Biking day 4 withTop Bike Tours Portugalwas tops in my book, yet again. The day began with a steep, mist-shrouded climb up a slick cobblestone street to the ruins of the 12th-century Castle de Aljezur.
If you’re wondering what it’s like to ride straight uphill on damp, sandy cobblestones—it’s no joke. Especially if you’re not clipped in or riding an e-bike. I now have a whole new respect for the Tour de France riders.
This was one of only two hills that got the best of me on this trip (both cobblestone), not a bad record considering how many steep hills we encountered, my knee issues, and being unclipped. I made it about a third of the way, just behind one e-biker and one clipped-in cyclist. Then my tire slipped. I lost traction and had to surrender to the dreaded walk of shame for the final climb portion. Sigh. How steep and slippery was it? Let’s put it this way, many of our e-bikers ended up walking it too.
The ruins were interesting and the view from the top was lovely—lush green fields stretching out below, and the white-washed village of Aljezur nestled peacefully in the valley.
Fortunately, our route didn’t take us back down that treacherous cobblestone. Descending the same way would’ve been an entirely different kind of adventure.
We went from that crazy cobblestone climb to cruising sweet, less-traveled, wide, paved roads down to the coast, stopping for coffee and snacks in a small surf village.
After pedaling through the charming village of Arrifana, we followed a pristine gravel path that wound through a quiet forest and eventually opened to the stunning coast. Our lunch spot awaited us on a seaside cliff, perched above the ruins of an ancient Islamic fishing village dating back to the 12th and 13th centuries.
Our lunch times were drifting later and later into the afternoons. To emphasize the freshness of the day’s catch, our waiter brought “a portion” of it straight to the table—huge half fish in hand. Famished, I went all in on a decadent seafood pasta, which I devoured almost as quickly as it arrived.
Much to my delight, our next stop was a surf beach in Carrapateira. Even though we only had half an hour to play in the waves—and it had been years since I last surfed—I couldn’t resist. I rented a wetsuit and a board and jumped right in, and managed to get up on my first wave. Yes, I was a bit of a “kook” after all these years, but I had a blast, and the water wasn’t nearly as cold as I’d expected.
With 30 miles covered, we still had 8 cross-country miles to go before reaching our lodging for the night.
Saving the best for last, we charged along winding singletrack, through wildflower-strewn fields and splashy water crossings—an exhilarating finish to the day. Our reward? Cozy countryside accommodations and a well-earned dinner at the “Inn’s” welcoming restaurant.
What a day! Any portion of it would have been incredible on its own — but packing all that fun into a single day? Next level. From exploring castle ruins and cruising through coastal villages to riding cross-country through quiet forest trails, enjoying a decadent seaside lunch above ancient ruins, sneaking in an afternoon surf session, and capping it all off with a sunset mountain bike style ride through the countryside, followed by a fantastic dinner — oh my! Top Bike Tours Portugal delivers one epic day after another!
After a solid night’s sleep and another heavenly breakfast buffet, we hit the road for biking day 3 with Top Bike Tours Portugal.
We rolled through peaceful countryside and farmland on a mix of paved roads and dusty trails.
After huffing our way up a steep cobblestone hill —legs burning (well, those of us on regular bikes that is), spirits high—we were rewarded with a surprise at the top: a cluster of unlikely expats appearing like a mirage. Apparently, residents of the Safari Lodge Kuanza.
Our next surprise was a private tour of the legendary “Queen of Fado”, Amália Rodrigues’ spectacular cliffside estate. Telmo casually tapped in the code at the remote entrance gate and guided us in. Privileged!
Amália wasn’t just a singer; she was a force of nature. A poet, lyricist, actress, and Portugal’s most iconic voice, she poured raw emotion into every note of Lisbon’s soulful folk music. Her songs of longing and love captivated not just Portugal but the entire world, earning her accolades and honors from every corner of the globe.
Before the grand house took shape in the 1960s, Amália made her home in this cozy “cottage” tucked into the property.
Sign me up! Is there a more splendid setting than this for a B&B? Imagine waking up to the sounds of waves crashing into the shore of the rugged wild beach below, and surveying the last untouched, preserved coastal stretch of the Algarve, Vicentina Coast Natural Park. Oh my! If you’re in the area, I highly recommend that you book a room or at least take a tour.
The estate is hosted by Amalia’s charming cousin and engaging storyteller, Antonio Felipe Gomes, who gives tours and shares highlights and personal anecdotes of Amalia’s life and legacy.
From “Herdade Amalia’s”, we continued our cycling journey along dirt roads with grand views of the coast, whitewashed houses, and verdant countryside.
Our next surprise stop was at Junior Jaques Medronho Distillery, where one of the owners, Alfonso, passionately shared the story behind their journey to honor a cultural pastime and involve the local community in its revival. At the heart of it all is medronho, the fruit of the wild medronho tree.
Smoother than vodka, richer than whiskey with a fruity kick that leaves gin in the dust, it’s a flavor that tells a story. For centuries, locals in this region have handpicked medronho berries, using them in everything from homemade recipes to secret family distillations. Now, thanks to Alfonso and his team, that age-old tradition is being shared with the world, one handpicked berry and one sip at a time.
Of course, the experience couldn’t be considered complete without a tasting—there were a few varieties to sample. We politely sipped the tantalizing, heady spirits—it was 2PM, we’d long since burned off our breakfast buffet, and we still had a couple of miles to ride before lunch.
From the distillery, we rode back down the gravel road, crossed a short bridge, and followed a narrow, surprisingly busy, paved road into the picturesque village of Oxienta, nestled between the sea and the River Seixe.
At this point, we were all a bit overeager for lunch. The hollowness of our bellies had been punctuated by the intensity of the medronho spirits.
Along the road into the village was an amazing, vibrant, dynamic 260-foot mural. The group rode on, but I had to stop to marvel and capture pictures, only fragments, which don’t do justice to the splendor, scale, energy, or impact of this magnificent work of art.
A serene, beautiful native woman framed by hibiscus (mother nature?), and two birds anchors the far left of the mural, blue and red foxes spring into the air over mushrooms on either side of a hybrid fox man holding a rooster, a sea bird feeds her young, and at the other end a white-bearded, wool- capped fisherman amidst colorful fish and birds in flight (didn’t capture that section). See the entire span of the mural and learn about the artist, OZEARV, and his work here and on IG as OzeArv.
Commissioned by the Odeceixe Parish Board, Lisbon-born artist OZEARV, describes his work, “110 Steps to the Sea” on IG as follows: “[…]a reflection on the natural landscape and the socio-cultural fabric of the territory. I intended to celebrate the biodiversity[…]A painting that accompanies the River Seixe in which I tried to convey the feelings inherent to the transition from the past to modernity, reflecting the customs and traditions of the village that marks the border between Alentejo and the Algarve and what I consider to be a meeting place, inclusion and respect for nature. [Also, from the first to the last step, this is a mural that reflects on the journey of life, even if you are a human or any other animal, it’s part of life to take that walk from birth till death.
I would humbly ask the Odeceixe Parish Board to consider creating a walking and cycling path across from the mural so you can appreciate the artwork at your own pace without concern for traffic. After hastily snapping my pics of the mural, I joined the others for lunch in the delightful village square.
I devoured a fresh poke bowl.
After lunch, came a bit of unintended excitement.
We kicked off the final stretch of the day toward our overnight stop in Aljezur—riding along a fast, smooth, scenic section that hugged the river and ended with a punchy little climb that came out of nowhere. The group was riding faster than they had yet. (Yes, all but 3 of us were on ebikes, but despite being on ebikes, their pace had been surprisingly slow previously. You’ll understand why this is relevant in a moment.)
Just as we were gearing up for that ascent, I noticed something strange: no sign of Bradley. Usually, at the front of the pack with his clip-in bike shoes and steady pace, he was MIA. I turned around and sprinted back, calling out and checking with everyone I passed. Even our trusty volunteer “sweeper” gave me a clueless “nope” (though I’m pretty sure he mentally handed in his sweeper duties right then and there). Where’s Bradley?
So, off I went again—sprinting back up now to catch our fearless leader, Telmo, who was already powering up that hill. I shouted, but the wind swallowed the sound. It took some serious effort, but I finally caught up with him, and between gasps for air, I explained the situation. Cool and collected as ever, Telmo gathered the group in a scenic pullout to wait, then turned back and took off like a hero on a rescue mission.
With no cell service, it felt a bit hectic for a minute… until, moments later, who rolls up in the van with Pedro but Bradley, grinning sheepishly. Turns out he was head down strapping on his bike shoes when we disappeared into the cobblestone mini maze, all of us assuming he was right behind us. Luckily, he saw Pedro, our ever-reliable driver, and the van just around the corner. In the end, Telmo and I got some bonus cardio, and Bradley has a story to tell about that time he was “almost stranded” on a bike tour in Portugal.
After that hill I mentioned, the scenic, winding road continued to climb steadily for a few miles. Then suddenly, we were flying, soaring downhill for miles on a world-class descent straight into Aljezur. I do believe it was the longest downhill I’ve ever ridden. So smooth and fast that you forget every uphill pedal stroke that came before it. (Would certainly make for an “interesting” ascent.)
Whoohoo, what a day! We had just enough time to check in, freshen up, and swap out our bike outfits for something civilian. As the sun dipped low, we wandered over to the restaurant.
The restaurant was quite unassuming from the outside. Our host greeted us with a knowing smile and led us through a discreet side entrance. We ducked under the low stone arch entrance and stepped down into a hidden underground cavern with a private dining area for our group—it felt like we were guests in a medieval castle. Yet another unexpected and enchanting twist to end the day.
While the details of this meal are a bit fuzzy (we were all a bit wiped out from our full day at that point), I do recall the stroll back to the hotel in the magical moonlight.
Speaking of castles, little did we know then that the next morning’s first stop after a brutally steep cobblestone climb would be the ruins of an old fortress. Stay tuned for Biking Day 4 with Top Bike Tours Portugal.
Happy Adventures on Foot or Wheels! Loving Portugal! Can you tell?
While it was bittersweet to leave lovely Vila Nova de Mil Fontes behind, we were all looking forward to what the new day with Top Bike Tours Portugal would bring.
Once again, we followed our trusty guide, Telmo, through a maze of paved and gravel roads.
One of our scenic stops was at the picturesque Zambujeira do Mar Cabo do Sardao Lighthouse, where the striated and serrated rocks in the sea meet the flowered-top cliff for postcard-like photo ops.
Gosh, I could spend days immersing myself in this splendid scenery, but we were off again to take in the beauty and charm of the tiny seaside village of Zambujeira (population 911). Zambujeria would later stand out as one of my many favorite hamlets. We enjoyed a refreshing lunch and gelato treat in a restaurant on the cliff overlooking the sea.
Top Bike Tours Portugaloutdid themselves with an amazing itinerary today, including a private tour and tasting experience at the splendid Vincentino winery (as nice or nicer than Napa and Sonoma wineries that I’ve been to and as delightfully palatable).
A sumptuous seaside dinner feast followed at a local, seaside, family-owned restaurant.
And if all that wasn’t enough, when we returned to the hotel, we were treated to a surprise, private, traditional Portuguese Fado concert—“Oh, my!”
Without question, this was one of my “top” days in Portugal, but then again, it seems so was every day that I spent with Top Bike Tours Portugal.
Distance: ~33 Miles Elevation Gain: 1,047 Ft Terrain: A mix of road & off-road
After a delicious buffet breakfast at the Octant Hotel, we saddled up, donned our new “Top Bike Tours Portugal” jerseys, and began our first day’s biking adventure.
We followed our wonderful guide, Pedro, [Top Bike Tours Portugal], into the lovely countryside via a maze of paved roads and gravel, dirt, and sandy paths. Encountering engaging vistas and a surprise around every corner.
At our morning rest stop, we were treated to our first glimpses of street art. The sea breeze foreshadowed that we would soon be at the captivating coast!
Soon we would be pedaling alongside the sea and taking scenic breaks to immerse ourselves in the rugged, ravishing natural beauty around each corner. Other than sharing it with a few hikers, we had much of the breathtaking scenery all to ourselves.
I kept thinking, “Wow, this must be the best part”, and it would just keep getting better and better. As would each moment, hour, and day of this epic bike adventure!
We enjoyed a leisurely lunch stop in the charming, fishing village of Porto Covo (population 1,400), where white-washed houses and restaurants with brilliant blue trim perch atop a hill overlooking the raging Atlantic Ocean and the rugged Alentejo western coast. I enjoyed the freshest tuna salad drizzled with the delicious local olive oil, and my friend had clams in garlic butter. (Fortunately, he was generous enough to share a couple of those sumptuous morsels.)
We would see many more hikers in the days that followed as our biking route encompassed segments of the Fisherman’s Trail, which is part of the Rota Vicentina, a network of hiking and biking routes throughout southwest Portugal, spanning the beautiful Alentejo and Algarve regions. The Fisherman’s Trail is a 78-mile-long coastal trail that’s described as one of the most stunning coastal trails in the world. (Indeed, I’m convinced!) Known for its spectacular seaside scenery, including dramatic cliffs, sandy beaches, and charming fishing villages, the route follows the wild Atlantic coastline from Porto Covo to Cabo de São Vicente.
After our tasty lunch, it was onward towards Vila Nova de Mil Fontes (population ~6k). However, first came a steep, rocky descent and a short dirt climb, which the e-bike group navigated with a little trepidation. Most had not ridden off-road before, and many were caught off guard by the “technical” challenges we encountered.
The view from our room at the Vila Nova de Mil Fontes Beach Hotel did not disappoint. The village was founded in 1486 by a royal charter granted by King João II and is located where the Mira River meets the sea.
After a refreshing post-ride libation (a Caipirinha for me), we took a relaxing stroll on the beach. (I developed my taste for this quenching cocktail on my cycling trip in Cuba and was delighted to find that they’re popular in Portugal too.)
Meet the friendly, well-fed feral felines of Vila Nova de Mil Fontes. (Say that 5 times – lol!)
Fun to share this awesome adventure with my yogi and hiking friend, Bradley! Here’s before and after cleaning up for dinner, and officially in full vacation mode! (Things came together as they often do for me, “Last minute Lydia”, about 2 weeks prior to “take-off”, and Bradley spontaneously jumped in to join in the fun. (Luckily, we were able to get in some saddle time prior as the rides were more challenging than advertised…Let’s just say that 16% grade hills were not an anomaly.)
That evening, we enjoyed our group dinner at a charming restaurant where we both “accidentally ordered” a fish casserole. Each individual serving was enough to feed a family!
On our after-dinner walkabout along the cobblestone streets of the old town village, we discovered the cliffside fortress/castle (built in 1599 by Filipe II of Portugal to fend off the constant pirate attacks on the village). We’d seen it earlier from the beach below, but it was so much more enchanting at night.
What an amazing day! I was so excited to see what tomorrow would bring.
Happy Active Adventures from Vila Nova de Mil Fontes!
If you missed my previous arrival day post and it’s not obvious at this point, yes, I wholeheartedly recommend Top Bike Tours Portugal. If you’re thinking about booking a tour with them, don’t hesitate! And please tell them I sent you. If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to message me.
SPOILER ALERT: This was one of the best bike tours and active vacations I’ve ever taken by far—the guides and support van, the challenging, engaging road and gravel routes, the quality of the hotels and restaurants, the spectacular scenery, and ALL the cultural add-ons – private tour of Amalia Rodrigues, Portugal’s “Queen of Fado” spectacular Frank Lloyd Write inspired cliffside. seaside home, the surprise private Fado concert, fortress tour, winery & distillery tours, etc. (As you probably know by now, I’ve taken a few bike tours and travel adventures, including Cuba, Thailand, etc.)Top Bike Tours Portugal exceeded expectations across the board. (Note: I tried to be expectations-free, but let’s face it, I’m spoiled by all the beautiful places I’ve seen and the excellent adventures I’ve been privileged to have.)
Thelmo, Pedro, and Top Bike Tours made my first encounter with Portugal not only unforgettable, but it’s no overstatement to say, life-changing, as it was a scouting trip for me to find a new EU adventure base camp and home.
From the warmth of the people, the ravishing, pristine beauty of the coastlines, the exquisite cuisine, the extensive and challenging road and gravel biking, the surfing, and the enchanting, white-washed villages, I was spellbound. I left my heart in Portugal, and I’ll reunite with it sometime in the not-too-distant future… In the meantime, I’ll relive my incredible journey along the Vincente Coast and the Algarve in the posts to come.
After conducting some research, I chose Top Bike Tours Portugal because I’d read a couple of rave reviews on an international middleman site that mentioned the company and guide by name. I also wanted to go direct to ensure that the local company would receive the entirety of my payment. While self-guided options were available, since navigation isn’t my strong suit, I chose the guided option with full Support and Gear (SAG) Van, which was only about $100 more per day and so worth it for the added peace of mind.
A break in my work schedule allowed me to join the “reduced” (shorter version) of the Vincente Coast Algarve 8-Day Bike Tour at the last minute. (Those who know me know me as “Last Minute Lydia,” and the way this trip and scheduling my subsequent eye surgery in Prague (more on this later) came together was in my typical spontaneous “if the stars align” fashion.
Total Distance and Mileage:141 miles with 8,290 feet of climbing.
Difficulty on regular bikes: Moderate ++, depending on your fitness level – the hills are no joke here, and they are plentiful – 16% grade was not an anomaly. Also, having some off-road bike handling experience is important. Many in our group were not experienced with the rougher terrain of off-road gravel biking, and exercised good judgment by walking the sketchier sections.
Day 1 – Arrival Lisbon and van transfer to Santiago do Cacém
Day 2 – Santiago do Cacém to Vila Nova de Mil Fontes
Day 3 – Vila Nova de Mil Fontes to Zambujeira do Mar
Day 4 – Zambujeira do Mar to Aljezur
Day 5 – Aljezur to Carrapateira
Day 6 – Carrapateira to Sagres
Day 7 – Sagres to Lagos
Day 8 – Departure
Arrival Day 1
We arrived at Lisbon Airport in the afternoon (after a long travel day from Utah) and were met by an Uber driver who took us to a hotel.
The featured image and the 2 images below are taken from my hotel room’s grass patio. In the distance, rooftops and a distant sea view. Across the way, a church and a castle dating back to the 5th century (didn’t realize it was there until I blew the photo up to write this blog).
At the hotel, we met with our guide, Thelmo, our support van driver, Pedro, and the rest of the tour group for introductions and bike fittings. Surprisingly, the group was comprised primarily of Americans (the exception being 2 Brazilian ladies). Out of the 14 of us, only 3, my friend Bradley, another fellow, and I opted for regular bikes; the rest chose e-bikes.
Much to my dismay, despite many valiant attempts by my friend, Bradley, and Thelmo and Pedro, the bike cleats I brought failed, so I would be left to ride on flat pedals without the knee-saving advantage of being clipped in. This would present quite a challenge on hills with my bone-on-bone knees, but I had to try. Of course, they offered me an e-bike, but, as you may know by now, I love challenges and being vigorous, and being a die-hard former triathlete and cyclist, I didn’t want to surrender my will to self-propel.
To shake off the effects of 24 hours of travel and give my legs a stretch, I took a quick walkabout before dinner. On my short scenic stroll, I encountered a couple of the well-fed local feral felines and discovered a windmill and Roman Ruins, which were closed for the night. I also saw what would be the first of many Cork Trees in the countryside. (Portugal is the world’s largest exporter of cork.) Cork trees typically take 25 years to reach maturity and then can be harvested every 10 years or so. The number on the tree connotes the next decade in which it can be harvested. Families that planted and cultivated cork trees leave an ecological, aesthetic, and financial legacy for whoever inherits or purchases the property, though climate change is beginning to compromise this, too.
And dinner, let’s just say my first taste of Portugal was savory, delicately seasoned, and one of the healthiest meals I’ve had in a long while. I enjoyed the pesto salad and grilled fresh fish, both of which were outstanding, while my friend savored the octopus. The fragrant local olive oil is the best I’ve tasted, and it added a wonderful, subtle flavor dimension to both the pesto and the fish.
And then it was off to bed for some much-needed sleep, dreaming of the days to come…
On the Loose Live 