Category: Explorations

Third Time’s a Charm: Big Love for Big Pine Lakes Trail via North Fork, John Muir Wilderness, Eastern Sierras, Big Pine, CA

Third Time’s a Charm: Big Love for Big Pine Lakes Trail via North Fork, John Muir Wilderness, Eastern Sierras, Big Pine, CA

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Rats, all the scenery is too “grand” to fit in the featured photo. Please excuse the rough edit.

My route: Up the Big Pine Lakes North Fork Trail (Lakes 1-7 with the spur to Summit Lake), and down via the Black Lake Trail

Length: ~15.5 Miles

Elevation Gain: 3,986 ft

Difficulty: Depends on your fitness level and how far you go; while the elevation gain is gradual, it is significant, constant, and at altitude.

Trail Quality: Excellent, trail runnable! Well-marked and easy to follow!

This trail was a long unrequited love of mine. While I initially explored the area on two occasions decades ago, I never made it to all 1-7 numbered Lakes and Summit Lake and Black Lake until now. I fell in love all over again. It was even more stunning than I remembered.

Take 1

My first ill-fated overnight trip to the Big Pine North Fork Trail resulted in my hiking companion Chip getting altitude sickness and us having to make a hasty retreat. (Of course, we’d done everything you’re not supposed to do – we drove up from sea level to the trailhead at 7,660, charged up the trail 4 miles (gaining ~2k+elevation) to set up the tent near stunning Lake 2 before dark. With no time to eat dinner, we’d munched on fresh rosemary bread on the way up. Once we had the tent up, Chip became violently ill, vomiting multiple times. Meanwhile, his dog Chatz was becoming agitated- hair standing up, growling – this is bear country. I remember worrying about an apple I had in the tent; at the time, I didn’t realize that Chip was creating a bear smorgasbord outside. As Chip became sicker, it became obvious we had to abort our overnighter. It was dire enough that we thought about leaving the tent behind. There were no other hikers or campers around. I wondered how I would manage if I needed to carry Chip down. I worried that Chatz was going to have a run-in with a bear. Luckily, we all made it down the trail safely. As for Chip, predictably, he began to feel slowly but progressively better on the descent and was almost 100% within an hour of driving down from the trailhead. Since then, he has had an aversion to rosemary bread and higher altitudes. Despite being concerned about Chip’s well-being as marched down the trail with our headlamps, I recall being transfixed by the stark, ragged granite peaks glistening in the moonlight, the silence, and stillness. I vowed to return.

Take 2

When I returned a decade or so later, no idea what took me so long, I came with a mountain biking buddy who wanted to charge up the trail to the Palisade Glacier (the largest glacier in the Eastern Sierra). The trail spur to reach the glacier is about a 1/2 mile beyond Third Lake. Given that we prioritized the Palisade Glacier as our day hike destination (19 miles with 4,646 ft of elevation gain) and didn’t get an early start, we barely had time to nod to the 3 spectacular lakes we “ran” by on the way up and down. (If you know me, you know I’m more of an alpine lake person than a glacier person.) Once again, I vowed to return to immerse myself in those lakes’ beauty.

Take 3

Over a decade later (again, I have no idea what took me so long), I returned with my hiking buddy and expert back-country guide, Colin, the most earnest person I know about getting the most out of every hike. And this was no exception. We hit EVERY numbered alpine lake (1-7) plus Summit Lake and Black Lake, with ample time to bliss out at each.

How had I forgotten about the mesmerizing trailside rushing rapids and waterfalls of Big Pine Creek? I’m guessing there must not have been much snowmelt when I went previously.

I’m not going to number the lakes for you. You need to go discover them one by one for yourself. Here’s a sampling:

If you fish, you might get as lucky as the fellow who caught and released this big beauty.

On the Black Lake trail down, we were treated to patches of colorful wildflowers and breathtaking views of the lakes from above.

And there was also time for my yoga pose photobombing and blissful immersion! I vow to return before another decade passes!

And so the sun must set on even the most beloved adventure so another one can begin.

Happy Trails!

Tell me, what trails have you fallen in love with, and do you long to return to?

Crystal Lake Trail: Gateway to a Multitude of Alpine Lakes and Ponds, Kamas, UT

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If you like alpine lakes and friendly trails, you’ll have plenty to choose from, starting at the Crystal Lake Trail and hiking in virtually any direction. Forget peak bagging for the day and enjoy some lake hopping instead. This area wins my record for most lakes and ponds in the least mileage. The more miles you cover, the more lakes and ponds you’ll see in this dazzling area of the Western Unitas. I combined 2 loops going in opposite directions and visited a mind-blowing 32 lakes and ponds in 15 miles—yep, that’s a whopping 2 sparkling lakes per mile. (But whose counting? LOL, the Garmin, thank goodness, as I lost track!) Despite the parking lots being jam-packed, surprisingly enough, the trails weren’t overrun. (Island Lake had the most people—big family groups.) Overall, I saw more lakes and ponds than people—now that’s a perfect scenario.

Distance: Create your own lake-hopping adventure.

Difficulty: Easy to moderate+, depending on your fitness level and altitude acclimation

Altitude: All hikes in the 10k ft range

Getting there: Milepost 25.5 off of the Mirror Lake Highway. (This highway is closed from late October through Memorial Day.)

Notes: Parking and overflow lots fill fast in peak season, especially on the weekends. There are several campsites in the area, but most require reservations. Boondocking and backpacking are options.

Ruby Mountains, a Sparkling Crowned Jewel in the Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest, NV

Ruby Mountains, a Sparkling Crowned Jewel in the Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest, NV

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The Eastern Sierras Ruby Mountain range (often compared to the Alps) was named for the gems found there during the gold rush. The name is a misnomer, though, as the dark red gems discovered in these mountains were garnets, not rubies.

While no gold was ever found in the Ruby Mountains, treasures abound—two dozen dazzling alpine lakes and streams lively with Rainbow, Brook, and Lahontan Cutthroat Trout, meadows, and healthy forests. This rich wilderness area is home to one of the largest mule deer herds in Nevada and populations of mountain goats, bighorn sheep, and Himalayan Snowcock. (Oddly, I didn’t see any of them on my overnight backpack.)

The Ruby Mountains’ craggy, glacier-carved peaks rise nearly 5,000 feet above the valley below and are capped by Ruby Dome at 11,387 feet. The elevation on the trails ranges from 7,ooo ft to 11k. Trail length varies from a couple of miles to multi-day thru-hikes—choose your adventure. The main trails are well-marked and maintained, easy to follow, and easy on the feet. Explore for an afternoon or overnight backpack, as I did. If you’re like me, you’ll be dazzled by the glimmering alpine lakes and the sparkling night sky.

I went on an overnight backpacking trip here in September 2023. Yes, I’m way behind in my posts (understatement). I explored half a dozen lakes, including Liberty Lake, Lamoile Lake, Farvre Lake, and Castle Lake. I shall return and will provide more details then. Until then, click here for more info about the Rubies from “Travel Nevada.”

By now, you know that I have a thing for alpine lakes. While I could have lingered for days at any of the gems I visited, I did venture up above the treeline to take in the grand views as well. As you can see, it’s a completely ifferent vibe at a higher elevation – there are ten peaks over 10k feet here, and the highest is Ruby Dome at 11,387 feet

Night skies are wonderful here (Saw a rocket launch and a huge meteor!) And even on a weekend, solitude abounds!

Note of caution: Elko is 21 miles away from the Ruby’s; you’d think a place so close to this spectacular wilderness area would take pride in its gateway status. Sadly, Elko has one of the highest crime rates in America compared to communities of all sizes. (Elko’s population is only 20K!) The chance of becoming a victim of violent or property crime is 1 in 30. YIKES! Making it your adventure base camp, especially if you are a woman traveling solo, is ill-advised. Bring a hiking buddy and head for the mountains. (Common sense—don’t leave any valuables in the car.

Elko history: Elko was settled in 1869 with the development of the Transcontinental Railroad and became a base for gold and silver mining and livestock ranching. Unfortunately, it seems that it’s been downhill since then. There are 6 legal brothels in this small town of 20k, and the seedy element they attract is

Getting there:

From Elko, follow State Route 227 southeast toward the tiny town of Lamoille. Just before entering Lamoille town limits, turn right on the paved 12-mile Lamoille Canyon Scenic Byway and follow it to the parking area at its terminus.

Happy Trails!

(Here I am overloaded with my old heavyweight gear (3 lb surf backpack, 3.5 lb sleeping bag, 7.5 lb tent, 4 liters/8 lbs of water, etc., etc.). My last overnight backpack was years ago on Mt. Whitney. I guess my knees and back could still handle a heavy, poorly distributed load then. This time, the struggle was real. In the picture here, who knows if I’m grimacing or smiling in relief that most of the climbing was done. Since then I have opted for ultralight camping gear, which cuts my load by more than half. Stay tuned for an upcoming gear post.

Discover Provo River Falls, a Scenic Must Stop Along Mirror Lake Highway (150), Kamas, UT

Discover Provo River Falls, a Scenic Must Stop Along Mirror Lake Highway (150), Kamas, UT

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Just when I thought the scenery along Mirror Lake Highway couldn’t get better, I saw the sign for Provo River Falls and turned off (<15 minutes east of Kamas). This enchanting roadside waterfall has three tiers (upper, mid, and lower), lovely terraces, and multiple cascades. It’s a must-stop if you’re driving Highway 150. There’s a short paved path alongside the 3 waterfalls. The water temperature ranges from 35 to 55 degrees so the mist from the waterfall is wonderfully refreshing, especially on a hot day.

Enjoy!

Magnificent Mount Timpanogos in July Never Disappoints: Wildflowers, Waterfalls, Wildlife, and Wild Views-Oh My! (Via Timpooneke, Trail), UT

Magnificent Mount Timpanogos in July Never Disappoints: Wildflowers, Waterfalls, Wildlife, and Wild Views-Oh My! (Via Timpooneke, Trail), UT

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Distance: ~13 Miles RT

Elevation Gain: 4,856 ft

Difficulty: Moderate to hard, depending on your fitness level and acclimation to altitude

My second splendid summit of Mount Timpanogos (11,753 ft) was via the Timpooneke Trailhead. (And yep, I’m sticking with the same title. Mount Timpanogos simply has ALL the ingredients for a great hike. I’ve seen Mt. Timpanogos from both sides now (Aspen Grove Trailhead and Timpooneke), and both routes are gorgeous. Mount Timpanogos still ranks as the best US hike I’ve done.

Trail Notes: Keep your eyes open; at Mile 1, the trail takes a sharp right turn. (I kept going straight on what appeared to be a wide, well-traveled trail that stopped short across a stream. I ended up scaling a waterfall avalanche chute before it dawned on me that I was on another one of my “off trail explorations”—yep, I know, lol. I later learned I wasn’t the only one and suggested to the ranger that a sign might be advisable.)

At the 3-mile mark, a “snow bridge” had collapsed across the middle of a waterfall, requiring careful traversing of the slanted, slippery snow field. The picture below may not look too treacherous, but there is a waterfall crevasse directly under the snow. One slip could be a big, potentially final slip if you know what I mean.

Crampons would help, but given the onslaught of the heat wave we’ve been having, this section won’t be an obstacle for long. Other than that, the trail is well-marked until you reach the Emerald Lake juncture. The Summit Trail (054) is the unmarked (I’m not sure why) trail to the right.

Cons: This route seems busier/more crowded. (I was there on a weekend. I’m sure it’s better on a weekday.) You may want to challenge yourself with the extra 1k of elevation that the Aspen Grove route delivers.)

Pros: It’s easier—there is 1,000 feet less elevation gain, and a couple of miles shorter. Best of all, you completely bypass the tortuous snow and talus field that takes forever to painstakingly cross on the Aspen Grove route. (See picture below.) Footing is easy the entire way on the Timpooneke route perhaps that’s why it’s so popular with trail runners.

On the way up, you’ll go through what I’ll call “Moose Meadow,” where I saw the moose below with her calf.

You get a great “bowl” view of Timp’s peak above and surrounding peaks from the wildflower-filled meadow basin.

After which, the trail begins to climb in earnest to the Timp Saddle, where you’ll enjoy sweeping views of Utah Valley and the summit ahead. If you’re lucky, you may see grazing, napping, or salt-licking mountain goats along the way. Give the mountain goats space and respect. I(I have a great magnifier on my camera.) (While the goats look docile, they have been known to kill loose dogs that harass them (3 loose dogs were killed by goats last year) and gore people who get too close.)

I saw several off-leash dogs—doesn’t seem prudent! I’m guessing the moose wouldn’t take kindly to the loose dogs, either.

To reach the summit, mild scrambling is required. The section is short and nontechnical, but it is not for the faint of heart or those scared of heights. The panoramic views are tremendous, but it was a bit hazy when I summited—perhaps due to the wildfires in the surrounding areas.

Did I mention waterfalls? Lots!

Notes: On weekends, you need to reserve a parking spot: Timpooneke Parking Reservations

Caution: This hike involves significant elevation gain and hiking at elevation. Be aware of the signs of altitude sickness. It can sneak up on you even if you’ve never had it before. It happened to me recently on Wheeler Peak. On the way down Timpanogos, a teenage girl was in a fetal position by the trail, holding her head. Her family had called for rescue. Hopefully, she’s okay.

Happy and Safe Trails!