Worshiping Mother Nature: Golden Cathedral, Escalante, UT

Distance: ~9-10 miles RT Out & Back

Difficulty: Not easy- most rate it difficult and strenuous due to the distance, elevation gain, deep sand hiking, and exposure. Not for the faint of heart or sand-shy. Four-wheel drive to get to the trailhead is a must!

Elevation Gain: 1,581 ft

A well-hidden gem and one of the most dramatic and magical spots I’ve experienced in Utah. Well worth the considerable effort of driving nearly 30 miles of gnarly fire road and trudging through miles of deep sand. Almost the entire elevation loss/gain is in the first/last 2 miles. Imagine a deep sand slog, followed by a deep sand vertical climb, followed by a steep slickrock vertical climb, and you’ve imagined the final miles of the hike. About 80% of the hike is across exposed, arid desert, so take proper precautions! Dehydration, heat stroke, or worse, are real dangers, especially when the temperatures are high. Neon Canyon is susceptible to flash floods, so check your forecast before you go.

Navigation is a challenge as there is no trail per se. Cairns loosely mark the routes. Route finding, GPS, and backcountry skills are highly recommended.

Check out the magical, mesmerizing reflections at the Golden Cathedral!

Fortunately, the tortuous 4-wheel drive to the trailhead and the deep sand slogging are great crowd deterrents.

On my second visit to this glorious spot, the late afternoon light was dazzling and dramatic.

Getting there, if you dare: From Escalante, drive east on Hwy 12, and turn south/R onto the infamously gnaryly Hole-In-the-Rock Road. Take this unpaved rough road 16.7 tortuous miles and turn left at the sign “Egypt -10 miles”.  Believe it or not, the road gets rougher from there. You’ll find the trailhead and its circular dirt parking lot on the left at the 10-mile mark.

Happy Trails!

Hats off to Hank, but keep ‘em on for the Honaker Trail, Goosenecks State Park, Mexican Hat, UT

Distance: ~5 Miles RT, Out & Back (Down and Up)

Elevation gain: ~1,800

Difficulty: Somewhat strenuous due to consistent descent and ascent, some slippery footing and scrambling—minimal “exposure” as far as danger level, but 100% sun exposure. Not for the weak of knees or heart. Poles recommended.

Named after its creator, Henry Honaker, this rugged route dates back to the 1890s and the heyday of Utah’s Wild West gold rush. Thank him for this scenic, cliff-hugging trail that originated as a supply route from the San Juan River to the rim ledges. While the gold rush here was short-lived, the trail has been a long-lived attraction for scientists, geologists, recreational hikers, and rafters. The dramatic geological formations date back 300 million years and are a source of fascination for all.

As you descend the trail, you may note how the rock colors and their composition change. As you pause to take in the panoramic views, catch your breath, and gulp some water, keep your eyes open for fossils (including crinoids, brachiopods, and various trace fossils). In the dry and sometimes unforgiving desert, it’s hard to imagine there was a time when all of this was underwater.

The yellow numbers that you’ll see painted on the cliffs are remnants from a 1952 field symposium on the rocks of the Honaker and Paradox Formations, not a tabulation of the numerous switchbacks though they may seem so.

While it’s always a reward to jump in a lake or a river on a hike, the silty San Juan River may refresh you but likely won’t dazzle you with her mud-colored water.

The Honaker Trail is a great, off-the-beaten-track adventure hike and a must-do for geology buffs. We only encountered a couple of rafters exploring the bottom reaches of the trail.

Notes: Of course, you must drive into Goosenecks State Park itself to enjoy the main panoramic viewpoint while you’re there. The feature photo is from that viewpoint as are these next two.

On a clear day, you can see Monument Valley in the distance. Bring an excess of water & Gatorade—what you think is too much will be just right. This trail is completely exposed, so get an early start if you’re going in the summer and be equipped with sunscreen, a hat, and EXTRA water. (Yes, I know I mentioned that already.)

Getting there: There are no signs for this trailhead. It’s marked only by a huge cairn pyramid at the start of the trail and at the bottom. At Goosenecks State Park, take the dirt road at mile marker 3 (before the entry gate) and stay left when it forks. A 2WD car can make it to the first unmarked “parking area,” and it’s just  .25+ to the trailhead from there. Otherwise, a 4 WD, high-clearance vehicle can take you to a “parking area” closer to the trailhead.

It’s a scenic drive as well.

Oh, and here’s a pic of Mexican Hat along the way. Beauty everywhere you look.

Happy Trails!