Difficulty: Easy, depending on your fitness level and sensitivity to altitude (as the trailhead is at 6,700 ft and the falls are at ~7,315 ft)
If you know me by now, you know I like a big hike and chasing waterfalls. Topokah Falls, in this case, offered neither, but in my opinion, it was still 100% worth it. Perhaps the pictures below will convince you why.
Even when the 1,200-foot falls were but a trickle, as is often the case in late summer, this is still a delightful little hike on a well-groomed, easy trail alongside a stream, glades of wildflowers, and gradually up to some impressive granite slopes. As you near the falls, you’ll encounter short sections of rocky footing.
This area has a wonderful “back-country” Eastern Sierra vibe; it reminded me a bit of Yosemite.
(Given its easy accessibility, you may be sharing it with a Boy Scout troop or other large groups.) Go early and have it all to yourself.
From the Lodgepole Campground, there are other trails to add on if you have the time and inclination, including Cahoon Meadow (2.6 miles) and Twin Lakes (6.5 miles). If there’s a next time for me, I’d probably take the Twin Lakes Trail. If you’ve done these hikes, let me know how they were.
Happy Trails! Leave No Trace!Tread Lightly! (Note, I’m not tromping on the wildflowers; there’s a path going through them that’s obscured in this photo, but perhaps it’s a good time for a PSA: As pretty as wildflowers are, please don’t pick them. They are essential for the ecosystem, including the pollinators, birds, and wildlife. Also, it’s illegal in most areas, including National Parks, though you’ll often see people doing it.)
Visiting the Forest of the Giants is an awe-inspiring experience. It has to be the ultimate forest bathing destination on the planet. The ancient, colossal, towering Sequoias will fill you with a sense of wonder and quiet reverence. Since it’s a National Park, you can expect to share the experience with many others. But don’t let that deter you—a network of enchanting, less-traveled trails extends beyond the main viewing areas. Once you wander past the beaten (paved) path, you’ll leave the crowds behind and discover soft, winding trails that weave through fern-laced glades and alongside serene meadows, with each step taking you deeper into the heart of this magnificent forest.
If I ever return, I’ll aim for a sunrise visit or perhaps a backpacking trip. I imagine that those moments in the early light, when the forest is just beginning to stir, would be the best way to connect with this sacred place.
Sequoia facts:
Only grow on the western slopes of the California Sierra Nevada Mountain range, as they require a specific climate: moderate winters, minimal rain, moist-well-drained soil, and moderate temperatures overall. (Attempts to grow them elsewhere have failed.)
Rely on natural cycles of fire to open cones and prepare the soil for seedlings.
Have exceptionally thick (up to 3 ft thick), spongy, fire-resistant bark that’s rich in tannins, providing a natural shield against wildfires and insect infestations. Their high branches (up to 8 ft wide) stay out of reach of most fires. (We saw many trees with fire/lightning damage that were still living.)
Require water from snow melt, which they absorb through their shallow, wide root systems that are only ~5 ft below the surface.
Grow up to 300 ft high and live for 3,000 years!
Are an endangered species due to the threat of droughts and more intense wildfires.
General Sherman Tree – The largest living single-stem tree on Earth! (Can’t capture the scale with a picture.)
Height: 275 ft Weight: 4.1 million lbs Circumference: 101+ ft Age: ~2,700 years old
Castle Lake to Heart Lake, Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Mt. Shasta City, CA
Distance: <2.5 RT
Elevation Gain: ~680 ft
Difficulty: Easy to moderate, depending on your fitness level and sensitivity to altitude (5k-6k ft)
I discovered another gem of a hike in the Shasta-Trinity National Forest, some have called it one of the premier hikes in the region. I guess I know how to pick them. It’s easy on effort and short on distance, but long on rewards. Especially if you’re into alpine lakes, reflection shots, and great views of Mt. Shasta, Black Butte, and Mount McLoughlin.
The single-track trail winds through a few rocky stretches, gradually climbing to captivating Heart Lake at an elevation of 6,050 ft, where you’ll be dazzled by the reflections.
If you have more time than I did, you can take dip in any of the lakes, hike the spur trail to Little Castle Lake (add 2 miles RT and a steep 250 ft climb) or continue to Mount Bradley (add 8 miles RT).
(I had less than 2 hours to sneak in a hike before dashing to the airport, so I wanted to make the most of it. Mission accomplished with this lovely hike that I paired with the super shortie hike just down the road on the way back to town—enchanting Faery Falls.)
Sometimes enchantment is just a short stroll away, as is the case with Faery Falls. Nestled in the Shasta-Trinity National Forest, Faery Falls is an easily accessible, enchanting waterfall that drops about 50 feet into a small pool. The short, easy hike on a dirt road above Ney Springs Creek passes a few stone remnants of the fountain from the old Ney Springs Resort. Watch for the single-track drop-in trail to the waterfall on the left at .8 mile. Some have described this final section as difficult – in adverse conditions such as mud, snow, or ice, it could be. In dry conditions with appropriate shoes, it’s no problem.
The falls area is small and enclosed by rocks and trees. It can become crowded quickly. Especially important to go early on a weekday if you want your best chance of solitude. Luckily, I was there early and had it to myself.
Views of Mt. Shasta on the way to the trail. Not sure what the rooster was doing there. Perhaps a pet from the VW double bus?
Notes: The Faery Falls “Trail” is the dirt road to the right of the large parking lot. Parking is free! This hike is easy to combine with the Castle Lake Trail to Heart Lake and beyond. (Post to come!)
Trailhead address: Ney Springs Road, Mount Shasta, CA 96067 Trailhead coordinates: 41.265953, -122.32439 (41° 15′ 57.43″N 122° 19′ 27.80″W)
Pro tip: Stop at Theory Coffee in Mt. Shasta City on the way in or out. They served me the BEST post-hike brioche breakfast sandwich I’ve ever had! It’s a bakery too, with incredible delights on display. (Didn’t get a shot of them as I was too busy drooling!)
The descent to Mooney Falls requires ducking through a narrow, low sandstone tunnel carved into the cliffside, followed by cautious navigation down eroded and slippery sandstone “footholds” to the ladder far below. While there are chains bolted into the rock for handholds in the most exposed sections, even with them, it feels a bit sketchy. The new wood ladder was slick with mud and mist, and its rungs were spaced wider than a comfortable leg stretch for me. With 6 years of rugged hiking, scrambling, and the occasional canyoneering adventure in Utah under my belt, you’d think I’d have less trepidation navigating this than I did in my younger years. But still, it gave me moments of pause. (On the way back up, I saw a toddler and a young boy scramble ahead of their parents up the cliffside. Yikes!)
The power of the waterfall and the amount of mist the rushing water created were tremendous! The sunlight through the mist caused a magical effect in my photo on the right.
Beaver Falls
~3 Miles from Mooney Falls
I’d never ventured beyond Mooney Falls before—there was never enough time. So I was especially grateful for the chance to explore further on this trip. The 3-mile hike from Mooney Falls to Beaver Falls is both enchanting and engaging, winding through a lush corridor of vines and trees along the turquoise creek. It feels like stepping into a jungle, with hidden oases revealing themselves around every bend.
After a few refreshing creek crossings, the trail leads you through a striking sandstone archway to a short make-shift mini-bridge water crossing, followed by a ladder cliff climb. Thankfully, the footing here was drier and more stable than the slippery ladder at Mooney Falls.
Beaver Falls was truly stunning—cascading tiers of turquoise water —but it was also crowded. I hardly took any photos. A brief moment of uninterrupted zen there below.
Thankfully, there were plenty of quieter “private” oases along the way, perfect for a peaceful dip or simply taking a moment to soak it all in. Beaver Falls is absolutely worth it, and the hike to it is fun—just be sure to get an early start if you’d like to experience it in solitude.
On the hike back, it was nearing critter hour. Much to my surprise, a bighorn sheep was just off the trail, seemingly scouting out a peaceful spot by the water to settle in for a nap. I had no idea that there were big horn down here!
Closer to the campgrounds, I spotted a blue heron, focused, mid-hunt—clearly having some luck with its evening catch. Pics are a bit blurry due to distance.
Leaving Eden
We started our return hike from the village just after dawn, hoping to beat the heat. Fortunately, most of the trail remained shaded until the final climb out of the canyon, which is fully exposed. Fortunately, there are a few rocky overhangs along the way—perfect spots to catch your breath and escape the unforgiving sun for a moment.
This adventure was nothing short of epic. I felt a pang of sadness as it came to an end, but also immense gratitude for the chance to return (thanks to my friend Bernie for securing the permits) and the opportunity to explore more than I ever had before. Among all my adventures near and far, the exquisite beauty and spiritual essence of Havasupai will forever hold a special place in my heart. I’ve never experienced anything quite like it. It remains one of my all-time favorites.
On the Loose Live 