Hike Report: Grand Views Spoilt by Noisy Crowds
Distance: ~16-17+ Miles (17.7 by my Garmin)
Elevation Loss & Gain: 4,700
Difficulty: Strenuous/hard due to distance, elevation change, sun exposure, heat
Grand views, but hiking the Grand Canyon is a bit of a circus. There are so many (way too many) people on the trails. It really detracts from the experience. (I’ll state the unpopular opinion that they should permit this hike, N.Rim, and Rim-to-Rim.)
I’ve been hiking (lengthy elevation gain hikes) and working out regularly (in anticipation of a possible Rim-to-Rim hike next month). This loop was an excellent training challenge. I have knee “issues”, so I wore knee braces. Fortunately, my knees were fine all the way down to Phantom Ranch (7.5 miles).
My hiking buddy and I arrived at Phantom Ranch after noon. We enjoyed two full 16-ounce glasses of refreshing lemonade (a must-do— $6 with a free refill!) I’d heard a lot about how cool Phantom Ranch is. It is a lovely, natural oasis with shady, gurgling Bright Angel Creek as backdrop and the comforts of campsites, rustic cabins, a restaurant, and a tiny store. Perhaps it’s charming when no one is around, but its charm was completely lost when I was there on an overrun weekend. The line for water refill there was at least 30 people long. I didn’t take any pictures at the ranch itself because I was so overwhelmed by the crowds
After downing 32 ounces of lemonade and a brief munchie break, we started climbing the switchbacks of Devil’s Corkscrew. By this time, the temperature was in the 90s. During the 3.5-mile climb up (1,300 ft), the completely exposed switchbacks, I slowed down, and my heart rate soared 20 points. By this point, my drinking water was the same temperature as my mouth. I couldn’t discern if I was drinking or if my Camelback Tube was twisted. Note, I was wearing a hat and a white shirt to deflect the sun’s rays. I don’t want to imagine what this section would feel like in triple-digit heat, which is common in the summer. I hadn’t acclimated to desert heat hiking yet because it was still Spring.
The second I came into the shade approaching Havasupai Gardens (water was available), my heart rate dropped 10 points. It returned to its active normal after I immersed my feet and my hat in the shallow stream. That immersion and the dragonfly below were the highlights here. We would have taken a longer break to wait for shadows to form on the steep Bright Angel Trail (4.5 miles, 3k elevation gain), but the area was completely overrun by noisy crowds. No pictures other than the dragonfly here, as I was too bummed out by the crowds. For me, it was the antithesis of a pleasant experience in nature.
We left in a hurry, eager to put the crowds behind me. I felt stronger on the climb out than when I hiked North Kaibab to Manzanita Springs out and back. My knees started complaining about a mile and a half from the top—poles might have helped.
After enjoying a celebratory ice cream at the top, my friend and I decided to “walk” to the parking lot, adding another 2.5 miles. That was the straw that broke the camel’s back for me. At about the 2-mile mark, both of my legs viciously cramped and seized, throwing me to the ground and rendering me helpless for at least 5-minutes, and hobbled for the remaining half-mile and day. If that had happened on the way up, I would have been incapacitated and might have required assistance. Scary. Why did it happen? Hard to say, but likely due to dehydration and lack of electrolytes. I had trouble drinking when I was overheated because my water was hot. next time, if there is one, I will bring metal containers to keep the water/electrolyte liquid cool.
Notes: Don’t underestimate the challenges of hiking in the Grand Canyon North or South, or Rim-to-Rim, especially in the summer. Even without extreme heat to factor in, hiking here is a serious undertaking. Don’t overestimate your abilities. Get as much elevation and heat training in as you can. Know your limits, hike with a buddy, and be prepared with adequate water, water purifier, electrolytes, and food. I wore trail running shoes with good tread. I prefer lighter footwear to heavy hiking boots and like having my hands free. The trails are mostly well-groomed. I did not use poles, but I might take them if I do Rim to Rim. Since I don’t do well drinking warm water, I’ll take on the extra weight of metal containers for cooler water next time.
“END” Notes
About a dozen people die in the Grand Canyon every year. The first cause of death is airplane and helicopter crashes (this comes in as first as it reflects the 128 deaths from the pre-FAA 1956 commercial airline collision). The second common causes are falls, jumps from, or driving off cliffs/ledges, and the third most common cause is due to the Grand Canyon’s extreme environmental hazards, including intense heat (temps can reach 120 degrees) dehydration/overhydration, cardiac arrest, flash floods, and lightning strikes.
Happy Trails & Safe Hiking!
On the Loose Live 