Category: Hikes

Spectacular Shadow of the Minaret, Inyo National Forest, Mammoth, CA.

Spectacular Shadow of the Minaret, Inyo National Forest, Mammoth, CA.

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The Shadow to the Minaret (Agnew Meadows to Devil’s Postpile) route packs so much breathtaking beauty into a challenging 17-mile hike. Backpacking might be the best way to experience it, or you can choose a waterfall or any of the 7 amazing alpine lakes (Olaine, Shadow, Ediza, Iceberg, Cecile, Minaret, and Johnston) along the way as your destination for a shorter out-and-back hike. I wanted to see as much as I could in the limited time I had in the area, so I did it as a day hike.

Miles: 17, or create your own out-and-back adventure (~7 miles RT to enchanting Ediza Lake with only 400 feet elevation is an excellent option for a shorter day hike and is popular for good reason ).

Elevation gain: ~2.529

Difficulty: Hard/Challenging, especially for a day hike

From Agnew Meadows, you’ll encounter Olaine Lake first, then the gorgeous tiered Shadow Creek Falls, Shadow Lake, and dazzling Ediza Lake.

Enchanting Ediza Lake

Take the trail above Ediza Lake for a glimpse of dramatic Iceberg Lake.

From there, if you wish to venture beyond, you’ll have to climb/scramble the rugged loose scree and talus cliffs to reach Cecile Lake.

Note that I wouldn’t recommend attempting this if snow is present. There’s an argument if you’ve come this far to keep going. You’ll need to boulder hop for a half mile or so around Cecile to get to the slippery, rugged drop into Minaret Lake.

Scaling Iceberg’s cliffs, boulder hopping around Cecile, and “sliding down” the loose sandy “trail” into Minaret can be quite time-consuming despite these sections’ short distances. (Some AllTrails hikers reported it taking 2 hours for these miles 9 & 10 .) I made it up Iceberg in 20 minutes or so, but I am accustomed to scaling rugged, steep landscape. The boulder hopping around Cecile Lake was slow going for me, and the slide down into Minaret was even slower as my knees did not appreciate the vertical angle.  

From Minaret to Devil’s Postpile, it’s all downhill with some rocky sections. Highlights include a wonderful, wide, terraced waterfall, and close to the end, a cool canyon area with a stream going through it, and finally, Johnston Lake.

Notes:

Get to the Agnew Meadows trailhead before 7am for self-drive and parking, or take the shuttle.

Equipment: Would poles have helped on the descent to Minaret? I’m not sure. Personally, I prefer to have my hands free. Prophylactically for me, knee braces would have been a good call, but not needed until the Minaret descent. If you’re going over 12 miles, I’d recommend hiking shoes. Much as I love hiking in light trail runners, my feet were beaten up/done at the end of this 17-mile day.

Was it worth it? ABSOLUTELY! I hope you can see why.

Happy Trails!

Third Time’s a Charm: Big Love for Big Pine Lakes Trail via North Fork, John Muir Wilderness, Eastern Sierras, Big Pine, CA

Third Time’s a Charm: Big Love for Big Pine Lakes Trail via North Fork, John Muir Wilderness, Eastern Sierras, Big Pine, CA

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Rats, all the scenery is too “grand” to fit in the featured photo. Please excuse the rough edit.

My route: Up the Big Pine Lakes North Fork Trail (Lakes 1-7 with the spur to Summit Lake), and down via the Black Lake Trail

Length: ~15.5 Miles

Elevation Gain: 3,986 ft

Difficulty: Depends on your fitness level and how far you go; while the elevation gain is gradual, it is significant, constant, and at altitude.

Trail Quality: Excellent, trail runnable! Well-marked and easy to follow!

This trail was a long unrequited love of mine. While I initially explored the area on two occasions decades ago, I never made it to all 1-7 numbered Lakes and Summit Lake and Black Lake until now. I fell in love all over again. It was even more stunning than I remembered.

Take 1

My first ill-fated overnight trip to the Big Pine North Fork Trail resulted in my hiking companion Chip getting altitude sickness and us having to make a hasty retreat. (Of course, we’d done everything you’re not supposed to do – we drove up from sea level to the trailhead at 7,660, charged up the trail 4 miles (gaining ~2k+elevation) to set up the tent near stunning Lake 2 before dark. With no time to eat dinner, we’d munched on fresh rosemary bread on the way up. Once we had the tent up, Chip became violently ill, vomiting multiple times. Meanwhile, his dog Chatz was becoming agitated- hair standing up, growling – this is bear country. I remember worrying about an apple I had in the tent; at the time, I didn’t realize that Chip was creating a bear smorgasbord outside. As Chip became sicker, it became obvious we had to abort our overnighter. It was dire enough that we thought about leaving the tent behind. There were no other hikers or campers around. I wondered how I would manage if I needed to carry Chip down. I worried that Chatz was going to have a run-in with a bear. Luckily, we all made it down the trail safely. As for Chip, predictably, he began to feel slowly but progressively better on the descent and was almost 100% within an hour of driving down from the trailhead. Since then, he has had an aversion to rosemary bread and higher altitudes. Despite being concerned about Chip’s well-being as marched down the trail with our headlamps, I recall being transfixed by the stark, ragged granite peaks glistening in the moonlight, the silence, and stillness. I vowed to return.

Take 2

When I returned a decade or so later, no idea what took me so long, I came with a mountain biking buddy who wanted to charge up the trail to the Palisade Glacier (the largest glacier in the Eastern Sierra). The trail spur to reach the glacier is about a 1/2 mile beyond Third Lake. Given that we prioritized the Palisade Glacier as our day hike destination (19 miles with 4,646 ft of elevation gain) and didn’t get an early start, we barely had time to nod to the 3 spectacular lakes we “ran” by on the way up and down. (If you know me, you know I’m more of an alpine lake person than a glacier person.) Once again, I vowed to return to immerse myself in those lakes’ beauty.

Take 3

Over a decade later (again, I have no idea what took me so long), I returned with my hiking buddy and expert back-country guide, Colin, the most earnest person I know about getting the most out of every hike. And this was no exception. We hit EVERY numbered alpine lake (1-7) plus Summit Lake and Black Lake, with ample time to bliss out at each.

How had I forgotten about the mesmerizing trailside rushing rapids and waterfalls of Big Pine Creek? I’m guessing there must not have been much snowmelt when I went previously.

I’m not going to number the lakes for you. You need to go discover them one by one for yourself. Here’s a sampling:

If you fish, you might get as lucky as the fellow who caught and released this big beauty.

On the Black Lake trail down, we were treated to patches of colorful wildflowers and breathtaking views of the lakes from above.

And there was also time for my yoga pose photobombing and blissful immersion! I vow to return before another decade passes!

And so the sun must set on even the most beloved adventure so another one can begin.

Happy Trails!

Tell me, what trails have you fallen in love with, and do you long to return to?

Crystal Lake Trail: Gateway to a Multitude of Alpine Lakes and Ponds, Kamas, UT

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If you like alpine lakes and friendly trails, you’ll have plenty to choose from, starting at the Crystal Lake Trail and hiking in virtually any direction. Forget peak bagging for the day and enjoy some lake hopping instead. This area wins my record for most lakes and ponds in the least mileage. The more miles you cover, the more lakes and ponds you’ll see in this dazzling area of the Western Unitas. I combined 2 loops going in opposite directions and visited a mind-blowing 32 lakes and ponds in 15 miles—yep, that’s a whopping 2 sparkling lakes per mile. (But whose counting? LOL, the Garmin, thank goodness, as I lost track!) Despite the parking lots being jam-packed, surprisingly enough, the trails weren’t overrun. (Island Lake had the most people—big family groups.) Overall, I saw more lakes and ponds than people—now that’s a perfect scenario.

Distance: Create your own lake-hopping adventure.

Difficulty: Easy to moderate+, depending on your fitness level and altitude acclimation

Altitude: All hikes in the 10k ft range

Getting there: Milepost 25.5 off of the Mirror Lake Highway. (This highway is closed from late October through Memorial Day.)

Notes: Parking and overflow lots fill fast in peak season, especially on the weekends. There are several campsites in the area, but most require reservations. Boondocking and backpacking are options.

Magnificent Mount Timpanogos in July Never Disappoints: Wildflowers, Waterfalls, Wildlife, and Wild Views-Oh My! (Via Timpooneke, Trail), UT

Magnificent Mount Timpanogos in July Never Disappoints: Wildflowers, Waterfalls, Wildlife, and Wild Views-Oh My! (Via Timpooneke, Trail), UT

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Distance: ~13 Miles RT

Elevation Gain: 4,856 ft

Difficulty: Moderate to hard, depending on your fitness level and acclimation to altitude

My second splendid summit of Mount Timpanogos (11,753 ft) was via the Timpooneke Trailhead. (And yep, I’m sticking with the same title. Mount Timpanogos simply has ALL the ingredients for a great hike. I’ve seen Mt. Timpanogos from both sides now (Aspen Grove Trailhead and Timpooneke), and both routes are gorgeous. Mount Timpanogos still ranks as the best US hike I’ve done.

Trail Notes: Keep your eyes open; at Mile 1, the trail takes a sharp right turn. (I kept going straight on what appeared to be a wide, well-traveled trail that stopped short across a stream. I ended up scaling a waterfall avalanche chute before it dawned on me that I was on another one of my “off trail explorations”—yep, I know, lol. I later learned I wasn’t the only one and suggested to the ranger that a sign might be advisable.)

At the 3-mile mark, a “snow bridge” had collapsed across the middle of a waterfall, requiring careful traversing of the slanted, slippery snow field. The picture below may not look too treacherous, but there is a waterfall crevasse directly under the snow. One slip could be a big, potentially final slip if you know what I mean.

Crampons would help, but given the onslaught of the heat wave we’ve been having, this section won’t be an obstacle for long. Other than that, the trail is well-marked until you reach the Emerald Lake juncture. The Summit Trail (054) is the unmarked (I’m not sure why) trail to the right.

Cons: This route seems busier/more crowded. (I was there on a weekend. I’m sure it’s better on a weekday.) You may want to challenge yourself with the extra 1k of elevation that the Aspen Grove route delivers.)

Pros: It’s easier—there is 1,000 feet less elevation gain, and a couple of miles shorter. Best of all, you completely bypass the tortuous snow and talus field that takes forever to painstakingly cross on the Aspen Grove route. (See picture below.) Footing is easy the entire way on the Timpooneke route perhaps that’s why it’s so popular with trail runners.

On the way up, you’ll go through what I’ll call “Moose Meadow,” where I saw the moose below with her calf.

You get a great “bowl” view of Timp’s peak above and surrounding peaks from the wildflower-filled meadow basin.

After which, the trail begins to climb in earnest to the Timp Saddle, where you’ll enjoy sweeping views of Utah Valley and the summit ahead. If you’re lucky, you may see grazing, napping, or salt-licking mountain goats along the way. Give the mountain goats space and respect. I(I have a great magnifier on my camera.) (While the goats look docile, they have been known to kill loose dogs that harass them (3 loose dogs were killed by goats last year) and gore people who get too close.)

I saw several off-leash dogs—doesn’t seem prudent! I’m guessing the moose wouldn’t take kindly to the loose dogs, either.

To reach the summit, mild scrambling is required. The section is short and nontechnical, but it is not for the faint of heart or those scared of heights. The panoramic views are tremendous, but it was a bit hazy when I summited—perhaps due to the wildfires in the surrounding areas.

Did I mention waterfalls? Lots!

Notes: On weekends, you need to reserve a parking spot: Timpooneke Parking Reservations

Caution: This hike involves significant elevation gain and hiking at elevation. Be aware of the signs of altitude sickness. It can sneak up on you even if you’ve never had it before. It happened to me recently on Wheeler Peak. On the way down Timpanogos, a teenage girl was in a fetal position by the trail, holding her head. Her family had called for rescue. Hopefully, she’s okay.

Happy and Safe Trails!

Grand Canyon: South Kaibab Descent to Phantom Ranch With Bright Angel Ascent

Grand Canyon: South Kaibab Descent to Phantom Ranch With Bright Angel Ascent

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Hike Report: Grand Views Spoilt by Noisy Crowds

Distance: ~16-17+ Miles (17.7 by my Garmin)

Elevation Loss & Gain: 4,700

Difficulty: Strenuous/hard due to distance, elevation change, sun exposure, heat

Grand views, but hiking the Grand Canyon is a bit of a circus. There are so many (way too many) people on the trails. It really detracts from the experience. (I’ll state the unpopular opinion that they should permit this hike, N.Rim, and Rim-to-Rim.)

I’ve been hiking (lengthy elevation gain hikes) and working out regularly (in anticipation of a possible Rim-to-Rim hike next month). This loop was an excellent training challenge. I have knee “issues”, so I wore knee braces. Fortunately, my knees were fine all the way down to Phantom Ranch (7.5 miles).

My hiking buddy and I arrived at Phantom Ranch after noon. We enjoyed two full 16-ounce glasses of refreshing lemonade (a must-do— $6 with a free refill!) I’d heard a lot about how cool Phantom Ranch is. It is a lovely, natural oasis with shady, gurgling Bright Angel Creek as backdrop and the comforts of campsites, rustic cabins, a restaurant, and a tiny store. Perhaps it’s charming when no one is around, but its charm was completely lost when I was there on an overrun weekend. The line for water refill there was at least 30 people long. I didn’t take any pictures at the ranch itself because I was so overwhelmed by the crowds

After downing 32 ounces of lemonade and a brief munchie break, we started climbing the switchbacks of Devil’s Corkscrew. By this time, the temperature was in the 90s. During the 3.5-mile climb up (1,300 ft), the completely exposed switchbacks, I slowed down, and my heart rate soared 20 points. By this point, my drinking water was the same temperature as my mouth. I couldn’t discern if I was drinking or if my Camelback Tube was twisted. Note, I was wearing a hat and a white shirt to deflect the sun’s rays. I don’t want to imagine what this section would feel like in triple-digit heat, which is common in the summer. I hadn’t acclimated to desert heat hiking yet because it was still Spring.

The second I came into the shade approaching Havasupai Gardens (water was available), my heart rate dropped 10 points. It returned to its active normal after I immersed my feet and my hat in the shallow stream. That immersion and the dragonfly below were the highlights here. We would have taken a longer break to wait for shadows to form on the steep Bright Angel Trail (4.5 miles, 3k elevation gain), but the area was completely overrun by noisy crowds. No pictures other than the dragonfly here, as I was too bummed out by the crowds. For me, it was the antithesis of a pleasant experience in nature.

We left in a hurry, eager to put the crowds behind me. I felt stronger on the climb out than when I hiked North Kaibab to Manzanita Springs out and back. My knees started complaining about a mile and a half from the top—poles might have helped.

After enjoying a celebratory ice cream at the top, my friend and I decided to “walk” to the parking lot, adding another 2.5 miles. That was the straw that broke the camel’s back for me. At about the 2-mile mark, both of my legs viciously cramped and seized, throwing me to the ground and rendering me helpless for at least 5-minutes, and hobbled for the remaining half-mile and day. If that had happened on the way up, I would have been incapacitated and might have required assistance. Scary. Why did it happen? Hard to say, but likely due to dehydration and lack of electrolytes. I had trouble drinking when I was overheated because my water was hot. next time, if there is one, I will bring metal containers to keep the water/electrolyte liquid cool.

Notes: Don’t underestimate the challenges of hiking in the Grand Canyon North or South, or Rim-to-Rim, especially in the summer. Even without extreme heat to factor in, hiking here is a serious undertaking. Don’t overestimate your abilities. Get as much elevation and heat training in as you can. Know your limits, hike with a buddy, and be prepared with adequate water, water purifier, electrolytes, and food. I wore trail running shoes with good tread. I prefer lighter footwear to heavy hiking boots and like having my hands free. The trails are mostly well-groomed. I did not use poles, but I might take them if I do Rim to Rim. Since I don’t do well drinking warm water, I’ll take on the extra weight of metal containers for cooler water next time.

“END” Notes

About a dozen people die in the Grand Canyon every year. The first cause of death is airplane and helicopter crashes (this comes in as first as it reflects the 128 deaths from the pre-FAA 1956 commercial airline collision). The second common causes are falls, jumps from, or driving off cliffs/ledges, and the third most common cause is due to the Grand Canyon’s extreme environmental hazards, including intense heat (temps can reach 120 degrees) dehydration/overhydration, cardiac arrest, flash floods, and lightning strikes.

Happy Trails & Safe Hiking!