good appetite, and then treat yourself to the lavish all-you-can-eat feast (lunch or dinner) at the Stratosfare Restaurant. Enjoy the incredible views, live music, and decadent delights.

Pro Tip: Reservations are required at the Stratosfare Restaurant, but it’s 100% worth checking in to see if they have last-minute availability. You just may get lucky like I did!

Skyline Gondola Views

Happiness is a challenging hike followed by an indulgent feast, a sunset gondola ride, and a cozy bed with a welcoming bottle of local wine and snacks—all with spectacular views! This was truly an epic day for me in NZ and in my life!

Happy Trails! Stay tuned for more NZ adventures.

Top Picks:  Escalante Outfitters—Best Pizza Ever and More!

After a day of adventuring in the Escalante area (and there’s plenty of adventures to be had in the area – Lower Calf Creek Falls, Zebra Canyon, etc.), I always stop at Escalante Outfitters Café for a bite. And I always get the pizza. I’m not a big pizza person, but Escalante Outfitters converted me with their homemade pizza pie. I’m one of those who usually leaves my pizza crusts on the plate. Not here, their pizza is good to the very last bite.

Of course, there’s more than pizza to choose from on the menu (salads, sandwiches, and desserts). Maybe I’ll eventually try something else, but for now – I’m going steady with their pizza.

If you forgot to pack anything for your adventure, their store has hiking and camping gear, hats, sunglasses, sunscreen, etc. There’s also a nice selection of souvenirs and gift items to browse while you waiting for your meal.  

In addition to the Café and store, they have cabins to rent and offer fly fishing tours.

When in Escalante, they’re your “go-to” for all of this, plus local tips on the area.

Also, I want to give them an extra shout out for their friendly service and for mailing my forgotten credit card back to me.

Cheers to Happy Trails and Tummies!

Exploring the St. George Area on 2 Wheels

For those of you who might be wondering, here’s a sample of what biking (road biking and mountain biking) looks like around St. George, Utah. As you can see, the views for much of this 60-mile ride were splendid, quintessential Utah—Virgin River, canyons, red rock, and snow-capped mountains. Road quality varied. (Utah drivers were not quite as courteous as I’d hoped. Lots of trucks sped by us without moving to the left or braking.)

Scenic views road biking Utah
Roadside Red Rock off the 7
Virgin River
Virgin River Views From River Rock Roasting Company
virgin river views la verkin
Virgin River Views From River Rock Roasting Company
L rocky roasters
River Rock Roasting Company: Definitely the Best Coffee / Gastropub and Views Around!

Quail Lake 3Quail lake 2

L Quail Lake

Not bad, eh?

Toquerville /La Verkin Road Bike Loop ~60 Miles, ~2500 feet  of climbing

A friend of mine, now a St. George local, guided us on this 60-mile road bike sampler with ~2500 feet of climbing on surrounding highways and byways. We took the lovely, low traffic 7 to Sand Hollow Road (rough surface) by Sand Hollow Reservoir (Half-Ironman site) across to State Street / 9. (The 9 is a main thoroughfare with heavy, fast traffic -not so nice. Maybe save this one for Sunday mornings when most of the locals are at church.)

At the halfway point, we enjoyed some refreshments and superb views at the super scenic, ever popular River Rock Roasting, which is perched on a cliff overlooking Virgin River in La Verkin. If you’re in the area, River Rock Roasting is a must stop and is definitely my top pick for coffee, food, brews and views. It’s slammed on Sundays (apparently everyone who is not in church goes here) so pick a weekday if possible.

Our route back on State Street/9 was topped off with a stop at dazzling Quail Creek State Park and Reservoir. And yes, you can swim in it. No, I didn’t this time, but will next! It’s 120 feet deep in places and stocked with rainbow trout, bullhead catfish, crappie, largemouth bass. There’s boating, kayaking, SUPs, hiking, biking and camping here.

The Veyo Loop is another amazingly scenic route through the Gunlock and Snow Canyon area—one of the top ten routes in Utah -minimal traffic and maximum views!

Desert Canyons Mountain Bike Trails: Pushing Tin and Secret Sauce ~8 miles

Our mountain bike sampler was limited as it had recently rained, but we’ve heard there’s tons of epic trails around here. The driest trail option was the newly developed Desert Canyons Trail System. We cruised around two of the trails, Pushing Tin and Secret Sauce, both pleasant easy to moderate with views from the top of the mesa out to the horizon. Unfortunately, these views are slated to be filled in by a Master Community in the near future. (The developer’s concession / gift was this mountain bike trail system.) We were lucky to have it to ourselves with no building encroachment yet.

MTB yellow wildflowers
Wildflowers and Mesa Top Views
desert canyon mtb cutout
Metal Art
Kara MTB jump
Kara Highlighting Crazy Technical Opportunities
L MTB desert canyon
Open Views for Now…

Directions: From St. George, take the I-15 S to Desert Canyon s exit and take a left under the overpass

We were told that there’s plenty of great mountain biking in and near St. George, but it wasn’t in the cards for this trip. We did make it to Moab for an epic mountain bike ride – stay tuned for that post.

As far as these 2 rides go, I’ll give them 2 thumbs up.

 

My PNW Explorations: Looking promising, Port Angeles!

 

Driving over the crest of a hill, I caught my first glimpse of downtown Port Angeles, the shimmering water and port in the distance. My first impressions? Wow! Clean, wide roads, nice sidewalks, historic buildings, art installations everywhere you look and great views. From what I’d heard from the Port Townsend and Sequim “ambassadors”, I expected to see a smaller version of skid row—homeless people and druggies panhandling on every corner, litter in the streets and on the sidewalks, dilapidated buildings and overt grime, crime and grit. Not so—quite the opposite. In many ways, Port Angeles has more character, art and scenic appeal than either Port Townsend or Sequim. And my taste tests attest to the fact that Port A has much better restaurants too.

 

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Over the course of my PNW adventure, I spent a total of 3 nights in Port Angeles and thoroughly explored the town and its neighborhoods. Yes, eventually, I saw some homeless people. I have no doubt there are “issues”, but every community has issues and more and more have issues of this type. (For the record, Sequim is not immune – recall the panhandler at the Village Marketplace. No doubt they would say he was just on his way to Port Angeles.)

My first stop, and an easy one as its right on the main drag as you come into town, was Sound Bikes & Kayaks, 120 E. Front Street. My last chance for mountain bike rentals before I headed up the coast. I was so relieved when I opened the door and saw plenty of quality mountain bikes to rent. (And they even have an in-store rock climbing wall there too.) The friendly team at Sound Bikes & kayaks gave me the local scoop on the top mountain bike rides and hikes in the area. I shared my encounters with the Port Angeles and Sequim gloom and doomers and they just shrugged their shoulders. (Tourist dollars are hard to come by, especially in the off-season, perhaps that was what it was all about.)

Lodging was easy to find, I just walked across the street and rented a room in the historic Downtown Hotel. Now it was time to grab a bite with a view at Downriggers at the Landing and plan my active adventures.

Its close proximity to Lake Crescent and Hurricane Ridge / Olympic National Park and its gateway position to adventures farther afield made Port Angeles a great basecamp for my PNW explorations coming and going.  Here’s my sampler for ya:

Port Angeles Lodging

Downtown Hotel – great rates, views and old-school charm

Built in 1916 and renovated in 2003 after a fire, the Downtown Hotel has lots of character. This place made me nostalgic for the old hotel from my childhood. (My family was in the hotel and restaurant business in New Hampshire.) The Downtown Hotel is historic, quaint and clean—and full of old-school charm. You can choose from kitchenette suites, apartment suites, private baths or “European style with a shared hallway bathroom. I picked a suite with a view of the harbor. The bed was a bit small for a queen and the wifi was a bit spotty in the room so I had to take my work conference call in the lobby. Other than that, I loved it. The reading material in the lobby was great. They subscribe to the New Yorker, one of my favorite magazines – another feather to put in the artsy / cultural hat of Port Angeles. It’s a cool, centrally located spot within the heart of Port Angeles. I would stay here again and consider it for a long-term stay. The general manager, Tim, is a bit of a vintage bike nut. If you are too, you might ask him to show you his extensive collection. Notes: no pets allowed and no wheelchair access. The entrance staircase leads from street level to the lobby and rooms are on the second and third floors.

The Red Lion Hotel  221 N. Lincoln St.

red lion hotel
The waterfront Red Lion with its Olympic Mountain backdrop

Treat yourself to a great night’s sleep and a spectacular sunrise with a water view room. Extremely comfy bed with a room large enough for a happy dance. (I think it was an ADA room, not sure if they are all like that or If I just got lucky.)

Super 8 by Wyndham, 2104 E 1st St

Clean, comfy, convenient and budget friendly. This place has been renovated recently and is downright decent. Wifi and free breakfast are included. Be sure to pay your respects to the resident feline, Douglas. Drop into the locals’ bar, Joshua’s Restaurant and Lounge, next door for a quick bite or nightcap if you’re so inclined. This is where I got the insider tip from locals Kristin and Chef Matt Colony to visit them at First Street Haven for breakfast (see review below).

The Landing & Downriggers

The Landing mall and the restaurant Downriggers is right on the coast of the Strait of Juan de Fuca.  It features spectacular water, city and Olympic Mountain views and and is home to galleries, restaurants, offices, a co-working space, a rowing club and more.  I ate a salmon salad at Downriggers my first night. Perhaps not as good as the view, but  as good or better than Sirens in Port Townsend. Not that it’s a contest or anything, but if you read my previous post, you’ll understand why I’m making all the comparisons.

 

Great Restaurants

Next Door Gastropub—Not to be missed!

The line out the door is a good indication that this is the “go to” spot in Port Angeles for great grub. In general, I avoid meat. Once I caught sight of the burgers here, I caved. Delicious! For those with stronger willpower than mine, there are delectable vegetarian options as well. Whether you’re a carnivore, herbivore, or omnivore, you can’t go wrong here. The outdoor seating is limited, but always my happy preference so I’m glad they have some.

 

First Street Haven, Heaven for foodies 107 E 1st St

Had some drinks and great conversation with the chef and a waitress from First Street Haven at Joshua’s Restaurant and Lounge the night before. The chef was from Oceanside, CA – small world. (My home base is next door to Oside, Carlsbad.) They said their establishment had the best breakfast in town. After sampling it, I’m inclined to believe them. Crazy delish cinnamon rolls, banging eggs Benedict, and so on…We even scored some local mushrooms. (No, not that kind, come on now!) Excellent cuisine (Chef Matt Colony) and service (Kristin).  They are at the top of my list for a return trip.

Coffee

BADA NW is gooda 118 W 1st St, Port Angeles, WA 98362

This is one of the coolest coffee shops with a great PNW vibe. It’s up there with Woody’s in Hakone, Japan for great atmosphere and quality coffee. They serve food and beer and wine too. (As did Woody’s, coincidentally.) Bold, Ambitious, Dedicated and Authentic (BADA) is gooda.

 

So Port Angeles, you won me over, 3 days – not only did you not disappoint, you exceeded all expectations. All the locals here I talked to were super friendly and helpful.

Stay tuned for my active adventures in the epic PNW, including Hurricane Ridge, and points beyond.

Prescott Round-Up: 3 days of fun and adventure

I spent 3 incredibly fun days exploring the Prescott area and covered a fair amount of ground on foot and on bike sampling the local trails.

Downtown, historic Prescott, Arizona is charming, clean, friendly and fun. Lots of historic buildings, galleries, shops, restaurants, hotels and old-time saloons. I’m sure glad my road trip took me here. I had a blast exploring the area—hiking and mountain biking in the nearby Prescott National Forest by day and kicking up my heels on the saloon dance floors by night. As a solo woman traveler, I felt completely safe my entire trip. Nightlife – yes! Live music – yes! Dancing – yes!

Downtown Prescott
Whiskey Row at Dawn

WHAT I DID

Hiking:

Granite Basin

Spruce Mountain

Constellation Trails

Mountain Biking:

Prescott Valley to Prescott via the Iron King & Peavine Trails

Goldwater Lake

Roadtrip to Jerome

WHERE I ATE

Restaurants: 

The Barley Hound Gastropub

Farm Provisions

WHERE I STAYED

Good night’s sleep on the “cheap” – basic, clean, quiet accommodations

Got into town late the first night and just needed a clean, quiet, safe place to stay. Here at the Rodeway Inn, I found friendly staff, a clean room, and comfy bed. Just basic was just right for that night for me. I left before the complimentary continental breakfast, but nice that they offer it.

Prescott Resort and Conference Center

Not quite on the same scale as a California “resort’, but nice enough. It certainly has stunning sunrise and sunset views across Prescott and a wonderful patio where you can enjoy them with a cocktail if you’re so inclined. The rooms were cozy, comfortable and clean and I’m guessing that most have great views too. I ate a decent, inexpensive meal in the casino and was pleasantly surprised by the quality. (The casino restaurant has daily specials so it’s worth checking out the restaurant there compared to the “resort restaurant” if you don’t care about ambiance.) I was traveling solo and had been hiking all day so it was just fine with me.

Sunset from the Prescott Resort and Conference Center Patio with Thumb Butte in the Distance

Hotel Saint Michael, Downtown/ Whiskey Row, Prescott, AZ

Location, location, location. On my final night in Prescott, I kicked up my heels and checked out the live music and saloon scene on Whiskey Row. If it’s a busy weekend you might need to pick your poison – some interior rooms with a super noisy generator or exterior room with rowdy crowds. Yes, the rooms and bathrooms are super dated – this is a historic (and word has it, haunted hotel – I expected that much. I didn’t expect the roar of the generator. Disclaimer, I’m a “sensitive sleeper”. But the noise was so LOUD, putting pillow over my head didn’t help. They should probably hand out earplugs here. Maybe they’re hoping you’ll come back from Whiskey Row so sloshed that you won’t hear a thing.

l in lobby saint michael hotel
The Lobby of the Hotel Saint Michael

Much left to explore. I’ll be back!