Challenging and strenuous ~16 Miles RT, including some sketchy scrambles, several slick rock traverses, and multiple MILES of exposed DEEP SAND SLOGGING. (Explains why no other humans are present.)
The scariest part was getting my phone wet despite it being in a dry bag and it blacking out. I feared the worst. Not really caring about the phone itself, but the prospect of losing all these hard-earned photos and videos!
My bliss—splendid solitude and immersion in the sublime natural beauty!
Excellent navigation skills, a GPS, First Aid kit, water, and a water purifier are essential for backcountry adventures.
Lucky for me, one of my best hiking buddies is an experienced backcountry guide who is always prepared for every eventually, including me forgetting my water back at home in the fridge.
He always points me in the right direction.
Happy Trails!
PSA: It’s the season for heat exhaustion and heat stroke. Play it safe— avoid hiking in the heat of the day on exposed trails. Wear sun protection—sunblock, hats, and light clothes with SPF and bring plenty of water and a water filter!
Dreaming of spending the day kayaking or SUPing down the cool glistening Colorado River with red rock canyons on either side? Perhaps sharing the adventure with friends and family, or soaking in the serene solitude and beauty with the ducks and herons along the way?
Captain Tim at kayakthecolorado.com can make your dreams come true and all for about $100 per person, including kayak, canoe, raft, inflatable, or SUP rental—less if you want to byo. He’ll pick you up at the dock at Lee’s Ferry and drop you off as far up the river as you like. The total run from Hoover Dam is 16 miles (overnight suggested) and 10 miles from Petroglyph Beach down. Our excursion was 11.5 miles. You can spend the day, or camp out for an overnighter or more. (Get in while the getting is good. Right now, no permits are needed to camp, but there’s a permitting system in the works.) And yes, Tim is a Coast Guard Captain—required because the Colorado River’s fresh water meets salt water at the Gulf of California.
Whether you day trip it or overnight it, it’s an excellent way to immerse yourself in nature and cool off on a hot summer day. Granted there are tour pontoons, outfitter boats, and other kayakers in the mix; even so, there are moments of bliss when it’s just you, the river, the canyon walls, and the reflections on the glassy green surface. I’m guessing if you’re an early bird or prefer off-season (Sept & Oct), you’ll have more solitude and smooth water. There are options to check out petroglyphs, hike, and make use of the pit toilets, if needed, along the way. Please Leave No Trace on the petroglyphs, on the land, or in the river.
Important safety note, storms often come through in the afternoon (another reason to get an early start)—be prepared to wait out the storm. Be safe–keep your life jackets on and keep your dream from turning into a nightmare. The water is about 50 degrees so hypothermia can be a danger as can dehydration and heat stroke.
A quick squall hit us. The wind made it impossible for me to remain standing on my SUP and it was so strong, it pushed me upriver. It’s best to take shelter in a cove and if it’s lightning, get off the water immediately. Unfortunately, I wasn’t near a cove when it hit and had to hold tight to reeds and branches with one hand and my SUP, which was trying to take flight, with the other. The water went from smooth to super choppy, 2ft whitewater waves in a second.
Luckily, the storm cleared nearly as fast as it came.
If you need a rescue, you can flag one of the outfitter boats that are going up and down the river. While it’s easier to handle rough conditions in a kayak than a SUP, I will probably still take a SUP next time. Personally, I prefer the experience and the workout to a kayak.
This adventure was especially cool for us as it would be for anyone who has been up at the Horseshoe Bend and looked down in envy at the kayakers below. As they say, I’ve looked at it from both sides now—both views are 100% worth it.
Difficulty: Easy, except for finding the unmarked trail to the Subway/Keyhole. Finders and seekers are left to their own devices. It’s all part of the adventure. The Subway/keyhole reminded me of St. George’s Scout’s Cave with a nice woodsy approach and a bigger scramble at the end.
An auspicious start to our road trip from St. George—condor sightings at Navajo Bridge. Apparently this is their hangout. A nearby photographer remarked that you can see as many as 60 in the winter. They have numbered tags on them and you can look up their “deets” online.
Back near the trailhead, there’s an option to climb up to a viewpoint. It was worth it. Our timing was good for cactus blooms, especially the ocotillo. The moon made a cameo appearance to add star power to the already dazzling scenery.
Stay tunned for more fun in Sedona and beyond!
Ps. Pro tip/ Captain Obvious tip: Avoid weekends and holidays, especially, holiday weekends) in Sedona. Traffic is HORRENDOUS. (Understatement: 35 minutes or worse to go 5 miles.)
Difficulty: Not easy- most rate it difficult and strenuous due to the distance, elevation gain, deep sand hiking, and exposure. Not for the faint of heart or sand-shy. Four-wheel drive to get to the trailhead is a must!
Elevation Gain: 1,581 ft
A well-hidden gem and one of the most dramatic and magical spots I’ve experienced in Utah. Well worth the considerable effort of driving nearly 30 miles of gnarly fire road and trudging through miles of deep sand. Almost the entire elevation loss/gain is in the first/last 2 miles. Imagine a deep sand slog, followed by a deep sand vertical climb, followed by a steep slickrock vertical climb, and you’ve imagined the final miles of the hike. About 80% of the hike is across exposed, arid desert, so take proper precautions! Dehydration, heat stroke, or worse, are real dangers, especially when the temperatures are high. Neon Canyon is susceptible to flash floods, so check your forecast before you go.
Navigation is a challenge as there is no trail per se. Cairns loosely mark the routes. Route finding, GPS, and backcountry skills are highly recommended.
Check out the magical, mesmerizing reflections at the Golden Cathedral!
Fortunately, the tortuous 4-wheel drive to the trailhead and the deep sand slogging are great crowd deterrents.
On my second visit to this glorious spot, the late afternoon light was dazzling and dramatic.
Getting there, if you dare: From Escalante, drive east on Hwy 12, and turn south/R onto the infamously gnaryly Hole-In-the-Rock Road. Take this unpaved rough road 16.7 tortuous miles and turn left at the sign “Egypt -10 miles”. Believe it or not, the road gets rougher from there. You’ll find the trailhead and its circular dirt parking lot on the left at the 10-mile mark.
With its grand vistas, this short hike is lovely any time of year, but it is a special treat in the Spring when the wildflowers are blooming. I’ve never seen so many varieties in 1 hike! Note it can be a bit of a snow/mud fest in the winter.
Distance: 3.1 Out and back
Elevation: 636 ft
Difficulty: Easy to moderate depending on your fitness level
On the Loose Live 