Cuba Cycling Adventure Postcard Series: Off-the-beaten-path, pedaling to the rhythm of Cuba’s heartbeat

A yellow-breasted bird shines bright against emerald rainforest leaves, returning my gaze from the hand-painted coffee cup I bought from an artist in Cuba. As I sip my coffee, memories of my cycling adventure spin in my mind’s eye, a dazzling kaleidoscope of indelible impressions.

I was completely unplugged from the outside world for 7 days (my choice), which allowed me to immerse myself completely in every waking moment as we cycled off the beaten path and pedaled to the rhythm of Cuba’s heartbeat.

The sights—stone fortresses, historical monuments and statues, charming town squares, gorgeous architecture, and the art—everywhere— paintings, sculptures, street tiles, street art. The vibrant colors wrapped in the Caribbean island’s tremendous natural beauty— picturesque bays, verdant mountain ranges with hidden tropical waterfalls and cenotes, and sugar white sand beaches enticing you into the sparkling turquoise sea.

The sounds—the medley of sax, bass, drums, and guitar in the parks, at cafes, restaurants, and bars, the constant clip-clop of horses’ hooves, the rev of mopeds, the persistent punctuation of horns like exuberant exclamation marks to the improvised salsa music. And the contrasting silence of the countryside and the mountains, broken only by a bird call, the whisper of the wind through the trees, the rush of a waterfall, the gurgle of a stream.

The flavors—From sweet to savory and everywhere in between– fresh fruits and juices daily (mini-bananas, pineapple, guava), refreshing post-ride libations like Mojitos and Caipirinhas, and creamy Pina Coladas, delicious entrees like freshly grilled lobsters (my fav), fresh fish, and traditional, hearty dishes like Rope Vieja, beans and rice, pork in very variety (rips, chops, and morsels), crispy snacks of garlic and oil plantains. I know! Are you salivating yet?

The places: Old Havana, the seaside resort town of Varadero, Matanzas known as the “Venice of Cuba,” Santa Clara, home of the Che Guevara Museum and Memorial, the “colonial jewel” of Trinidad, Cienfuegos “The Pearl of the South,” and the infamous Bay of Pigs.

The people: A great group of people from our knowledgeable and personable Cuban Adventure’s guide Rayner, Alejandro our attentive bike mechanic and speedy rescue cyclist (story later-maybe), and “Manbey,” our bus driver who might be better nicknamed MacGyver to the 2 well-traveled couples from Canada (Mike and Jan, Kirk and Heather), my smart and fun roommate Vanessa from Denver, our casa hosts, and those we encountered along our journey, including 2 crazy old German gents who were solo cycling the entire island and kept popping up much to our surprise (we biked and bussed– they were cycling 100%).

The insights—into the history, politics, culture, and spirit and some of the mindsets of the Cuban people.

Hands down, this was one of the best adventure travel trips I’ve taken for many reasons. Hopefully, some of those reasons are already apparent. It was a spontaneous decision (like most of mine) made just 2-weeks before departure—everything lined up perfectly. With low to no expectations, the entire experience blew me away—outstanding, fantastic, fabulous!  

In the following days/weeks, I’ll share some highlights and attempt to capture the experience here in this postcard series. The best part is that I get to relive it allas I go.

Arrival

Walking through Jose Marti Airport’s exit doors into the warm tropical night was like arriving through a time portal into the past. From the backseat of the taxi, I was mesmerized by the blur of classic cars and horse-drawn carriages—racing side-by-side towards Old Havana. (Since the Cuban revolution (1953-1959), when Batista was driven out and Fidel Castro took power, there has been a ban on cars and other imports from America. Not to mention the difficulty of getting gas imports.) Here are a few scenes from my first night in Havana. I know the pictures are a bit blurry, and so was I after a long day of travels. I promise they’ll get better.

It was lights out after a quick nightcap and bite in Old Havana with my new roommate, Vanessa.

Throughout this postcard series, I’ll sprinkle in miscellaneous history, interesting facts, and some sobering statistics.

Jose Marti is the Cuban poet and philosopher who led the fight against the Spanish for Cuba’s Independence

~60,000 classic cars in Cuba (~50% from the 1950’s, ~25% from the 1940’s, ~25% from the 1930’s)

Only ~2% of Cubans own cars

Average monthly income range for 55% of the population is $50-$234, $600-$2,808 annually.

(https://www.statista.com/statistics/1376640/average-income-households-cuba/)

51% of Cubans report not having enough $ (https://www.statista.com/statistics/1376640/average-income-households-cuba/)

Free healthcare and education

I highly recommend putting Cuba on your “to-do” list whether you “do it” on a bike or otherwise. Here’s a direct link:  Cuba Travel Services | Cuban Adventures (cubagrouptour.com) and a 10% off code to use: YUMAFRIENDS.

Happy Adventure Travels!

Wonderful Mount Washburn, Yellowstone National Park

Distance: 7.3 Miles RT (According to my Garmin, 6.8 miles according to Alltrails, and 5 miles according to the sign in the parking lot-lol.)

Difficulty: Easy (depending on fitness level and altitude acclimation), gradual ascent and descent on an old service road.

Elevation Gain: 1,332 ft over 3.5 miles to reach the fire lookout at the peak.

Wonderful Mount Washburn, at an elevation of 10,219 feet, is the most popular summit hike in Yellowstone National Park.  It’s easy to see why. Named in 1870 after Henry D. Washburn, the Washburn–Langford–Doane Expedition leader, the hike features panoramic views from the start, wildflowers, wildlife sightings (only chipmunks and a grouse for me), a fire lookout tower with interpretive exhibits, an enclosed observation deck, and restrooms. Bagging this peak is relatively easy as you ascend gradually on an old service road.

Notes: No dogs. Be prepared for rapid weather changes and afternoon thunder and lightning storms, especially in the summer. Be bear alert and bring bear spray just in case. (They love this trail too.)

South & North Trailhead options: The South Trailhead is located along the Grand Loop Road between Canyon and Tower (7-mile route). To access the north trailhead (shorter route with a little less elevation ~5 miles), take the unpaved Chittenden Road 1.3 miles to the trailhead. From the top, I spied a couple more trails to explore, but alas, I ran out of time.

Happy Trails!

Picturesque Point Sublime Via Artists’ Point: An Awesome Yellowstone Must-Do

Distance: ~2.7 with optional add-ons

Elevation gain: ~350 ft

Difficult: Easy

Enjoy spectacular views and leave the crowds behind in the parking lot at Artist’s Point. Fortunately, few people venture beyond the overlook. In fact, of all national park visitors, it’s estimated that only 10% ever leave the comfort of their car or camper, and of those, only 5% take to the trails. Unbelievable to me, but I’m certainly not mad about it. 😊 Most agree (as do I) that the views are more sublime along this gentle rim-side trail than at the actual destination/dead end of “Sublime Point”.

Most agree (as do I) that the views are more sublime along this gentle rim-side trail than the actual destination/ dead end of “Sublime Point”. It’s mesmerising to take in the multicoloured canyon walls that plunge 1,200 feet below and frame the turquoise, rushing Yellowstone River and waterfall. It’s obvious why photographers and painters and ordinary folks like me can’t get enough of this awe inspiring landscape.

Don’t believe me? Perhaps these pictures will convince you.

Fun Fact: The Grand Canyon of Yellowstone is nearly 25 miles long and up to 4,000 feet wide, and 1,200 feet deep.

Happy Trails!

Above Zion Via Ferrata—Local Adventure With Splendid Views!

Via ferrata translates to “iron way”. A via ferrata is a route along a mountain or cliff face consisting of steel safety cables alongside thin steel rungs that you climb like a ladder. Simpler than rock climbing and canyoneering, it makes it possible for people to traverse cliffs and mountains that would otherwise be inaccessible. You wear a harness with 2 clips that you hook and unhook to the cable (one at a time) as you go.

Via ferratas can be traced back to the mid-19th century (presumably when they used iron to construct them instead of steel). During the First World War, the Italian Army used them to get troops through otherwise untraversable portions of the Alps. Via ferratas have since become popular as a safer, simpler option to rock climbing that still affords adventure seekers a thrill and adrenaline rush.  (Especially if you’re scared of heights like me.)

My boyfriend, Bernie, invited me to join him on this local via ferrata adventure. I hesitated for a second as videos of the dizzying and daunting via ferratas of Europe played in my head. But the appeal of Zion backcountry’s rarely seen, dramatic vistas “pushed me over the edge,” so to speak. Not to mention, I enjoy trying new things, getting out of my comfort zone, and challenging myself in new ways.

As it turns out, the Above Zion via Ferrata is quite tame. They’ve designed the course to be accessible for anyone “ages 8 to 80”. They equip you with the harnesses, clips, and helmets and a guide.Theoretically, if you can climb a ladder, you can handle it as long as your fear of heights doesn’t paralyze you. Views into this remote back canyon on the outskirts of Zion are splendid. The course is short, with 2 “exciting” sections and more trail walking than via Ferrata for a total of 2 miles roundtrip. A group ahead kept us waiting for them to finish at various junctures. The total moving time my Garmin recorded was 1 hour and 10 minutes. They describe it as a 4-hour adventure. (More like 2 hours at best, unless there are people in your group who really take it slow or freeze.) Sure, you can spend more time enjoying the views at the major lookout spots (as long as a group isn’t coming up behind you). There was a lovely waterfall in the distance, but we never got close enough for a good picture. I was hoping we’d go under it.

I’m sure good guides are hard to find, but… Ours was 20 minutes late and had a propensity to talk about himself. He missed one of the via ferrata sections and didn’t take us back to do it. At the end, he “slow walked” us on the trail and then forgot the combination to the gate while we waited in the side-by-side to get back to the starting point. (Actually, I got out and hiked up and was nearly there by the time they came by.) While he was nice enough to take pictures of us on his phone, he forget to send them.

Yep, that all happened. To be fair, it was the guide’s second day. Guess they are still working out the “kinks”. Cost was $130 per person to join a group. (We got lucky with a private experience.) Not the smoothest run operation, but it made for a fun morning, and a good introduction to via ferrata.

Kolob Canyon road views on the way are always nice too.

Happy Trails!

Chasing Waterfalls: Hidden Haven, a Hidden Gem, Brian Head, UT

A short, shady stroll with some trail washout and a little scrambling at the end delivers a wonderful waterfall reward.

Great to top off another hike, take a roadtrip leg stretch, or have a lovely picnic spot.

Stay tuned for the videos.

Getting there:

The trailhead parking lot is located on the north side of SR-143, otherwise known as the Brian Head-Panguitch Lake Scenic Byway. Enjoy the entire scenic route if you can.

Happy Trails!