Rats, all the scenery is too “grand” to fit in the featured photo. Please excuse the rough edit.
My route: Up the Big Pine Lakes North Fork Trail (Lakes 1-7 with the spur to Summit Lake), and down via the Black Lake Trail
Length: ~15.5 Miles
Elevation Gain: 3,986 ft
Difficulty: Depends on your fitness level and how far you go; while the elevation gain is gradual, it is significant, constant, and at altitude.
Trail Quality: Excellent, trail runnable! Well-marked and easy to follow!
This trail was a long unrequited love of mine. While I initially explored the area on two occasions decades ago, I never made it to all 1-7 numbered Lakes and Summit Lake and Black Lake until now. I fell in love all over again. It was even more stunning than I remembered.
Take 1
My first ill-fated overnight trip to the Big Pine North Fork Trail resulted in my hiking companion Chip getting altitude sickness and us having to make a hasty retreat. (Of course, we’d done everything you’re not supposed to do – we drove up from sea level to the trailhead at 7,660, charged up the trail 4 miles (gaining ~2k+elevation) to set up the tent near stunning Lake 2 before dark. With no time to eat dinner, we’d munched on fresh rosemary bread on the way up. Once we had the tent up, Chip became violently ill, vomiting multiple times. Meanwhile, his dog Chatz was becoming agitated- hair standing up, growling – this is bear country. I remember worrying about an apple I had in the tent; at the time, I didn’t realize that Chip was creating a bear smorgasbord outside. As Chip became sicker, it became obvious we had to abort our overnighter. It was dire enough that we thought about leaving the tent behind. There were no other hikers or campers around. I wondered how I would manage if I needed to carry Chip down. I worried that Chatz was going to have a run-in with a bear. Luckily, we all made it down the trail safely. As for Chip, predictably, he began to feel slowly but progressively better on the descent and was almost 100% within an hour of driving down from the trailhead. Since then, he has had an aversion to rosemary bread and higher altitudes. Despite being concerned about Chip’s well-being as marched down the trail with our headlamps, I recall being transfixed by the stark, ragged granite peaks glistening in the moonlight, the silence, and stillness. I vowed to return.
Take 2
When I returned a decade or so later, no idea what took me so long, I came with a mountain biking buddy who wanted to charge up the trail to the Palisade Glacier (the largest glacier in the Eastern Sierra). The trail spur to reach the glacier is about a 1/2 mile beyond Third Lake. Given that we prioritized the Palisade Glacier as our day hike destination (19 miles with 4,646 ft of elevation gain) and didn’t get an early start, we barely had time to nod to the 3 spectacular lakes we “ran” by on the way up and down. (If you know me, you know I’m more of an alpine lake person than a glacier person.) Once again, I vowed to return to immerse myself in those lakes’ beauty.
Take 3
Over a decade later (again, I have no idea what took me so long), I returned with my hiking buddy and expert back-country guide, Colin, the most earnest person I know about getting the most out of every hike. And this was no exception. We hit EVERY numbered alpine lake (1-7) plus Summit Lake and Black Lake, with ample time to bliss out at each.
How had I forgotten about the mesmerizing trailside rushing rapids and waterfalls of Big Pine Creek? I’m guessing there must not have been much snowmelt when I went previously.
I’m not going to number the lakes for you. You need to go discover them one by one for yourself. Here’s a sampling:
If you fish, you might get as lucky as the fellow who caught and released this big beauty.
On the Black Lake trail down, we were treated to patches of colorful wildflowers and breathtaking views of the lakes from above.
And there was also time for my yoga pose photobombing and blissful immersion! I vow to return before another decade passes!
And so the sun must set on even the most beloved adventure so another one can begin.
Happy Trails!
Tell me, what trails have you fallen in love with, and do you long to return to?
If you like alpine lakes and friendly trails, you’ll have plenty to choose from, starting at the Crystal Lake Trail and hiking in virtually any direction. Forget peak bagging for the day and enjoy some lake hopping instead. This area wins my record for most lakes and ponds in the least mileage. The more miles you cover, the more lakes and ponds you’ll see in this dazzling area of the Western Unitas. I combined 2 loops going in opposite directions and visited a mind-blowing 32 lakes and ponds in 15 miles—yep, that’s a whopping 2 sparkling lakes per mile. (But whose counting? LOL, the Garmin, thank goodness, as I lost track!) Despite the parking lots being jam-packed, surprisingly enough, the trails weren’t overrun. (Island Lake had the most people—big family groups.) Overall, I saw more lakes and ponds than people—now that’s a perfect scenario.
Distance: Create your own lake-hopping adventure.
Difficulty: Easy to moderate+, depending on your fitness level and altitude acclimation
Altitude: All hikes in the 10k ft range
Getting there: Milepost 25.5 off of the Mirror Lake Highway. (This highway is closed from late October through Memorial Day.)
Notes: Parking and overflow lots fill fast in peak season, especially on the weekends. There are several campsites in the area, but most require reservations. Boondocking and backpacking are options.
Rim2Rim Grand Canyon: North Kaibab, North Rim to Bright Angel, South Rim
Distance: ~25 Miles [I added on a little side-trip.]
Elevation Gain: 4,534 Feet (Elevation loss 5, 850)
Difficulty: Hard, Strenuous
My Stats
Moving time: 7 hours, 57 minutes (Yay, barely sub 8 hours, but I’ll take it at nearly 60 years old for my first R2R.) I don’t think I could have had a better hike.
Start Time: 5:42 AM
Finish Time: 2:53 PM (including 2 stops)
Break Time: 3:04 PM After waiting (impatiently) for a seat on the bench at the Terrace overlook, I took my first real rest stop to soak in the views and put my legs up! Wish they served cocktails here!
I did the thing
So I did the thing, even though I’m not into doing things that are mainstream “things,” and even though last month’s South Kaibab Phantom Ranch hike experience was suboptimal due to crowds and the heat.
Why? Because it’s there and friends were into doing the thing. So, as typical of me, I did the last-minute Lydia thing. Sure, I booked the Jacob Lodge in January when everyone was hyped up, but that was the extent of my commitment. And I joined in on the training/scouting hikes from North Kaibab to Manzanita last October and South Kaibab to Phantom Ranch and up Bright Angel. Naturally, I kept up my vigorous, ongoing backcountry hiking adventures.
It turns out rugged, extended off-trail slick rock explorations and thick sand slog traverses are just the thing to make R2R seem like a walk in the park (The North Kaibab, while rocky and sand-slippery, turns into an easy, smooth trail from Manzanita through Phantom Ranch, and the trail up Bright Angel is also easy footing the entire way—no obstacles, no scrambling.
Of course, it’s not a “walk in the park.” It’s a hike to be taken very seriously.
Less than 1% of the 6 million annual Grand Canyon visitors do Rim 2 Rim, and many prepare for months, some even years.
In fact, R2R is considered one of the most dangerous hikes in the US for many reasons:
Exertion hazards
Cardiac arrest
Dehydration and its opposite, hyponatremia
Risk of rhabdomyolysis: Accumulated muscle trauma causes the break down of myoglobin, a protein that can damage kidneys
Environmental hazards
Heat Stroke
Heat Exhaustion
Hypothermia when temperatures dip at night
Rattlesnakes (The only pink rattlesnake (C. oreganus abyssus) in the world lives in the GC, AZ & UT.)
Hike your own hike
While not recommended, I hiked “the thing”solo. Why? Because I need to hike at a pace that feels right to me. I feel strongly that you can compromise your safety (and enjoyment) if you slow your pace for others. It’s hard to find compatible hikers. My rationale—given that it’s a mainstream trail, there are plenty of hikers and rangers around should an emergency arise. (An instance of “Do as I say, not as I do.”)
On the morning of, I figured I had options—hike out and back or do “the thing.”
The goal was to be at the trailhead at o’dark thirty (4:30 AM ish) to beat the heat. To outpace the heat was critical for me as I found Devil’s Corkscrew unpleasant in the heat of the day and wanted to avoid it. I heard that the “dreaded box canyon” section can be brutally hot, too. I wanted to limit my time in the dark because I have terrible vision and didn’t want to sabotage my hiking prospects with a fall/injury. As it happened, I arrived at first light. While I wasn’t hungry and rarely eat in the morning, I forced myself to chow down half of my turkey sub before hitting the trail. (I do better on long hikes when I have “real”/solid food—usually at the halfway point of a long hike, but I suspected I wouldn’t want anything solid/heavy on this hike’s halfway point.)
I felt strong and made great time down to the bottom of the canyon. Since I’ve done this portion of the trail before, I only took a couple of pictures on the way down when the light caught my eye.
I thoroughly enjoyed the section between Manzanita and Phantom Ranch, which was entirely “new to me.” It was so refreshing and exhilarating, with the stream rushing along the trail and having it all virtually to myself. I stopped to take the most pictures along here. At one point, I looked at my watch and was shocked to see I was doing a 10-minute mile. I didn’t feel like I was running, but I did feel exuberant and euphoric. I was beyond the halfway point and feeling optimistic about doing this “thing!”
I took a slight detour down the Ribbon Falls trail. The bridge was out, which made my decision to pass on this side addition much easier. I didn’t want to add 2 miles roundtrip to my R2R or lose the momentum of my hike.
The only injury I sustained was cactus needles in the back of the forearm when I crouched too low to take a picture.
I was a little obsessed with the miles and my pace, taking pictures of my watch all along the way to track my progress because my watch battery had run out on my last big hike. And if it’s not documented, it didn’t happen, right?
I reached Phantom Ranch (14.29 miles) in 4 hours and 16 minutes with no breaks.
While there were far fewer people there than in April, there was still a line at the canteen for lemonade and food. In retrospect, I might have skipped this, but I didn’t think the handful of people in front of me would take 25 minutes, and the lemonade was a major highlight and perhaps a lifesaver when I hiked down in April. I committed to standing in line, which was building behind me, so it seemed silly to give up my place when it would be “any minute now”…Sigh. Finally, I downed my lemonade and refill, topped off my water, and got back on the trail.
I didn’t feel like taking a break or eating anything, but I forced myself to have a caffeinated cola gu and took out some electrolyte-infused gel blocks to have in my hand. From this point on, after each mile, I would eat a block to celebrate and electrolyte balance.) Back in the day, when I used to run marathons, I’d have a mint to commemorate additional miles after the halfway point.
By the 5-hour mark, I had covered 17 miles.
I arrived at Havasupai Gardens, Mile 20- (4.5+ miles from the top) at a little over the 6-hour mark.
I topped off my water, took a few bites of a Slim Jim, and drank my Gatorade on the way up. It occurred to me that it might be possible to do this “thing” in 8 hours or less. (The average total time, including breaks, is 12-15 hours.) I was pumped and channeling my old triathlete/trail running self.) There was a slight breeze, so the hot spots were blissfully not as hot as in April. I still felt good but the muscle fatigue was starting to build in my legs.
At 23 miles, I was over 7 hours, and for the first time, my pace per mile increased to well over 20 minutes. I was forced to consider the possibility that I wouldn’t make sub 8 hours. Laughing outloud to myself that if I didn’t make sub 8, I would have to do it it again so I better haul ass now! And phew—just barely!
My Inspiration
Did I really hike it solo? Not really; I had my Dad with me. He died years ago, but I carry him in my heart and wear the talisman of his old-fashioned skeleton house key on my necklace, so he comes with me on all my hikes. When I do challenging hikes or activities, I think of him and how his stroke left him paralyzed and confined to a wheelchair for the last decade of his life. I think about how difficult that was for him and it inspires me to stay strong and keep moving.
I also thought a lot about my beloved trail running days with my best trail running partner, Allison Robar. I repeated our mantra from our crazy trail runs , “Light and Easy.” So, both my Dad and Allison were on the trail with me in spirit.
And as mentioned, I felt so exhilirated hiking along the river, taking in the incredible beauty and enjoying my solo connection with nature. It was a transcendent/spiritual experience for me. I was one, vigorously with the Universe.
Of course, I met some cool people along the way too: trailrunners doing it for charity for the 5th year in a row, a buff backpacker named Billy taking on R2R2R. (I nicknamed him Billy Goat in my mind.) And there were others, including 2 “deer” Grand Canyon residents.
What worked for me
I chose light trail running shoes. I feel the terrain doesn’t call for hiking shoes per se. Sure, my feet were a bit battered and tender at the end of the day, but I feel quicker and lighter than I would have with hiking shoes. It’s a trade-off.
I wore knee braces on both knees from the start of the hike. (I have Grade 4 chondromalacia – bone on bone in both knees.)
I brought 1 pole and used it as needed (to help support my knees for large step-downs or step-ups). I like having my hand free, but I think having it helped, and was worth the tradeoff of carrying it.
I felt better after this hike than when I did the South Kaibab to Phantom and up Bright Angel loop. I attribute that to my prophylactic knee bracing, pole usage, and slightly cooler weather,
What I learned
Start at first light (or earlier)
Choose a day where temps at the bottom won’t exceed the low 90s.
Choose a weekday unless you like crowds
Select the North Kaibab to Bright Angel route
Soak your stuff (hat, scarf, shirt) and yourself every chance you get
Take pickle juice and electrolytes to prevent cramps.
Recommendations
Use your long training hikes to discover what’s best for you (nutrition, hydration, equipment, shoes, hiking partners, etc.) Cancel if temperatures are in the mid-90s to triple digits.
Equipment
Use a hydration bladder for hands-free drinking (Camelback or Osprey)
Take a pole or 2
Water filter (Sawyer SP129)
Electrolytes (I had electrolyte-enriched water, Gatorade, and gel blocks.)
Training
As part of your R2R training, if possible, I’d highly recommend doing the North Kaibab to Manzanita or Ribbon Falls hike and South Kaibab to Phantom Ranch and up Bright Angel hike, as well as a couple of hikes from the Grotto to the West Rim in Zion. Hiking those hikes in the GC, you’ll know exactly what you’re getting into and out of at the end of the day. It preps you both physically and psychologically.
Do hikes that simulate the elevation gain, distance, and desert heat factor
Do cross-training—bike, swim, etc. Do yoga & restorative stretching
Do strength training—squats, lunges, leg extensions & curls, calf raises, pushups, pullups, and core work. (Note: training with super heavy weights and low reps can increase muscle bulk, which can be counterproductive for endurance activities.There’s a fine line between gaining strength and lean body mass—more muscle mass requires more oxygen and is heavy—both of which can make climbing, especially at altitude, more difficult. It’s the difference between a bodybuilder and a triathlete. I’ve embodied both body types, and I can tell you from personal experience that lean muscle mass is the best for endurance activities.
Here’s a pic of me backpacking the Grand Canyon in my body building days circa 1998 and me the day after R2R.
Route
I’m aligned with the majority that North to Bright Angel is the way to go. (Unless you’re doing R2R2R, and in that case, you don’t need my advice.)
North Kaibab (Rugged/rocky,sandy and slippery ascent/descent) ~5,781 ft elevation gain
Bright Angel (smooth and scenic trail with some shade)~4,400 ft elevation gain
South Kaibab (exposed trail) ~4,800 ft elevation gain
Logistics: If you’re “only” doing R2R, you’ll need to find a way back to your car on whichever side you left it. Fortunately, there’s the Trans-Canyon Shuttle that runs twice a day ($120pp). Or maybe your fortunate like I was to a have a friend willing to do an out and back hike on N. Kaibab and drive 4 hours over to the South Rim to meet you. Might be better to have a nonhiking friend meet you on the other side or key swap with friends hiking in the opposite direction. I guess that’s motivation for R2R2R, no logistics issues-lol.
Pre-hike dinner was at Jacob Lodge with fellow R2R hikers. The homade blueberry pie and cookies are delicious! Post-hike celebration at the rimside Arizona Steakhouse was delicious with great service and food!
Elevation gain: ~1K (Trail high point is ~2,900 feet.)
Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous depending on your speed and fitness level.
Popular with locals and visitors alike, this trail is a great go-to if you’re in the area and have a limited window for a hike or trail run. You’ll be rewarded with panoramic views and a great workout. I enjoyed jogging the climb so much, I forgot to take pictures-lol, so you’ll have to come see the views for yourself. The trail doesn’t let you scramble to the actual peak, but tops out and then drops you down the other side.
Notes: Parking is free, but limited. Weekdays are less busy than weekends. Pinnacle Peak Park has a visitor center and restrooms, interpretive signs along the trail, and apparently rock climbing routes too. They offer fun activities as well, including moonlight walks, astronomy talks, yoga classes.
Getting there: 26802 N. 102nd Way Scottsdale, AZ 85262 · (480) 312-0990.
Difficulty: Easy, fire road, single track, slick rock
If you can get over the fact that you’re hiking alongside the 15 freeway (within sight and sound), this area still delivers big rewards. Whether you hike or mt. bike it, the panoramic views are stunning in every direction from Pine Valley Mt. to Zion. This area seems to capture the best golden light for spectacular sunsets. There’s more than meets the eye, here, at first it seems like just open landscape, but, there ae many nooks and crannies to explore—washes, mini slots, etc…The cluster of mammoth red, temple like, “Church Rocks” is a fun to explore. Watch for the hawks and swallows that have made this area their home.
Getting there: exit 13 from I-15 N, turn left onto Washington Pkwy and park in the parking spots. Red Cliffs Recreation area: You can access the Church Rocks Trail from the Grapevine Trail, Dino Cliffs Trail or to the south and Prospector to the north.
Note: The 100% exposed so be prepared with adequate water, hat, and sunscreen.
On the Loose Live 