Terrific Tama Lakes Track, Tongariro National Park, North Island, NZ

Distance: ~11 Miles

Elevation Gain: ~1,800 ft

Difficulty: Easy to Moderate (depending on your fitness level). The trail is so gradual, I didn’t notice the elevation gain until the last half-mile climb up loose, rocky scree to Upper Tama Lake.

When we learned that the Tongariro Alpine Crossing—widely considered the park’s top hike—was closed due to high winds and poor weather, the Tama Lakes Track became our backup plan. It didn’t disappoint. (AllTrails rates it #3 behind both the Tongariro Alpine Crossing #1 and #2 Taranaki Falls. I would rate it higher than the falls. But they’re both gorgeous!

With sweeping views of Lower and Upper Tama Lakes, Mount Ruapehu and Mount Ngauruhoe, and the narrow gorge of the dazzling Wairere Stream, the hike more than delivered. While the Tongariro Alpine Crossing may be more dramatic, it’s also barren and often crowded. Of course, there were a fair number of people on the Tama Lakes Trail, likely due to the Crossing’s closure.

For most of the route, the terrain is a relatively gentle gravel path that’s runnable, with easy footing.

An invigorating scene, the trail crosses over the narrow gorge of the dazzling Wairere Stream.

That changes during the final half-mile climb from Lower to Upper Tama Lake, where the trail steepens into loose, rocky scree that demands more attention and effort.

Here’s a video of the view from Upper Tama to Lower as the weather was changing.

You can also check out Taranaki Falls along the way. I highly recommend doing it on the way back, as the weather moves quickly here. In fact, it can turn in an instant, as I experienced, waiting for a friend to make the climb to Upper Tama. I watched his bright yellow rain jacket vanish into a wall of fog. One moment, the skies were clear; the next, the fog rolled in, and visibility was nil.

It’s easy to see how conditions like this can catch hikers off guard—whether from sudden exposure, hypothermia, or simply losing their bearings. Come prepared with layers and proper rain and wind gear, and don’t hesitate to turn back if conditions deteriorate.

Getting there: The trail starts from the road about 100 yards below the Whakapapa Visitor Centre.

Happy Trails!