Ruby Mountains, a Sparkling Crowned Jewel in the Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest, NV

The Eastern Sierras Ruby Mountain range (often compared to the Alps) was named for the gems found there during the gold rush. The name is a misnomer, though, as the dark red gems discovered in these mountains were garnets, not rubies.

While no gold was ever found in the Ruby Mountains, treasures abound—two dozen dazzling alpine lakes and streams lively with Rainbow, Brook, and Lahontan Cutthroat Trout, meadows, and healthy forests. This rich wilderness area is home to one of the largest mule deer herds in Nevada and populations of mountain goats, bighorn sheep, and Himalayan Snowcock. (Oddly, I didn’t see any of them on my overnight backpack.)

The Ruby Mountains’ craggy, glacier-carved peaks rise nearly 5,000 feet above the valley below and are capped by Ruby Dome at 11,387 feet. The elevation on the trails ranges from 7,ooo ft to 11k. Trail length varies from a couple of miles to multi-day thru-hikes—choose your adventure. The main trails are well-marked and maintained, easy to follow, and easy on the feet. Explore for an afternoon or overnight backpack, as I did. If you’re like me, you’ll be dazzled by the glimmering alpine lakes and the sparkling night sky.

I went on an overnight backpacking trip here in September 2023. Yes, I’m way behind in my posts (understatement). I explored half a dozen lakes, including Liberty Lake, Lamoile Lake, Farvre Lake, and Castle Lake. I shall return and will provide more details then. Until then, click here for more info about the Rubies from “Travel Nevada.”

By now, you know that I have a thing for alpine lakes. While I could have lingered for days at any of the gems I visited, I did venture up above the treeline to take in the grand views as well. As you can see, it’s a completely ifferent vibe at a higher elevation – there are ten peaks over 10k feet here, and the highest is Ruby Dome at 11,387 feet

Night skies are wonderful here (Saw a rocket launch and a huge meteor!) And even on a weekend, solitude abounds!

Note of caution: Elko is 21 miles away from the Ruby’s; you’d think a place so close to this spectacular wilderness area would take pride in its gateway status. Sadly, Elko has one of the highest crime rates in America compared to communities of all sizes. (Elko’s population is only 20K!) The chance of becoming a victim of violent or property crime is 1 in 30. YIKES! Making it your adventure base camp, especially if you are a woman traveling solo, is ill-advised. Bring a hiking buddy and head for the mountains. (Common sense—don’t leave any valuables in the car.

Elko history: Elko was settled in 1869 with the development of the Transcontinental Railroad and became a base for gold and silver mining and livestock ranching. Unfortunately, it seems that it’s been downhill since then. There are 6 legal brothels in this small town of 20k, and the seedy element they attract is

Getting there:

From Elko, follow State Route 227 southeast toward the tiny town of Lamoille. Just before entering Lamoille town limits, turn right on the paved 12-mile Lamoille Canyon Scenic Byway and follow it to the parking area at its terminus.

Happy Trails!

(Here I am overloaded with my old heavyweight gear (3 lb surf backpack, 3.5 lb sleeping bag, 7.5 lb tent, 4 liters/8 lbs of water, etc., etc.). My last overnight backpack was years ago on Mt. Whitney. I guess my knees and back could still handle a heavy, poorly distributed load then. This time, the struggle was real. In the picture here, who knows if I’m grimacing or smiling in relief that most of the climbing was done. Since then I have opted for ultralight camping gear, which cuts my load by more than half. Stay tuned for an upcoming gear post.

Magnificent Mount Timpanogos in July Never Disappoints: Wildflowers, Waterfalls, Wildlife, and Wild Views-Oh My! (Via Timpooneke, Trail), UT

Distance: ~13 Miles RT

Elevation Gain: 4,856 ft

Difficulty: Moderate to hard, depending on your fitness level and acclimation to altitude

My second splendid summit of Mount Timpanogos (11,753 ft) was via the Timpooneke Trailhead. (And yep, I’m sticking with the same title. Mount Timpanogos simply has ALL the ingredients for a great hike. I’ve seen Mt. Timpanogos from both sides now (Aspen Grove Trailhead and Timpooneke), and both routes are gorgeous. Mount Timpanogos still ranks as the best US hike I’ve done.

Trail Notes: Keep your eyes open; at Mile 1, the trail takes a sharp right turn. (I kept going straight on what appeared to be a wide, well-traveled trail that stopped short across a stream. I ended up scaling a waterfall avalanche chute before it dawned on me that I was on another one of my “off trail explorations”—yep, I know, lol. I later learned I wasn’t the only one and suggested to the ranger that a sign might be advisable.)

At the 3-mile mark, a “snow bridge” had collapsed across the middle of a waterfall, requiring careful traversing of the slanted, slippery snow field. The picture below may not look too treacherous, but there is a waterfall crevasse directly under the snow. One slip could be a big, potentially final slip if you know what I mean.

Crampons would help, but given the onslaught of the heat wave we’ve been having, this section won’t be an obstacle for long. Other than that, the trail is well-marked until you reach the Emerald Lake juncture. The Summit Trail (054) is the unmarked (I’m not sure why) trail to the right.

Cons: This route seems busier/more crowded. (I was there on a weekend. I’m sure it’s better on a weekday.) You may want to challenge yourself with the extra 1k of elevation that the Aspen Grove route delivers.)

Pros: It’s easier—there is 1,000 feet less elevation gain, and a couple of miles shorter. Best of all, you completely bypass the tortuous snow and talus field that takes forever to painstakingly cross on the Aspen Grove route. (See picture below.) Footing is easy the entire way on the Timpooneke route perhaps that’s why it’s so popular with trail runners.

On the way up, you’ll go through what I’ll call “Moose Meadow,” where I saw the moose below with her calf.

You get a great “bowl” view of Timp’s peak above and surrounding peaks from the wildflower-filled meadow basin.

After which, the trail begins to climb in earnest to the Timp Saddle, where you’ll enjoy sweeping views of Utah Valley and the summit ahead. If you’re lucky, you may see grazing, napping, or salt-licking mountain goats along the way. Give the mountain goats space and respect. I(I have a great magnifier on my camera.) (While the goats look docile, they have been known to kill loose dogs that harass them (3 loose dogs were killed by goats last year) and gore people who get too close.)

I saw several off-leash dogs—doesn’t seem prudent! I’m guessing the moose wouldn’t take kindly to the loose dogs, either.

To reach the summit, mild scrambling is required. The section is short and nontechnical, but it is not for the faint of heart or those scared of heights. The panoramic views are tremendous, but it was a bit hazy when I summited—perhaps due to the wildfires in the surrounding areas.

Did I mention waterfalls? Lots!

Notes: On weekends, you need to reserve a parking spot: Timpooneke Parking Reservations

Caution: This hike involves significant elevation gain and hiking at elevation. Be aware of the signs of altitude sickness. It can sneak up on you even if you’ve never had it before. It happened to me recently on Wheeler Peak. On the way down Timpanogos, a teenage girl was in a fetal position by the trail, holding her head. Her family had called for rescue. Hopefully, she’s okay.

Happy and Safe Trails!

Climbing Corkscrew Peak, Death Valley National Park, CA

Distance: ~8 miles

Elevation gain: ~3,360 ft

Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous, depending upon your fitness level (3k ft climb in ~2 miles). Class 2.

Corkscrew Peak (5,804 ft) is the imposing sentinel in the Grapevine Mountains of northern Death Valley National Park. It looks intimidating from afar and upon the approach, but the trail isn’t bad, and it’s a great workout. Definitely one of the most unique peaks I’ve seen.

Speaking of trails, the first portion requires some route finding. Head West from the Corkscrew Peak sign and follow the wide wash towards the peak. The route is cairned, gentle, and gradual, leading you to a narrow canyon area at about the 2-mile mark. Here, you’ll scramble up and out of the wash on the left. You’ll climb the spiraling rocky trail for the next 2 miles. Watch your footing, as there are many spots of loose gravel. All told you’ll be climbing 3,360 feet to the top—most of it packed into a somewhat intense 2 miles.

Right before you reach the top, there’s a cool natural window, a nice spot to return to enjoy a snack, and the view before the steep, slippery descent.

From the top, you’ll enjoy splendid views of Death Valley and surrounding peaks, including Langley, Whitney, and Telescope. You can also document your peak bag in the summit record, which is in a metal container wedged between some rocks at the top.

Getting there:

From the Visitors Center at Furnace Creek, drive ~ 11 miles N on State Highway 190 to the signed, paved Daylight Pass Cutoff Road toward Beatty, NV. Turn right and follow this road 10 miles to a signed road fork at Hell’s Gate. Go right onto Daylight Pass Road and drive 0.9 miles. Park on the dirt shoulder.

Notes: The initial section of the trail is a wide wash north of the road. The trail is slippery in sections with loose gravel “marbles; choose hiking or trail running shoes with the best traction. Some recommend poles for the way down. Personally, I do better on slippery downhill if my hands are free. It’s possible to trail run up, but be cautious on the way down.

Happy Trails!

Spur Cross Ranch Conservation Area, Cave Creek, AZ

Distance: You choose ~2 miles to 19.7 miles

Difficulty: Easy to moderate, varies depending on the trail(s) chosen, length, and your fitness level

If you’re in the Scottsdale area and have time for a field trip, I highly recommend an excursion to Cave Creek. Hike the Spur Cross Ranch Conservation Area and enjoy the Saguaro “forest”, refreshing shaded creek-side trail, and if you keep your eyes open, you may get lucky and spot some petroglyphs too.

Choose your own adventure from 16 hiking and equestrian trails in this 2,154-acre area. My friend and I combined a couple of trails (Spur Crossing, Tortuga, and Dragonfly) for ~8 miles with ~1k of climbing. The terrain is mostly run-friendly.

After your adventure, head to town to quench your thirst, refuel, and shop in this blended authentic/tourist trap Western town that was settled in 1870.

Getting there: 29 miles from Scottsdale, via AZ-101 Loop N and N Scottsdale Rd44000 N Spur Cross Rd, Cave Creek, AZ 85331

Notes: Spur Cross Ranch Conservation Area $3 per person fee. Picnic tables and port-a-potties are available at the trailhead parking area.

We all scream for ice cream at the City Creamery

I had the best ice cream of my life at The City Creamery, home of handmade, small-batch ice cream in 16 favorites varieties and exotic seasonal flavors. (I’m not that much of an ice cream monger, but oh, my—delicious, chocolate infused with orange!) Also, their scoop portions are HUGE. However, I did manage to eat it all.

Happy trails!

Cheers from Stumbalina’s Cantina!

Dazzling Panoramic Scenery: Dante’s View to Mt. Perry Hike plus Badwater Basin Bonus!

Distance: ~8 Miles

Elevation Gain: ~2,346ft

Difficulty: Strenuous to moderate, depending on your fitness level. Trail runnable until you reach the top scree and talus portion.

The unofficial trail begins at the north end of the Dantes View parking lot. The unmarked single-track rim trail climbs and descends different ridges eventually leading to the peak of Mt. Perry (5,378 ft). The vast views in every direction are enchanting—across the valley to snow-capped Telescope Peak and down to the mesmerizing turquoise, emerald waters of Badwater Basin below.

Towards the peak, the loose scree and talus field get gnarly and may require a “4 on the floor”(hands and feet) approach. There’s no shame in stopping short if the rugged terrain becomes too disagreeable—the view is spectacular all along the way and at any of 3 false summits.

If you don’t have time to hike, Dante’s View is worth the drive up, especially at sunrise or sunset.

A once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see Lake Manly/ Badwater Basin with water!

Whether you drive by it or up to Dante’s for the bird’s eye view, you must visit Badwater Basin, especially now! The lowest point in North America and the United States, Badwater Basin, an expansive salt flat, is the remnant of a vast and deep (600 ft deep) ancient lake that existed tens of thousands of years ago. During the past six months, thanks to the recent record-setting “atmospheric rivers,” the ancient  “lake” has resurfaced into a 6-mile by 3-mile shallow (1 ft deep) “lake”. With warmer temperatures around the corner, the lake will evaporate before long, leaving only the vast, barren salt flat. For those lucky enough to see Lake Manly with water, that ephemeral glimmering experience will remain imprinted like a mirage flickering in our memories (and captured in our photos).

Happy Trails!

Couldn’t resist the once-in-a-lifetime yogi pose reflection photoshoot at Badwater!

Getting there: Dante’s View is a ~45-minute drive from Furnace Creek. Take the main Highway 190 route SE for 11 miles. Pass Zabriskie’s Point and turn right on Dante’s View Road (13 miles). Badwater Basin is a 17-mile drive from Furnace Creek via the 190, turn right on Badwater Basin Road.

Hike smart: Dante’s View to Mt. Perry is completely exposed. Summer hiking after 10AM is not recommended.