adventure-travel – On the Loose Live

Distance: ~33 Miles Elevation Gain: 1,047 Ft Terrain: A mix of road & off-road

After a delicious buffet breakfast at the Octant Hotel, we saddled up, donned our new “Top Bike Tours Portugal” jerseys, and began our first day’s biking adventure.

We followed our wonderful guide, Pedro, [Top Bike Tours Portugal], into the lovely countryside via a maze of paved roads and gravel, dirt, and sandy paths. Encountering engaging vistas and a surprise around every corner.

At our morning rest stop, we were treated to our first glimpses of street art. The sea breeze foreshadowed that we would soon be at the captivating coast!

Soon we would be pedaling alongside the sea and taking scenic breaks to immerse ourselves in the rugged, ravishing natural beauty around each corner. Other than sharing it with a few hikers, we had much of the breathtaking scenery all to ourselves.

I kept thinking, “Wow, this must be the best part”, and it would just keep getting better and better. As would each moment, hour, and day of this epic bike adventure!

We enjoyed a leisurely lunch stop in the charming, fishing village of Porto Covo (population 1,400), where white-washed houses and restaurants with brilliant blue trim perch atop a hill overlooking the raging Atlantic Ocean and the rugged Alentejo western coast. I enjoyed the freshest tuna salad drizzled with the delicious local olive oil, and my friend had clams in garlic butter. (Fortunately, he was generous enough to share a couple of those sumptuous morsels.)

We would see many more hikers in the days that followed as our biking route encompassed segments of the Fisherman’s Trail, which is part of the Rota Vicentina, a network of hiking and biking routes throughout southwest Portugal, spanning the beautiful Alentejo and Algarve regions. The Fisherman’s Trail is a 78-mile-long coastal trail that’s described as one of the most stunning coastal trails in the world. (Indeed, I’m convinced!) Known for its spectacular seaside scenery, including dramatic cliffs, sandy beaches, and charming fishing villages, the route follows the wild Atlantic coastline from Porto Covo to Cabo de São Vicente.

After our tasty lunch, it was onward towards Vila Nova de Mil Fontes (population ~6k). However, first came a steep, rocky descent and a short dirt climb, which the e-bike group navigated with a little trepidation. Most had not ridden off-road before, and many were caught off guard by the “technical” challenges we encountered.

The view from our room at the Vila Nova de Mil Fontes Beach Hotel did not disappoint. The village was founded in 1486 by a royal charter granted by King João II and is located where the Mira River meets the sea.

After a refreshing post-ride libation (a Caipirinha for me), we took a relaxing stroll on the beach. (I developed my taste for this quenching cocktail on my cycling trip in Cuba and was delighted to find that they’re popular in Portugal too.)

Meet the friendly, well-fed feral felines of Vila Nova de Mil Fontes. (Say that 5 times – lol!)

Fun to share this awesome adventure with my yogi and hiking friend, Bradley! Here’s before and after cleaning up for dinner, and officially in full vacation mode! (Things came together as they often do for me, “Last minute Lydia”, about 2 weeks prior to “take-off”, and Bradley spontaneously jumped in to join in the fun. (Luckily, we were able to get in some saddle time prior as the rides were more challenging than advertised…Let’s just say that 16% grade hills were not an anomaly.)

That evening, we enjoyed our group dinner at a charming restaurant where we both “accidentally ordered” a fish casserole. Each individual serving was enough to feed a family!

On our after-dinner walkabout along the cobblestone streets of the old town village, we discovered the cliffside fortress/castle (built in 1599 by Filipe II of Portugal to fend off the constant pirate attacks on the village). We’d seen it earlier from the beach below, but it was so much more enchanting at night.

What an amazing day! I was so excited to see what tomorrow would bring.

Happy Active Adventures from Vila Nova de Mil Fontes!

If you missed my previous arrival day post and it’s not obvious at this point, yes, I wholeheartedly recommend Top Bike Tours Portugal. If you’re thinking about booking a tour with them, don’t hesitate! And please tell them I sent you. If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to message me.

[Feature Photo Credit: Kirk Hamilton]

On Day 1, we took a short, easy bike cruise through the neighborhoods of Vedado, Nuevo Vedado, and Miramar. So many sights to see. We packed in as much as we could, including the gorgeous architecture, the embassy district, historical monuments, a forest oasis, ancient town squares, and so much more. I apologize in advance for the poor photo quality—all were taken on the fly, but hopefully, they will still give you a good feel for the spirit of Havana.

All along the way, we saw art flourishing everywhere from sculptures to colorful building tiles and whimsical street art. Interesting that a communist country would have so much exuberant individual expression.

Plaza de la Revolución / Revolution Square

Part of the wave of architectural and infrastructure works carried out by the Batista government, this square features a monument to Jose Marti, and steel memorials to the two most important deceased heroes of the Cuban revolution Che Guevara (Fidel’s right-hand revolutionary man, until he wasn’t) with the quotation “Hasta la Victoria Siempre” (Ever Onward to Victory) and Camilo Cienfugus(Fidel’s left-hand revolutionary man, until he wasn’t), with the quotation “Vas bien, Fidel” (You’re doing fine, Fidel).

Havana Forest

What a wonderful surprise to come around a suburban corner, cross a bridge over the Almendares River, and suddenly be enveloped by the lush green canopy of the Havana Forest, a protected tropical oasis between the municipalities of Plaza and Playa.

Hotel Nacional

A couple of us stopped at the Hotel Nacional for some refreshments. Built in 1930, the Hotel Nacional is a national monument and part of UNESCO’s Cuban National Memory.

Strolling with the peacocks and other tourists through the lovely grounds, enjoying the expansive view of the Malecon and the shimmering seas, you’d never guess this grand hotel’s dark and bloody history.

October 2-3, 1933, The Battle of the Hotel Nacional of Cuba

A bloody siege known as the Battle of the Hotel Nacional of Cuba was led by Sergeant Fulgencio Batista against the previously high-ranking military officers who were regrouping in the hotel. During the battle, thirty Batista soldiers were killed on the grounds, as were 2 of the high-ranking officials during the battle. Batista’s soldiers subsequently killed the remaining high-ranking officials from the previous government.

1946 Havana Conference Did you know that from the beginning of the 20th century until the Revolution in 1959, Havana was known as the playground of US Mafia bosses? (I didn’t.) From the 1940s, Mobsters made the Hotel Nacional their home away from home as they built their casinos and hotels and conducted their “business” in Cuba. Arranged by Charles “Lucky” Luciano, the hotel hosted the infamous Havana Conference in 1946. The US Mafia and the Sicilian Cosa Nostra leaders met to discuss their “business interests” in Cuba and around the world.

If you’re getting the impression that Cuba’s history was tumultuous, you’d be spot on. Watch the eye-opening Cuba Libra series on Netflix to learn more about Cuba’s history (and America’s questionable and controversial involvement).

In the afternoon, we enjoyed a walking tour exploring 4 of Havana’s 5 colonial city squares/centers—a must-do. Bustling with tourists and locals alike, you can immerse yourself in the history as you explore the cafés, restaurants, and galleries and admire artisans’ wares to the spicy soundtrack of street musicians.

Plaza Vieja, located in the central part of the Old Havana district, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was first built in 1559 and boasts gorgeous buildings dating back to the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries.

Plaza de la Catedral The Catedral de la Havana was built in the 18^th century. One of 11 Catholic cathedrals in Cuba, it is best known for housing Christopher Columbus’ remains until the end of the 19^th century, when they were moved to Seville.

Plaza de Armas is the oldest and largest square in Old Havana.

Plaza de San Francisco de Asis was the colonial center back in the 16^th century. It was fully restored during the 1990s.

The food did not disappoint (understatement). Breakfast fruits. Lunch was the traditional dish of Ropa Vieja, shredded meat cooked with onions, peppers, olives, tomato sauce, and spices like cumin and oregano. For dinner, I indulged in a grilled lobster. All were delicious, especially the lobster – what a treat (that I would have to repeat, threepeat, and I confess too much)!

After taking in as many sights as we could, it was time to hop on the bus with our bikes and head to our next destination, the beach resort town of Varadero. To be continued…

Happy adventure traveling!

Tag: adventure-travel

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