Just when I thought the scenery along Mirror Lake Highway couldn’t get better, I saw the sign for Provo River Falls and turned off (<15 minutes east of Kamas). This enchanting roadside waterfall has three tiers (upper, mid, and lower), lovely terraces, and multiple cascades. It’s a must-stop if you’re driving Highway 150. There’s a short paved path alongside the 3 waterfalls. The water temperature ranges from 35 to 55 degrees so the mist from the waterfall is wonderfully refreshing, especially on a hot day.
Via ferrata translates to “iron way”. A via ferrata is a route along a mountain or cliff face consisting of steel safety cables alongside thin steel rungs that you climb like a ladder. Simpler than rock climbing and canyoneering, it makes it possible for people to traverse cliffs and mountains that would otherwise be inaccessible. You wear a harness with 2 clips that you hook and unhook to the cable (one at a time) as you go.
Via ferratas can be traced back to the mid-19th century (presumably when they used iron to construct them instead of steel). During the First World War, the Italian Army used them to get troops through otherwise untraversable portions of the Alps. Via ferratas have since become popular as a safer, simpler option to rock climbing that still affords adventure seekers a thrill and adrenaline rush. (Especially if you’re scared of heights like me.)
My boyfriend, Bernie, invited me to join him on this local via ferrata adventure. I hesitated for a second as videos of the dizzying and daunting via ferratas of Europe played in my head. But the appeal of Zion backcountry’s rarely seen, dramatic vistas “pushed me over the edge,” so to speak. Not to mention, I enjoy trying new things, getting out of my comfort zone, and challenging myself in new ways.
As it turns out, the Above Zion via Ferrata is quite tame. They’ve designed the course to be accessible for anyone “ages 8 to 80”. They equip you with the harnesses, clips, and helmets and a guide.Theoretically, if you can climb a ladder, you can handle it as long as your fear of heights doesn’t paralyze you. Views into this remote back canyon on the outskirts of Zion are splendid. The course is short, with 2 “exciting” sections and more trail walking than via Ferrata for a total of 2 miles roundtrip. A group ahead kept us waiting for them to finish at various junctures. The total moving time my Garmin recorded was 1 hour and 10 minutes. They describe it as a 4-hour adventure. (More like 2 hours at best, unless there are people in your group who really take it slow or freeze.) Sure, you can spend more time enjoying the views at the major lookout spots (as long as a group isn’t coming up behind you). There was a lovely waterfall in the distance, but we never got close enough for a good picture. I was hoping we’d go under it.
I’m sure good guides are hard to find, but… Ours was 20 minutes late and had a propensity to talk about himself. He missed one of the via ferrata sections and didn’t take us back to do it. At the end, he “slow walked” us on the trail and then forgot the combination to the gate while we waited in the side-by-side to get back to the starting point. (Actually, I got out and hiked up and was nearly there by the time they came by.) While he was nice enough to take pictures of us on his phone, he forget to send them.
Yep, that all happened. To be fair, it was the guide’s second day. Guess they are still working out the “kinks”. Cost was $130 per person to join a group. (We got lucky with a private experience.) Not the smoothest run operation, but it made for a fun morning, and a good introduction to via ferrata.
Kolob Canyon road views on the way are always nice too.
While I’m not one for “attractions” per se, how could I say “No” when my boyfriend, Bernie, invited me to join him for a day at Discovery Cove? It’s been voted the Best Marine Mammal Park, the Best Theme Park in Orlando, and the Most Romantic Thing to Do in Orlando. It’s all that and more. The experience exceeded my expectations across the board.
We entered the park through the grand entry pavilion with its high beams, straw-thatched ceiling, and magnificent floating dolphin sculpture.
The moment we stepped out to begin our all-inclusive experience, we were transported into a lush tropical wonderland with magnificent colorful flora, waterfalls, streams, and lagoons. Apologies, I didn’t take many pictures of the grounds because I was in experience mode (versus documentation mode).
The Grand Reef
At the Grand Reef, we immersed ourselves in a colorful kaleidoscope of ~6,000 tropical fish, ~50 stingrays (barbs removed), 3 giant rays, and reef sharks (those behind glass). While I’m a PADI-certified diver, this is the most sea life I’ve ever seen up close and personal. If you prefer not to swim or snorkel, the water is clear enough to see while wading.
Explorer’s Aviary and the Freshwater Oasis
Next, we strolled Explorer’s Aviary, where exotic birds flit and call through the lush canopy of trees and plants. For a closer look or photo op, you can lure them closer (even onto your arms) with tiny bowls of their favorite treats.
If you’re up for a cruise on a noodle floatie or a swim, there’s a “Freshwater Oasis” lazy river that winds you through a tropical forest with waterfalls and features playful otters and marmosets.
Dolphin Encounter
Saving the best for last, Bernie splurged on our add-on “Swim with a Dolphin” experience, which is more of a “pose with a dolphin” experience. Sure, I’ve seen dolphins up close while surfing, but touching, hugging, and looking one in the eyes is something else entirely. And there is a short “ride” with the dolphin, about 10 feet. Dolphins can swim 25 mph and leap 20 feet, but they go slowly and stay horizontal with guests onboard. Yes, these are captive mammals, but most are rescues, and it is an educational experience. We learned that the dolphins are “invited” to participate in the interactions and can and do refuse at their whim. Each dolphin has its own signature sound, like an audio fingerprint, which they use to greet each other and the guests. We also learned that dolphins breathe only through their blow holes. They have 2 stomachs split into 3-chambered like cows and deer, which is needed for digestion because they swallow their food (fish) whole They get their hydration (water) from the fish they eat, and they consume as much as 30 pounds of sushi per day. Their skin is soft and sensitive like ours. Reduced fish populations due to global warming pose a risk to dolphins.
Satisfy your appetite and quench your thirst
How were the food and beverages, you ask? (A tasty and varied breakfast and lunch buffet to satisfy any appetite). The coconut-encrusted salmon was a lunch highlight. Plenty of casual options include burgers, pizza, pretzels, desserts, and hot chocolate chip cookies—oh, my! (I know.) Perhaps fast the day before (and after), lol. And if you like to quench your thirst with “adult beverages,” the upgraded drink package ($40) includes cocktails and is worth it! The colorfully tattooed, friendly bartender added 2 super generous splashes of Grand Marnier to my margarita—decadent and delicious— the best I’ve ever had.
Those who know me know I’m not a theme park or “attraction” person. I’ve never understood those adult Disney World/Land fanatics whose idea of a “best day ever” is a crowded theme park with endless lines and nonstop noise. I detest loud crowds— fortunately, there were none here. It seems they limit the number of guests per day to optimize the experience for everyone.
For couples and families, Discovery Cove is an excellent way to escape it all and spend the day in an engaging tropical paradise. Sure, it’s a simulated experience, but it is executed exceptionally well. When in Orlando, I’d say it’s a must-do. And a must-do again for me. I can’t wait to take my niece and share it with the rest of the family. Guess that makes me a Discovery Cove fanatic.
Practical stuff:
Lockers are available to store your belongings while you explore.
The bathrooms are immaculate and include showers and fresh towels.
There are plenty of beach chairs and towels by the lagoons, but if you prefer a more exclusive experience, you can upgrade to a private cabana.
Meet Lolo and his falconer, Dave Long, the founder of the Catalina Falconry Experience.
I met Dave and Lolo, the Harris hawk, on the beach while enjoying happy hour at a local establishment. Dave was nice enough to come by and tell my friend and me what he and Lolo were up to. He said Lolo is a working bird. His job is to keep the seagulls from camping out around the beach, restaurants, and shops of Avalon. The restaurants on the shore draw both tourists and seagulls in large numbers. When left to their own devices, seagulls will camp out and wait for crumbs and handouts. An excessive amount of seagulls in the area means an excessive amount of seagull poop in the water, which leads to excessive bacteria counts and that stinks for all. I always wondered why the bacteria levels were so high in what looks like crystal clear turquoise waters of Catalina. Now I know.
Lolo the hawk was named after Lolo Saldana, the legendary local barber of Avalon. Lolo’s father came to Catalina in 1919, the same year that William Wrigley, Jr. purchased the island. Born and raised in Catalina, Lolo is 94 years old and still tending shop and cutting hair in his barber shop as he has for last half-century. Watch the documentary about Lolo the barber on YouTube.
If you’d like to see what it feels like to have this majestic Southwestern hawk or other raptors land on your hand and learn about them, check out the Catalina Falconry Experience next time you’re on the island. And if you need a haircut, stop into the barbershop and get your hair cut by a legend.
My adventurous boyfriend, Bernie, had been on a white-water rafting trip with Sheri Griffith Expeditions and loved it. He wanted to share the experience with me, so he booked our Cataract Canyon expedition on the Colorado River. I had some reservations that I didn’t share with him about “surfing” Class 4 and 5 rapids. I didn’t want to dampen his exuberance about the trip. While I’m adventurous, I’m not a risk-taking, adrenaline-seeker type per se. I’ve only experienced an afternoon-long white-water rafting trip with mild Class 2 to 3 rapids. My anxiety did not dissipate after discovering what class 4 and 5 rapids are.
What are Class 4 and 5 rapids, you ask?
Class 4 Long, unpredictable rapids with large waves and narrow passages for intermediate and experienced rafters.
Class 5 Large, gnarly white-water waves with the possibility of rocks and other hazards, including large drops—requires precise maneuvering and advanced whitewater experience.
Pre-trip trepidation
Having reached a “certain age” where mortality looms large, the memories of serious accidents and the long road back from them haunt me. I pick my active adventures carefully. I want to stay happily and vigorously active for as long as possible. White-water rafting Class 4 and 5 rapids is a bit out of my risk zone. In the weeks leading up to the trip, I had a couple of nightmares. I shared my qualms with some of my close friends—primarily about being tossed out of the boat, hitting my head on a rock, being held underwater, and lights out. These things do happen, but infrequently. (Indeed, Bernie shared a story that this had happened a week before his last rafting trip. Probably not the best story to share with me before our trip.) Maybe I should take a more cavalier attitude like my Mother, “When your number’s up, your number’s up.”
Turns out, my number wasn’t up
Among the many exhilarating moments, was the instant where I nearly got pitched from the boat, my legs flying out perpendicular to me like a ragdoll’s—it turns out my number wasn’t up. So I got my feet and entire body wet trying something new and somewhat risky, and had a blast.
Why the 2-night, 3-day Cataract Canyon white-water rafting adventure on the Colorado River?
It was just the right amount of time for me. 3 days without a vigorous workout will make me wangry, and Bernie knew it. Bernie also knew that most of the rapids are in a fairly concentrated area. A 4- or 5-day trip means more downtime. If you enjoy relaxing by the river, it might be the right trip for you. (Of course, how relaxing it is depends on the group.)
We lucked out with a semi-private trip with kindred spirit raftmates—a cool couple from Salt Lake City. Some rafting companies would cancel your reservation or force you to reschedule since small group trips are not profitable. While they asked if we’d like to switch to the 4-day, they let us stick with our 3-day plan. The ratio of guides to guests was in our favor at 3:4, so we received 1st class, VIP treatment even without them knowing that I’d be blogging this review.
We Had the Best Crew
Owen, our boat team captain/river cowboy, was a skilled raftsman. He navigated us head-on into the white-water waves for extra fun while sharing his knowledge and love of the river during the lulls. As we floated down the river, he shared a poem about Floyd Dominy, the man behind the Glen Canyon Dam. The poem, Floyd’s Void, was written by former river runner, legendary Vaughn Short. (I’ve posted the humorous poem on the controversial dam at the end of this blog.)
Owen’s apprentices were Joe and Emma, college students, intellectuals, and athletes. After dinner clean-up, we’d chill out under the stars enjoying the evening and sharing stories
What did you bring? They take care of the food, tents, and sleeping bags. You pack for fun.
Speaking of the food, how was it? I ate better and more frequently than I do at home. We had 3 well-prepared and beautifully presented delicious meals a day, plus snacks and appetizers. (I wish I’d taken pictures of the charcuterie board and the other lovely dishes (pork roast, grilled carrots and mashed potatoes, egg sandwiches and fresh fruit, refreshing Caesar salad wraps, etc. but I was too busy chowing down.)
What were the highlights?
Bouncing through tumultuous rapids while bracing for the next shockingly cold (~50 degrees) splash to face and body
Mini hikes to cool granaries and overlooks
Chilling by the river at sunset was sublime, especially when the big horn sheep (my spirit animal) came down to the water to drink.
Big Horn & Colorful BoulderI Spy a Big HornBig Horn Checking out the RapidsBig Horn Striking a PoseMaking Sure I Caught the Profile Shot
Doing yoga on the river beach both mornings
Dawn and sunsets golden glow on the cliff walls
What’s the scoop about packing out the poop?
To leave no trace and keep the beaches and river as pristine as possible, packing out poop is a necessity. You do your business on a metal “commode” called a “groover’. The earlier versions of the groover would leave telltale indents/grooves on one’s delicate cheeks. The name “stuck,” even though they have regular toilet seats now. At each campsite, the crew places the throne in a private spot with a fantastic view so you can meditate on nature’s beauty as you answer nature’s call. Bernie was answering nature’s call or getting his groove on when he was graced with a big horn sheep visitation on the beach at dawn. How’s that for a memory?!
Oh, and that’s not all.
To top it off, the adventure includes a 40-minute flight back to Moab with Red Tail Adventures in a Kodiak!* You get a bird’s eye view of Moab’s amazing geological wonderland and, if you’re lucky, a documentary-style narrative by the pilot! We took precautionary Dramamine because Bernie said last time there was a bunch of turbulence. Fortunately, there was no turbulence on this flight.
Unfortunately, the Dramamine had an unintended consequence on Bernie.
*(Flight is weather permitting. Otherwise, you’ve got a 2+ hour van ride back to Moab.)
Would I consider another white-water rafter rafting trip with Sheri Griffith Expeditions? Yes-absolutely! The food, service, and entire experience was tops. There are many options on multiple rivers (Colorado, Green, Yampa) via oarboat, motorboat, and kayak. And, I’d request our same crew.
You hear of the devastating depletion of Lake Powell and the Colorado River in the news. Hearing Owen describe how it’s changed in his time on the river and seeing the evidence first hand from air and land was heartbreaking.
Who knows how much longer there will be white-water water rafting trips on this man-strangled river. The only exit ramp left is steep and treacherous and takes hours for the crew to maneuver. Big thank you to Bernie, our crew at Sheri Griffith Expeditions, and Red Tail Adventures for an EPIC adventure!
I’ll close with Vaughn’s Short’s poem, Floyd’s Void from his book Raging River Lonely Trail, Tails Told by the Campfire’s Glow.
Floyd’s Void
There’s a breed of men who sit at their desks
And they like their water tame,
They like to damn the rivers up,
Then give the lakes a name
They do They give the lakes a name.
So give three cheers for the Bureau boys
And a special rah for Floyd
He built his dam and he built it well
And then he said, “In spite of hell, I’m going to fill that void l am I’m going to fill that void”
Now within this void, created by Floyd,
Was a special thing or two,
Reserved for the sight of the filthy rich
And a very greedy few They were A very greedy few.
So give three cheers for the Bureau boys
And a special rah for Floyd
For Floyd did say, “I’ll change this plan,
I’ll open it up for the common man I will I’ll open it up for the common man.”
“What value the trees?
What value the grasses, Compared to the rights of the down-trodden masses?”
Floyd said, “I’ll make it so easy, I’ll make it so simple,
They can all speed their boats over Music Temple How about that?
Speed right over the top of Music Temple!”
So give three cheers for the Bureau boys
And a special rah for Floyd, For now we know beneath the blue
Is a revered spot once seen by few
How sad Before Floyd’s void seen only by few.
To see the Rainbow-aloof-remote you had to hike or you had to float
Denied it was to that jolly old chap
By his houseboat rail in his yachting cap
Oh my! Poor old chap in his yachting cap.
So give three cheers for the Bureau boys
And a special rah for Floyd.
Floyd said, “We’ll put the water there For this deserving old man in his easy chair,
For he’s entitled to his just share He is He’s entitled to his just share.”
If one should insist on making a list
Of the many grandeurs there-There were Gregory, Dungeon, Hidden Passage
And many more I swear Oh Yes!
There were many more I swear. So give three cheers for the Bureau boys
And a special rah for Floyd
He buried them all deep under his lake
But he did it for the people’s sake
He did He did it for the people’s sake.
For the power hungry man with the dollar sign eyes,
Who lights up the neon in the evening skies,
For the poor down-trodden in his speeding boat,
For the jolly old chap in his yachting cap
Who had no water to float Poor guy
He had no water to float.
So give three cheers for the Bureau boys And a special rah for Floyd
Though he buried the Moqui and he shortened the wall,
He did it for the good of all He did
He did it for the good of all!
But there’s a breed of men both hardy and free
Who lie at night on the lonely bars
And there beneath the glittering stars
They dream of TNT They do They dream of TNT.
So give three cheers for the Bureau boys And a special rah for Floyd
He built his dam and though he built it well,
These dreamers swear in spite of hell
They’re going to void Floyd’s void
They are They’re going to void Floyd’s void.
They dream of a mighty boom and a quake.
They dream of a swirl in a vanishing lake.
They dream of a river wild and free,
Freed from its shackles by TNT Sweet bliss
Freed from its shackles by TNT.
Now! Let’s have three cheers for the boys on the bars
Who dream their dreams ‘neath the glittering stars.
Who dream of a wild and a wonderful treat
A house boat running Dominy Falls at a million second feet
Ah yes A house boat running Dominy Falls at a million second feet!
On the Loose Live 