Fifth Water Hot Springs has been on my radar for years. I’ve seen the gorgeous pictures on IG and FB, but I knew the experience would be more like an “attraction” than a hike, so I haven’t gone out of my way to check it out. On this adventure trip, it was on my way with daylight to burn. While its popularity is a major deterrent, I decided to brave the “crowds” and finally see it for myself.
I arrived midday. (Yes, it was a mistake, but it was either now or never). (If you can, go at dawn.) The parking lot was full. People were parked at risk along the roadside. Luckily, I found a pullout a mile back and didn’t get towed or ticketed. (However, I did see a tow truck getting busy on the way back.)
Lots of people (too many) on the trail and in the pools, as you’d expect. It definitely has more of a water park vibe. I guess that’s to be expected with an easy, short, 4.5-mile roundtrip hike near a big city (SLC).
The trail to the pools along the stream is especially lovely in the Fall.
As you get closer, there’s a slight smell of sulfur that seems to dissipate when you reach the pools.
The waterfall at the end was a nice surprise.
I satisfied my curiosity. Would I go back? Only if I can make it to the trailhead at dawn.
Notes: The road is closed in the winter. Info here. Harmful bacteria may be present in the hot springs. Info here
Getting there: Take the US-6 towards Price and make a left on Diamond Fork Road.
The Shadow to the Minaret (Agnew Meadows to Devil’s Postpile) route packs so much breathtaking beauty into a challenging 17-mile hike. Backpacking might be the best way to experience it, or you can choose a waterfall or any of the 7 amazing alpine lakes (Olaine, Shadow, Ediza, Iceberg, Cecile, Minaret, and Johnston) along the way as your destination for a shorter out-and-back hike. I wanted to see as much as I could in the limited time I had in the area, so I did it as a day hike.
Miles: 17, or create your own out-and-back adventure (~7 miles RT to enchanting Ediza Lake with only 400 feet elevation is an excellent option for a shorter day hike and is popular for good reason ).
Elevation gain: ~2.529
Difficulty: Hard/Challenging, especially for a day hike
From Agnew Meadows, you’ll encounter Olaine Lake first, then the gorgeous tiered Shadow Creek Falls, Shadow Lake, and dazzling Ediza Lake.
Enchanting Ediza Lake
Take the trail above Ediza Lake for a glimpse of dramatic Iceberg Lake.
From there, if you wish to venture beyond, you’ll have to climb/scramble the rugged loose scree and talus cliffs to reach Cecile Lake.
Note that I wouldn’t recommend attempting this if snow is present. There’s an argument if you’ve come this far to keep going. You’ll need to boulder hop for a half mile or so around Cecile to get to the slippery, rugged drop into Minaret Lake.
Scaling Iceberg’s cliffs, boulder hopping around Cecile, and “sliding down” the loose sandy “trail” into Minaret can be quite time-consuming despite these sections’ short distances. (Some AllTrails hikers reported it taking 2 hours for these miles 9 & 10 .) I made it up Iceberg in 20 minutes or so, but I am accustomed to scaling rugged, steep landscape. The boulder hopping around Cecile Lake was slow going for me, and the slide down into Minaret was even slower as my knees did not appreciate the vertical angle.
From Minaret to Devil’s Postpile, it’s all downhill with some rocky sections. Highlights include a wonderful, wide, terraced waterfall, and close to the end, a cool canyon area with a stream going through it, and finally, Johnston Lake.
Notes:
Get to the Agnew Meadows trailhead before 7am for self-drive and parking, or take the shuttle.
Equipment: Would poles have helped on the descent to Minaret? I’m not sure. Personally, I prefer to have my hands free. Prophylactically for me, knee braces would have been a good call, but not needed until the Minaret descent. If you’re going over 12 miles, I’d recommend hiking shoes. Much as I love hiking in light trail runners, my feet were beaten up/done at the end of this 17-mile day.
Was it worth it? ABSOLUTELY! I hope you can see why.
The Eastern Sierras Ruby Mountain range (often compared to the Alps) was named for the gems found there during the gold rush. The name is a misnomer, though, as the dark red gems discovered in these mountains were garnets, not rubies.
While no gold was ever found in the Ruby Mountains, treasures abound—two dozen dazzling alpine lakes and streams lively with Rainbow, Brook, and Lahontan Cutthroat Trout, meadows, and healthy forests. This rich wilderness area is home to one of the largest mule deer herds in Nevada and populations of mountain goats, bighorn sheep, and Himalayan Snowcock. (Oddly, I didn’t see any of them on my overnight backpack.)
The Ruby Mountains’ craggy, glacier-carved peaks rise nearly 5,000 feet above the valley below and are capped by Ruby Dome at 11,387 feet. The elevation on the trails ranges from 7,ooo ft to 11k. Trail length varies from a couple of miles to multi-day thru-hikes—choose your adventure. The main trails are well-marked and maintained, easy to follow, and easy on the feet. Explore for an afternoon or overnight backpack, as I did. If you’re like me, you’ll be dazzled by the glimmering alpine lakes and the sparkling night sky.
I went on an overnight backpacking trip here in September 2023. Yes, I’m way behind in my posts (understatement). I explored half a dozen lakes, including Liberty Lake, Lamoile Lake, Farvre Lake, and Castle Lake. I shall return and will provide more details then. Until then, click here for more info about the Rubies from “Travel Nevada.”
By now, you know that I have a thing for alpine lakes. While I could have lingered for days at any of the gems I visited, I did venture up above the treeline to take in the grand views as well. As you can see, it’s a completely ifferent vibe at a higher elevation – there are ten peaks over 10k feet here, and the highest is Ruby Dome at 11,387 feet
Night skies are wonderfulhere (Saw a rocket launch and a huge meteor!) And even on a weekend, solitude abounds!
Note of caution: Elko is 21 miles away from the Ruby’s; you’d think a place so close to this spectacular wilderness area would take pride in its gateway status. Sadly, Elko has one of the highest crime rates in America compared to communities of all sizes. (Elko’s population is only 20K!) The chance of becoming a victim of violent or property crime is 1 in 30. YIKES! Making it your adventure base camp, especially if you are a woman traveling solo, is ill-advised. Bring a hiking buddy and head for the mountains. (Common sense—don’t leave any valuables in the car.
Elko history: Elko was settled in 1869 with the development of the Transcontinental Railroad and became a base for gold and silver mining and livestock ranching. Unfortunately, it seems that it’s been downhill since then. There are 6 legal brothels in this small town of 20k, and the seedy element they attract is
Getting there:
From Elko, follow State Route 227 southeast toward the tiny town of Lamoille. Just before entering Lamoille town limits, turn right on the paved 12-mile Lamoille Canyon Scenic Byway and follow it to the parking area at its terminus.
Happy Trails!
(Here I am overloaded with my old heavyweight gear (3 lb surf backpack, 3.5 lb sleeping bag, 7.5 lb tent, 4 liters/8 lbs of water, etc., etc.). My last overnight backpack was years ago on Mt. Whitney. I guess my knees and back could still handle a heavy, poorly distributed load then. This time, the struggle was real. In the picture here, who knows if I’m grimacing or smiling in relief that most of the climbing was done. Since then I have opted for ultralight camping gear, which cuts my load by more than half. Stay tuned for an upcoming gear post.
Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous, depending upon your fitness level (3k ft climb in ~2 miles). Class 2.
Corkscrew Peak (5,804 ft) is the imposing sentinel in the Grapevine Mountains of northern Death Valley National Park. It looks intimidating from afar and upon the approach, but the trail isn’t bad, and it’s a great workout. Definitely one of the most unique peaks I’ve seen.
Speaking of trails, the first portion requires some route finding. Head West from the Corkscrew Peak sign and follow the wide wash towards the peak. The route is cairned, gentle, and gradual, leading you to a narrow canyon area at about the 2-mile mark. Here, you’ll scramble up and out of the wash on the left. You’ll climb the spiraling rocky trail for the next 2 miles. Watch your footing, as there are many spots of loose gravel. All told you’ll be climbing 3,360 feet to the top—most of it packed into a somewhat intense 2 miles.
Right before you reach the top, there’s a cool natural window, a nice spot to return to enjoy a snack, and the view before the steep, slippery descent.
From the top, you’ll enjoy splendid views of Death Valley and surrounding peaks, including Langley, Whitney, and Telescope. You can also document your peak bag in the summit record, which is in a metal container wedged between some rocks at the top.
Getting there:
From the Visitors Center at Furnace Creek, drive ~ 11 miles N on State Highway 190 to the signed, paved Daylight Pass Cutoff Road toward Beatty, NV. Turn right and follow this road 10 miles to a signed road fork at Hell’s Gate. Go right onto Daylight Pass Road and drive 0.9 miles. Park on the dirt shoulder.
Notes: The initial section of the trail is a wide wash north of the road. The trail is slippery in sections with loose gravel “marbles; choose hiking or trail running shoes with the best traction. Some recommend poles for the way down. Personally, I do better on slippery downhill if my hands are free. It’s possible to trail run up, but be cautious on the way down.
Difficulty: Easy to moderate, varies depending on the trail(s) chosen, length, and your fitness level
If you’re in the Scottsdale area and have time for a field trip, I highly recommend an excursion to Cave Creek. Hike the Spur Cross Ranch Conservation Area and enjoy the Saguaro “forest”, refreshing shaded creek-side trail, and if you keep your eyes open, you may get lucky and spot some petroglyphs too.
Choose your own adventure from 16 hiking and equestrian trails in this 2,154-acre area. My friend and I combined a couple of trails (Spur Crossing, Tortuga, and Dragonfly) for ~8 miles with ~1k of climbing. The terrain is mostly run-friendly.
After your adventure, head to town to quench your thirst, refuel, and shop in this blended authentic/tourist trap Western town that was settled in 1870.
Getting there: 29 miles from Scottsdale, via AZ-101 Loop N and N Scottsdale Rd44000 N Spur Cross Rd, Cave Creek, AZ 85331
Notes: Spur Cross Ranch Conservation Area $3 per person fee. Picnic tables and port-a-potties are available at the trailhead parking area.
We all scream for ice cream at the City Creamery
I had the best ice cream of my life at The City Creamery, home of handmade, small-batch ice cream in 16 favorites varieties and exotic seasonal flavors. (I’m not that much of an ice cream monger, but oh, my—delicious, chocolate infused with orange!) Also, their scoop portions are HUGE. However, I did manage to eat it all.
On the Loose Live 