Cuba Cycling Adventure Postcard Series: Off-the-beaten-path, pedaling to the rhythm of Cuba’s heartbeat

A yellow-breasted bird shines bright against emerald rainforest leaves, returning my gaze from the hand-painted coffee cup I bought from an artist in Cuba. As I sip my coffee, memories of my cycling adventure spin in my mind’s eye, a dazzling kaleidoscope of indelible impressions.

I was completely unplugged from the outside world for 7 days (my choice), which allowed me to immerse myself completely in every waking moment as we cycled off the beaten path and pedaled to the rhythm of Cuba’s heartbeat.

The sights—stone fortresses, historical monuments and statues, charming town squares, gorgeous architecture, and the art—everywhere— paintings, sculptures, street tiles, street art. The vibrant colors wrapped in the Caribbean island’s tremendous natural beauty— picturesque bays, verdant mountain ranges with hidden tropical waterfalls and cenotes, and sugar white sand beaches enticing you into the sparkling turquoise sea.

The sounds—the medley of sax, bass, drums, and guitar in the parks, at cafes, restaurants, and bars, the constant clip-clop of horses’ hooves, the rev of mopeds, the persistent punctuation of horns like exuberant exclamation marks to the improvised salsa music. And the contrasting silence of the countryside and the mountains, broken only by a bird call, the whisper of the wind through the trees, the rush of a waterfall, the gurgle of a stream.

The flavors—From sweet to savory and everywhere in between– fresh fruits and juices daily (mini-bananas, pineapple, guava), refreshing post-ride libations like Mojitos and Caipirinhas, and creamy Pina Coladas, delicious entrees like freshly grilled lobsters (my fav), fresh fish, and traditional, hearty dishes like Rope Vieja, beans and rice, pork in very variety (rips, chops, and morsels), crispy snacks of garlic and oil plantains. I know! Are you salivating yet?

The places: Old Havana, the seaside resort town of Varadero, Matanzas known as the “Venice of Cuba,” Santa Clara, home of the Che Guevara Museum and Memorial, the “colonial jewel” of Trinidad, Cienfuegos “The Pearl of the South,” and the infamous Bay of Pigs.

The people: A great group of people from our knowledgeable and personable Cuban Adventure’s guide Rayner, Alejandro our attentive bike mechanic and speedy rescue cyclist (story later-maybe), and “Manbey,” our bus driver who might be better nicknamed MacGyver to the 2 well-traveled couples from Canada (Mike and Jan, Kirk and Heather), my smart and fun roommate Vanessa from Denver, our casa hosts, and those we encountered along our journey, including 2 crazy old German gents who were solo cycling the entire island and kept popping up much to our surprise (we biked and bussed– they were cycling 100%).

The insights—into the history, politics, culture, and spirit and some of the mindsets of the Cuban people.

Hands down, this was one of the best adventure travel trips I’ve taken for many reasons. Hopefully, some of those reasons are already apparent. It was a spontaneous decision (like most of mine) made just 2-weeks before departure—everything lined up perfectly. With low to no expectations, the entire experience blew me away—outstanding, fantastic, fabulous!  

In the following days/weeks, I’ll share some highlights and attempt to capture the experience here in this postcard series. The best part is that I get to relive it allas I go.

Arrival

Walking through Jose Marti Airport’s exit doors into the warm tropical night was like arriving through a time portal into the past. From the backseat of the taxi, I was mesmerized by the blur of classic cars and horse-drawn carriages—racing side-by-side towards Old Havana. (Since the Cuban revolution (1953-1959), when Batista was driven out and Fidel Castro took power, there has been a ban on cars and other imports from America. Not to mention the difficulty of getting gas imports.) Here are a few scenes from my first night in Havana. I know the pictures are a bit blurry, and so was I after a long day of travels. I promise they’ll get better.

It was lights out after a quick nightcap and bite in Old Havana with my new roommate, Vanessa.

Throughout this postcard series, I’ll sprinkle in miscellaneous history, interesting facts, and some sobering statistics.

Jose Marti is the Cuban poet and philosopher who led the fight against the Spanish for Cuba’s Independence

~60,000 classic cars in Cuba (~50% from the 1950’s, ~25% from the 1940’s, ~25% from the 1930’s)

Only ~2% of Cubans own cars

Average monthly income range for 55% of the population is $50-$234, $600-$2,808 annually.

(https://www.statista.com/statistics/1376640/average-income-households-cuba/)

51% of Cubans report not having enough $ (https://www.statista.com/statistics/1376640/average-income-households-cuba/)

Free healthcare and education

I highly recommend putting Cuba on your “to-do” list whether you “do it” on a bike or otherwise. Here’s a direct link:  Cuba Travel Services | Cuban Adventures (cubagrouptour.com) and a 10% off code to use: YUMAFRIENDS.

Happy Adventure Travels!

Veyo Shoal Creek Road, Surely Scenic Gravel Ride Sampler

Practically in my backyard and I just discovered it today thanks to Deb of PlanetUltra. This is part of the course for the PlanetUltra Volcano Ride (120k). Panoramic views, nice road quality, and some solid climbs take you from the back of Gunlock out to the Enterprise Reservoir. I turned around ~16 miles in due to self-inflicted cleat failure and sore knees from Thursday’s Epic ride up Smith Mesa (post to come). If you go all the way to the reservoir, it’s ~20+ miles each direction and 3-5k elevation.

Veyo Loop—Epic, Scenic Road Biking in the St. George Area

Distance: ~45 Miles

Elevation gain: ~2,600 ft of climbing (the climb up Snow Canyon alone is 4 miles, 4% grade, and 1,450 ft elevation gain). Clockwise or counter clockwise – either climb Snow Canyon or “The Wall”

Highlights: Gunlock Reservoir, Snow Canyon State Park, Veyo Pie shop, cinder cones, horses, cows, goats, deer, hawks, quail, road runners, and not a single stoplight (though I once had to slow to let some free range cattle cross)

This incredibly scenic, well-marked route has the distinction of being the 1st official designated cycling route in Washington County, UT, it takes you through the towns of Diamond Valley, Dammeron Valley, Veyo, Gunlock, and Ivins. The Vejo Pie Shop is a an opportunity to refuel and indulge in a piece of their famed pies or pastries. The loop is a popular training route for triathletes for the Ironman 70.3 St. George and it was part of the full Ironman St. George course and the recent “Tour de St. George” century ride. I’m so fortunate to have this spectacular ride as my local “go to” ride. If you’re a road biker, this is a must-do if you’re in the area.

Notes: Snow Canyon State Park has an entry fee of $10 for locals/ $15 for out-of-towners; you can also bypass the park and climb or descend the 18 highway instead. There’s a bike path that runs parallel to the 18 northbound; the hills are quite a bit steeper than the highway (knee grinders). For the most part, there’s ample room on the highway, but there are 18-wheelers and trucks with trailers whizzing by so it’s not for the faint of heart…Also, be forewarned there’s a fair amount of debris on the roadsides – glass, steel radial, etc…Be prepared, bring your tough tires and a couple of tubes, Co2s, a hand pump, and plenty of water, especially in the summer. Enjoy the ride!

Exploring the St. George Area on 2 Wheels

For those of you who might be wondering, here’s a sample of what biking (road biking and mountain biking) looks like around St. George, Utah. As you can see, the views for much of this 60-mile ride were splendid, quintessential Utah—Virgin River, canyons, red rock, and snow-capped mountains. Road quality varied. (Utah drivers were not quite as courteous as I’d hoped. Lots of trucks sped by us without moving to the left or braking.)

Scenic views road biking Utah
Roadside Red Rock off the 7
Virgin River
Virgin River Views From River Rock Roasting Company
virgin river views la verkin
Virgin River Views From River Rock Roasting Company
L rocky roasters
River Rock Roasting Company: Definitely the Best Coffee / Gastropub and Views Around!

Quail Lake 3Quail lake 2

L Quail Lake

Not bad, eh?

Toquerville /La Verkin Road Bike Loop ~60 Miles, ~2500 feet  of climbing

A friend of mine, now a St. George local, guided us on this 60-mile road bike sampler with ~2500 feet of climbing on surrounding highways and byways. We took the lovely, low traffic 7 to Sand Hollow Road (rough surface) by Sand Hollow Reservoir (Half-Ironman site) across to State Street / 9. (The 9 is a main thoroughfare with heavy, fast traffic -not so nice. Maybe save this one for Sunday mornings when most of the locals are at church.)

At the halfway point, we enjoyed some refreshments and superb views at the super scenic, ever popular River Rock Roasting, which is perched on a cliff overlooking Virgin River in La Verkin. If you’re in the area, River Rock Roasting is a must stop and is definitely my top pick for coffee, food, brews and views. It’s slammed on Sundays (apparently everyone who is not in church goes here) so pick a weekday if possible.

Our route back on State Street/9 was topped off with a stop at dazzling Quail Creek State Park and Reservoir. And yes, you can swim in it. No, I didn’t this time, but will next! It’s 120 feet deep in places and stocked with rainbow trout, bullhead catfish, crappie, largemouth bass. There’s boating, kayaking, SUPs, hiking, biking and camping here.

The Veyo Loop is another amazingly scenic route through the Gunlock and Snow Canyon area—one of the top ten routes in Utah -minimal traffic and maximum views!

Desert Canyons Mountain Bike Trails: Pushing Tin and Secret Sauce ~8 miles

Our mountain bike sampler was limited as it had recently rained, but we’ve heard there’s tons of epic trails around here. The driest trail option was the newly developed Desert Canyons Trail System. We cruised around two of the trails, Pushing Tin and Secret Sauce, both pleasant easy to moderate with views from the top of the mesa out to the horizon. Unfortunately, these views are slated to be filled in by a Master Community in the near future. (The developer’s concession / gift was this mountain bike trail system.) We were lucky to have it to ourselves with no building encroachment yet.

MTB yellow wildflowers
Wildflowers and Mesa Top Views
desert canyon mtb cutout
Metal Art
Kara MTB jump
Kara Highlighting Crazy Technical Opportunities
L MTB desert canyon
Open Views for Now…

Directions: From St. George, take the I-15 S to Desert Canyon s exit and take a left under the overpass

We were told that there’s plenty of great mountain biking in and near St. George, but it wasn’t in the cards for this trip. We did make it to Moab for an epic mountain bike ride – stay tuned for that post.

As far as these 2 rides go, I’ll give them 2 thumbs up.

 

For views that rock you like a hurricane, visit Olympic National Park

Hurricane Ridge in Olympic National Park is so named because a prospector back in 1897 stood up there on a very windy day (100 mile an hour winds) and declared that it must be a hurricane. (It wasn’t, but the name stuck.) I lucked out with lovely weather the day I visited.

Hurricane Ridge is about 17 miles from Port Angeles and it’s a direct route to fun times. If you’re in the vicinity, it’s a must do.Whether you are just taking in the fantastic views, hiking, snowshoeing, skiing, snowboarding, or perhaps biking up. Yes, I said “biking up”. And yes, it’s a thing, if you’re into that kind of thing that is. With a challenging 5,242 ft ascent over 17 miles, the ride is known as one of Washington’s toughest and most scenic bike routes and what many say is one of the top cycling climbs in the U.S.. The climb averages a 5.3% grade with the steepest ½ mile at a 9.4% grade. Any takers?

It does sound intriguing though doesn’t it? I’d like to give it a go one day if my knees allow. It’s the downhill that really gives me the heebie-jeebies… I’d feel more secure on a mountain bile than road bike.  A car shuttle might be an option…

In any case, whatever your activity pleasure, you’ll find the Olympic National Park a perfect playground. Get more scoop at Visitor Center at mile one and pay to play when you reach the park’s toll booth at mile 6.

ONP fees

I pulled off at the first opportunity for a hike and did a pleasant out and back on the Switchback Trail. As the sign indicates, there are a few options available to string together longer hikes.

sign on hurricain ridgeswitchback trail scoop

switchback trailswitchback trail looking backL on the switchback trail

hurricaine road and beyond

I’m keeping my escapades short so I can cover more ground on my “PNW adventure sampler” tour. After driving up to the ridge to enjoy the panoramic views, I headed back down to plot my next excursion.

Evidence of “The Inconvenient Truth” – pictures are worth a thousand words…

L on Hurricaine ridge